I have just bought the ArduPilot Mega 2560 Full Kit... plus the Triple Axis Magnetometer HMC5883L. I should have it built over the weekend.. then i'm off to a my mates machine shop, and i'll make the splitter plate for the lower frame onto which i am going to fit the Ardupilot. the magnetometer i'll put on the tail as suggested. I am going to use my X-cell Razor 600E. For those that dont know its around the 50 size nitro heli.
Do i need to buy any other sensors i.e. the Sonar... i can fly a helicopter all day long but this is my first time flying one with stabilisation so any tips would be gratefully appreciated.
If this works well then i am going to try and use it on my x-cell gasser. i can get up to 20 minute flights with this. But i think for the time being a battery 600 is the way to go.
i'll post some pictures when i have it all together.
Yeah, I set the pitch and roll to 2500 on my 600. What have you done with the collective? That should also be reduced. The range there is actually quite small. Something on the order of 1400 min to 1600 max.
I used the "Manual" button in the Heli setup in Mission Planner to set the collective travel. I could be wrong but it appears to map the full PWM range of the tx stick to a PWM range which is specified in this setup procedure. I ended up with about +10 and -5 blade pitch at full stick extents which is what I was shooting for with a pitch gauge.
For the cyclic, I also reduced the travel for pitch and roll in my Tx. I suppose I could have just reduced the max pitch and roll in Mission Planner instead, but this seemed easier and I could change it on the fly if I need.
It's better if you don't use your transmitter to reduce the range. The reason is that you need apply full right rudder and hold down the throttle in order to "arm" the motors. "arming" the motors is important only in that it resets the barometer altitude.
Actually, I believe it also stores the Home location. Otherwise RTL will bring the helicopter back to wherever it first got a GPS lock. That could mean the picnic table you sat the heli on while preparing to fly... Not really what you want to do!
I've only adjusted the range for pitch and roll in the Tx. I always arm, so I've made sure to keep the yaw at full range, and only play with parameter tuning.
Also, what is the best procedure to adjust yaw speed? If I adjust the rate P term will I end up with shaking/oscillations? Or is there another way, since my yaw is just a bit slow and I'd like to speed it up?
Technically we should have a separate parameter which controls what the input from the stick means vs how fast the APM tries to correct errors in angles...but we don't...so the best way is to increase the stabilize Yaw P value (not the rate).
With the latest release, do i still need to trim the APM using the channel 7 config, or can i now use the trims on my TX,
Been away for a while, but am going to meet up with Martin and have a go at trying to get somewhere close to getting Loiter working as the ALT hold is now pretty well nailed.
How is everyone?
Hey Malcolm, yes, you still need to use Ch7 to trim. I don't think you'll ever be able to use the radio trims. It's just not how the whole thing is structured.
The only other way i can see to do it is make a 2 axis adjustable plate for the APM, but yet again this involves more weight etc,
Ok but... why bother? Just use the auto trim function.
Not sure when you stopped flying, but I actually fixed it. It wasn't working at all before, now it does.
Could you point me towards the wiki page so i can see how it works...
Exactly what i thought not worth the time and effort....
I know the issue i had last time was me putting in trim on the TX.....