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ArduCopter User Group

Discussion group for ArduCopter users

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Leddar One optical range-finder support coming to ArduPilot?

Started by Tony Kenward. Last reply by Lance Brummett on Sunday. 13 Replies

Now that the LidarLite is off the market (until Garmin brings it back), there are not many options for accurate altitude sensing.I have a optical flow sensor that I would like to mount up, but I…Continue

Building Copters with Round Tubes - Stronger, Lighter, Easier to Mount Motors than Square Tubes

Started by Forrest Frantz. Last reply by Forrest Frantz on Friday. 577 Replies

Round tubes offer the following pros:handle twist better than square tubes.  Thus for the strength, are far lighter.are more readily available (pipes, tubes, arrows, kite frames, golf clubs and…Continue

Noob build: Twitchy control with Quadcopter using Pixhawk...what am I missing?

Started by Glenn Hollowell. Last reply by Glenn Hollowell on Friday. 4 Replies

I've got a genuine Pixhawk that I bought from 3DR that I am trying to get configured properly. I am running Mission Planner 1.3.36 and have run through the basic configuration process (compass,…Continue

Tags: tuning, Pixhawk

Indoor navigation with ArduCopter

Started by Bim. Last reply by Alex Black on Friday. 9 Replies

Hello everyone,I want to mount a Raspberry Pi and a camera module on my ArduCopter powered drone and have computer vision guide the drone's movement. Flying will be perform indoors so GPS isn't an…Continue

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Comment by Mike Boland on July 4, 2013 at 1:16pm

Have you got your Tx set to Heli by mistake, instead of Acro?

In your radio calibration window on mission planner, when you move throttle is only the throttle moving. This window with the moving bars should aid you in sorting out which channels are doing what.

When you move the rudder to the right is the rudder bar going to max?

Comment by bobarry on July 4, 2013 at 8:45am

I had problems arming, but it worked when selecting arm in the mission planner. Then I read that the throttle trim needed adjusting so that the down & to the right for four seconds really cuts the throttle to zero.

good luck.  bo

Comment by Dan Skaggs on July 4, 2013 at 6:21am

Logan, thank you for your help. However, the hook-up you suggested is what I have on my set-up, so I guess that's not my issue. What's odd is that the board did power up initially and I went through the initial RC set-up with calibrating the sticks; got the ESCs calibrated; all motors & servo worked, although the servo  seemed connected to the throttle inputs. Also, I could not arm or disarm the copter - copter only responded to ESC calibration process. I also started to notice  that when powering up  the copter the board LEDs don't seem to work to show initialization is complete. So I don't think the board is powering up with connection to copter only (Tx/Rx/Battery & no usb). Board powers and connects to computer fine w/ USB only, as when installing firmware.

Comment by Logan Graves on July 3, 2013 at 5:03pm

@Dan Skaggs

Assuming you are using the AR8000 receiver the hookup should be as follows.

Aile to Input 1

Elev to Input 2

Thr to Input 3

Rudd to Input 4

Aux 1 to Input 5

You will probably want to reverse Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder from the RC controller.

Comment by Dan Skaggs on July 3, 2013 at 4:08pm
I just bought my APM 2.5 from DIYdrones to hook it up to my simple tricopter. Can anyone help with a wiring diagram to connect my spectrum receiver properly to the board? I'm using the power module to power the APM board. I've loaded the firm ware to the APM, hooked up the motors and servo per the wiki instructions, calibrated the escs, but can't get the motors to arm. Also, after calibrating, the throttle seems to move te servo for yaw as well as increase throttle, yet the yaw, roll & pitch stick movements have no effect. Any help is appreciated.
Comment by Shyam Balasubramanian on June 30, 2013 at 6:49am

@Rob, any pics would be useful.

Thanks.

Comment by Rob Bartlett on June 30, 2013 at 6:46am

@Bobarry

The holes are so you can stick a rod through the hub and really crank it down tight.  I use a really small hex key and it works great.  I had props flying off until I figured that  one out :)

Comment by Randy Brazeau on June 29, 2013 at 10:37pm
@Bo
I suggest posting to a forum, you will receive more help.
The hubs have to be on tight. I check and double check but they work. I have never had one come off.
Also I agree with Jeff. Quads have the potential for serious injury. I took baby steps when I started learning and I'm still learning.
Check your setup again. You'll get in the air, safely.
Randy
Comment by Jeff P on June 29, 2013 at 9:15pm
Some of these posts make me very nervous that some people are putting powerful Quads/Hexs in the air with little or no flying skills/experience. I have been using the APM boards for a while now and also fly 3D helis daily. Just my opinion. You should at least master a simulator program before ever flying anything unless you are in the middle of a large field and are prepared to crash . Please realize that an injury from a "Drone" gets public attention and can put a strain on the hobby. Commercial pilots learn to fly countless hours before they engage the autopilot on an aircraft. I do not mean to be out of line but this would be considered by many as basic common sense. Be safe
Comment by bobarry on June 29, 2013 at 8:59pm

Help! I put blades on my Turnigy motors, tightened down the cute hubs, revved up to see what happens & one of the hubs flew off!

What can I do?

The hubs have 2 holes on them but it is clear thru them, so set screws aren't in order.

Fortunately I still have setup problems, because full throttle didn't get me off the floor.

Any help appreciated

 
 
 

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