ArduCopter User Group

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My version of onboard oled display for arducopter 3.4

Started by Alexey Kozin. Last reply by Ivosch 3 hours ago. 1 Reply

hi Alli add new functions for onboard display (now  supported for linux version board)it may to be used for pixhawk and other controllers toossd1306 it is small and low cost display (~4 USD)data…Continue


Started by Marco C. Last reply by Roger Freeman 3 hours ago. 13 Replies

Hello,I was just wondering, how much current can a 14 AWG wire handle? can anyone explain and give further detais on this matter? MarcoContinue

quadcopter model dynamique identification

Started by telli khaled. Last reply by telli khaled on Monday. 1 Reply

hello everybody I confused about quad-copter model identification , since the quad is unstable in open loop ,then how can I identify it since is unstable ??? but if I add a controllers in loop of…Continue

GPS Loiter holding issues

Started by Jeff Horton. Last reply by Jeff Horton Oct 19. 7 Replies

Im having trouble with getting the my quadcopter in loiter to keep its position.  It seems like its loosing the signal, but my gcs says the GpsHDOP is at .8 and there are at least 10 sats.  it will…Continue

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Comment by Dan Skaggs on July 4, 2013 at 6:45pm
Mike, Tx is set to acro. Throttle bar was only moved in MP by throttle, but Rudder was moved by roll & roll was by rudder. That's why I initially thought receiver wires were wrong, but they checked out right (see Logan's comment below). Now I can't get board/ESCs to initialize.
Comment by Dan Skaggs on July 4, 2013 at 6:38pm
Bo, good thought, but I read the same note about trimming throttle - tried it but no change.
Comment by Mike Boland on July 4, 2013 at 1:16pm

Have you got your Tx set to Heli by mistake, instead of Acro?

In your radio calibration window on mission planner, when you move throttle is only the throttle moving. This window with the moving bars should aid you in sorting out which channels are doing what.

When you move the rudder to the right is the rudder bar going to max?

Comment by bobarry on July 4, 2013 at 8:45am

I had problems arming, but it worked when selecting arm in the mission planner. Then I read that the throttle trim needed adjusting so that the down & to the right for four seconds really cuts the throttle to zero.

good luck.  bo

Comment by Dan Skaggs on July 4, 2013 at 6:21am

Logan, thank you for your help. However, the hook-up you suggested is what I have on my set-up, so I guess that's not my issue. What's odd is that the board did power up initially and I went through the initial RC set-up with calibrating the sticks; got the ESCs calibrated; all motors & servo worked, although the servo  seemed connected to the throttle inputs. Also, I could not arm or disarm the copter - copter only responded to ESC calibration process. I also started to notice  that when powering up  the copter the board LEDs don't seem to work to show initialization is complete. So I don't think the board is powering up with connection to copter only (Tx/Rx/Battery & no usb). Board powers and connects to computer fine w/ USB only, as when installing firmware.

Comment by Logan Graves on July 3, 2013 at 5:03pm

@Dan Skaggs

Assuming you are using the AR8000 receiver the hookup should be as follows.

Aile to Input 1

Elev to Input 2

Thr to Input 3

Rudd to Input 4

Aux 1 to Input 5

You will probably want to reverse Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder from the RC controller.

Comment by Dan Skaggs on July 3, 2013 at 4:08pm
I just bought my APM 2.5 from DIYdrones to hook it up to my simple tricopter. Can anyone help with a wiring diagram to connect my spectrum receiver properly to the board? I'm using the power module to power the APM board. I've loaded the firm ware to the APM, hooked up the motors and servo per the wiki instructions, calibrated the escs, but can't get the motors to arm. Also, after calibrating, the throttle seems to move te servo for yaw as well as increase throttle, yet the yaw, roll & pitch stick movements have no effect. Any help is appreciated.
Comment by Shyam Balasubramanian on June 30, 2013 at 6:49am

@Rob, any pics would be useful.


Comment by Rob Bartlett on June 30, 2013 at 6:46am


The holes are so you can stick a rod through the hub and really crank it down tight.  I use a really small hex key and it works great.  I had props flying off until I figured that  one out :)

Comment by Randy Brazeau on June 29, 2013 at 10:37pm
I suggest posting to a forum, you will receive more help.
The hubs have to be on tight. I check and double check but they work. I have never had one come off.
Also I agree with Jeff. Quads have the potential for serious injury. I took baby steps when I started learning and I'm still learning.
Check your setup again. You'll get in the air, safely.

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