I read it in another post that basically you need to cut two of the pins that connect between the APM2 and the GPS board. I haven't tried it myself.
Here is a pic of a simple mod, you have to cut the TX trace it is the one on the end. You cut with a razor knife the solder were the GPS conects to the board. Hope the pic shows it enough. When you cut the TX trace the buss will not have to share the signal so you can plug your Aux GPS in the open port and it workd great. If you want to go back to the original on the Daughter board you just have to re-solder the TX trace.
thats great! thankyou for the infomation
The picture is very very small and can't really see. Did you just cut off the first connector between the GPS and the board?
Here this might help.. Its the TX
Ah, I see. Thank you!
So it's the last 2nd pin in the picture. Hmm... if it gets a 3D fix, it would send out a 3D fix signal as well. But I guess it should be ok since if this GPS would get a 3D fix, the external one would have gotten a 3D fix as well.
I have never tried this? but if you are going to do it you may as well know what you are cutting..
I'm not going to cut it now. I tried to mount the APM2 under the copter yesterday, but there are other issues that make it not feasible. I'm going to mount it back outside and use the GPS again.
I would consider your anti-vibration mounting, as it might not have been good enough. I'll be taking another crack at it shortly.
I'm going to mount it back to where it was before, right behind the main shaft. But this time, I'll have a heavy copper plate attached to the bottom of the circuit board, then sit on top of my favorite anti-vibration sheet. I'll also make the bottom plate a bit bigger, so that I can mount a cover to cover the entire APM2 to avoid the direct down wash pressure.
Wouldn't it be better to cut the power trace? If you cut the TX line the unit will still be powered and drawing current from your battery.