I started working on this just before the JD-IO board became available locally, so I didn't need any more "LED hardware". But it's not really needed if you only want an indication similar to the LEDs on the APM board.
Follow the instructions in the wiki for compiling the main APM code exactly and you'll be fine. It is certainly going to be much easier than using the JD board if all you want is low-current status LED(s).
You can hard-code the HDOP threshold to minimize code if desired. Note that HDOP is an integer, and you need to "divide by 100" first i.e. if you want to light the LED for HDOP better than 1.2, here are some code fragments:
#ifdef HDOP_LED // define it in APM_Config.h
if ( g_gps->hdop < g.hdop_led_threshold )
// or if ( g_gps->hdop < HDOP_LED_THRESHOLD ) for a hard-coded threshold
digitalWriteFast(HDOP_LED, COPTER_LED_ON); // turn on HDOP LED
#define HDOP_LED_THRESHOLD 120 // 1.20 or better HDOP lights the LED
#define HDOP_LED COPTER_LED_4 // or whatever copter LED you want
You need to set up hdop_led_threshold in the Parameters code if you want to vary it with MP. But if you can usually do MP in the field, you really don't need this status LED... I set it up so this HDOP LED is only updated before Arming, because I assumed once armed you've made the decision to go already. [I try to minimize the amount of any of my code running when flying if possible, because I don't know how tight things are time-wise, but I read it's getting "tight".] After arming it behaves like any other "copter LED".
On all my quads I have 2 laminated business cards. I do not fly auto my failsafe is my bent 2.4ghz antenna and the 2 times I thought I was losing signal I just put it straight and raised it 10" and had full range again. Never failed me and I get 1300m or so that way. I almost lost a quad last week. Why I do not fly over private property, people (except spotters x2) or roadways because %$% happens and as a motorcyclist I do not want to be hit by a lost Edsel dji phantom in the hands of a novice like me hitting rth. Sent my 2.5 for diagnosis and testing of sensors so it is the $30. FF FC w/baro till I sort out the arducopter functions. Simple mode for LOS save would have helped in this case....check your gear lesson day. No way return to home could handle motor fade, structural failure well or wind & loss of gps. People should fly in thier backyard, 100m field until they stop crashing before going out of LOS distance imo.
Paul Hansel little Grettle girl, your an attitude freak and should get some councilling, completely read your hate into my post. Loser, my APM 2.5 lasted 2 friggin weeks and lost all control so ya trusting it not knowing how to fly first is a recipe for a USA wide ban. Enjoy it if your there mr nice guy.
Get a life these are stil rc toys with Arduino not proprietary mil spec drones.
- I bought an APM 2.5 with Ublox and I was here to get help but idiots like you make this place look real bad.
Paul, the only emotion here is what you bring with you. I can assure you that I am neither confused nor angry. I can assure you that I have read the manual. It has long been my experience that simply because there are tips in the manual, that is no assurance that any particular member here has applied those same tips. In sharing about your single BEC, I did not notice you mentioning your second BEC. I'm glad you are reading the manual. That was the essence of my recommendation to Willie, and to many new fliers who switch to Auto, Loiter, or RTL without having read the manual in detail, and without having conducted systematic flight tests first. If there is anything about which I am confused, it is why such a rational, helpful recommendation would be met with your jibs, jabs, and insults such as those that Brian chose to fling. It will have to remain a mystery, however, as I am unsubscribing from this thread.
is it possible to operate the 433MHz kit from http://rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=837 in the USA without a ham radio licence?