After I had a few problems with the standard power module from 3DR and the ones from Hobbyking, like falling off resistors (overheated) and burned out BEC from voltage spikes, I finally designed my own PM modules. The sensor boards are compatible to Pixhawk, APM, Pixhawk lite, AUAV-X2, DroTek und CUAV Pixhack.
These modules are based on a true hall current sensor, so heat is no more an issue !!!
The sensors boards are able for continuous current of 100A for HS-100-V2 and 200A for HS-200-V2 (no time limit), the maximum over current is 1200A@25'C and 800A@85'C for 1 second.
Here some details:
The Sensor board is installed only into the positive main battery wire and the BEC should be installed as close as possible to the battery connector.
Quality control of the finished product:
To post here all the quality control during the production would be a very long story, so all I can say is, that it is carried out and recorded.
The final QC before the boards are shipped, is a setup with an FC (Pixhawk) and connected to MissionPlanner to check the calibration values for current and voltage measurement.
This final test result will be passed to the customer together with the order confirmation and shipment tracking number by e-mail.
REM: Which power module supplier out there actually use the PM to power up a real FC before shipment ?
So I hope everybody understands, that if I say "safety first"... then I mean it.
Why Hall sensor ?
Why only a few supplier use a true hall sensor for current measurement in an MR ?
Why output voltage to Pixhawk /APM is 5.35V and not 5.0V ?
Why the cable from UBEC to the sensor board is 4 pol ?
Why sensor board and UBEC are separated ?
Why is there an additional capacitor installed at the input of the UBEC ?
How can I get one of these boards ?
Very nice! I am planning an experiment which requires current readings from a Pixhawk based vehicle. The idea is to test efficiency under different flight conditions. Christian, do you think this sensor would be more accurate for my purposes than the 3DR power module?
When I first saw this post I thought "Well yet another good product but for ten times the cost of the standard one" but my curiosity led me to look at your store. I could not believe it was only U$S 33 for the 200A version and free shipping!
Let´s hope some other vendors start making things going this way: Better than standard but at a reasonable price.
I will but a couple next month.
Keep up the good work!
Hi Michael, thanks a lot for your reply... the sales price with 15% discount is right now:
100A sensor HS-100-V2 with 2-6S BEC = $31.00
200A sensor HS-200-V2 with 2-6S BEC = $33.00
100A sensor HS-100-V2 with 4-14S HYB-BEC = $49.00
200A sensor HS-200-V2 with 4-14S HYB-BEC = $51.00
I'm familiar with the ACS Hall sensors, since I use the FrSky FAS-100 module on almost every build I do. And I've unsuccessfully tried to "steal" its readings and feed them to an APM as well as the FrSky telemetry a couple of years ago.
Hi Para, that's actually exactly what I'm doing in my version. I use the 5.35V from the BEC (HYB-BEC) and supply the voltage for the current sensor and offset shifting OP over an ultra-low noise LDO (LP2985-4.0).
Due to this design, I have the full bandwidth of the analog input, means 0V=0.0A and 3.2V=200A, which results in very stable current readings.
Nice!! I just burned up my 3dr power module and haven't made my maiden flight yet
Yes, the current reading will be more accurate and stable, which is very important even under very low load (current) conditions.
I'm right now working on a stand alone version for the HYB-BEC 4-14S. The tests should be finished this weekend and the product might be available at the end of this month. Expected price is $35 for both the 5.3V and 12V version (of cause incl. shipping).
Will post here any updates when available.
Excellent! Been looking for a beefier setup and just found your post. Your 4-14S looks like it should suit the bill.
I found the Drotek post to be quite disrespectful. I am troubled by the fact the no one saw fit to remove it. There was a time on this forum when one was hard pressed to find people being openly rude like that. A time when people were more positive, helpful and encouraging. Now posts like that are becoming all to common on this site, which is why I don't frequent it as much. It is in the nature of DIY and open source to question, or point out a problem or issue, but to do it rudely should not be allowed. Come on people, what happened to civility?
Looking forward to trying out your hardware Christian.
I think it makes more sense, in this instance at least, to leave the disrespectful response in place for everyone to see. Then let the author make their justification if and when they choose.
All parties can then make their own judgement on the quality or otherwise of the product and its manufacturer.