"These HEX files are bogus, you can see it with the naked eye.
It contains only counting patterns…"
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Vernon Barry
- Goose Creek, SC
- United States
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Vernon Barry's Groups
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ArduRover User Group
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Vernon Barry's Discussions
Proposed safety changes here in the forum
Started this discussion. Last reply by Jake Stew Aug 13, 2012. 8 Replies 0 Likes
Look, I'm sorry. It's a pet peeve of mine that people post here, telling me they have knowingly flown out of range of radio control of some method. Some have been so stupid as to make an FPV…Continue
Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware
Started this discussion. Last reply by Hessel Jun 1. 20 Replies 1 Like
Ok, so here's the basic deal. The stock firmware coming on the ESCs works as intended but is far less than ideal for use in our quads. The problem here is that due to startup sequence timing from…Continue
Vernon Barry's Page
Latest Activity
Hessel replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmwareHessel replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware"The files are bogus, you can see it with the naked eye.
It contains only counting patterns…"
CyberCrash replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware"Year, higher power drain.
I just did a test flight...before I had lift off at 45%, now like 52%.
Damn. I will test some more then maybe go back."
CyberCrash replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware"Just finished flashing all of my 6 Jdrones 20A.
Flashing was easy and fast. Then I did the calibration and everything worked just fine."
DeveloperJohn Arne Birkeland replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware
"Better is a relative term. The SimonK firmware will make the ESC more responsive (side effects can be higher power drain and heat), translating into more aggressive P gains that usually result in smoother flights."
CyberCrash replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware"Hello,
so, I just flash this file "tgy_2012-03-21_6af38a2.zip" and that's it?
My Jdrones 20A will be much better than?"
Søren Kuula replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware"Hi,
I also had only good experience with SimonK firm. I have on my E-Flite 30A BLC, and my dirt cheap DragonSky's run like something 5 times the price.
But do get controllers with a crystal or resonator clock source on them, this is much much…"
DeveloperJohn Arne Birkeland replied to Vernon Barry's discussion Flashing 3DR ESCs or RC timer ESCs with MUCH better firmware
"If you plan to experiment with SimonK firmwares, this tool is worth every penny. No need to solder ICSP headers, just press the tool head over the chip and…"
Vernon Barry replied to Kobus's discussion wanted** 5.8ghz 200mw-osd-cam"You do get that 5.8 ghz is the worst decision you could make?
Power loss due to distance is directly related to frequency. Higher frequency means less distance for a given power. This is why 802.11A sucked, has sucked and always will suck at 5ghz.…"
Vernon Barry replied to Frankie Davis's discussion Transmit photos while in air"Sorry but important things first. While in your head, it may seem logical to power everything from the main battery, Don't do this! Even a good engineer who fully understands all of the electrical problems would see that the risk involved from…"
Vernon Barry replied to Randy's discussion ArduCopter 2.8 / 2.8.1 released"Yes, rather than just saying RTFM, I tried to give you a little more info by providing the instructions in case you didn't have them and also show that particular ESC firmware is very common between several ESCs in that range.
Also,…"
Vernon Barry replied to Tom Petruzzelli's discussion Troubling Take Off in the group ArduCopter User Group"In general, when you are close to the ground, no aircraft/heli will stay in a single place because they create a vortex of spinning air that you are trying to balance the machine on top of. It's called ground effect.
This is why flying…"
Vernon Barry replied to Lloyd DeForrest's discussion Help- Compass deviates with increased motor current"My answer was and still is the same as Doug's, move the current sensor to the bottom near the battery to keep all high current wiring as far away from the APM as possible.
"I have the AttoPilot sensor but its location is very…"
Vernon Barry replied to Lloyd DeForrest's discussion Help- Compass deviates with increased motor currentVernon Barry replied to Lloyd DeForrest's discussion Help- Compass deviates with increased motor current"Why would you be at a loss? We know about this, there are about 100 threads on the subject. High DC currents make a magnetic field. The only way to counteract is to increase distance between the offending wires and the mag sensor. Also, twisting the…"
Profile Information
- About Me:
- My hobbies inlcude real turbine engines, lasers, cnc machines, 3D printers, and restoring classic cars. I fly RC helicopters, both nitro and electric.
- Tell us a bit about your UAV interest
- I'm just getting into the UAV hobby but have lots of experience with RC helis. I have good experience in programming in Arduino as well.
- Hometown:
- Charleston SC
Comment Wall (3 comments)
- At 10:46am on May 21, 2012,
James Dinh said… Hi Vernon,
I have APM 2. Everything worked great, flying great. Then, I had a crash. My fault, not the board. I crashed into a tree. Now, the board lights up fine when I plug it in via USB to my computer. All the LED lights show normal function. I get GPS lock, I can access Mission Planner, erase eeprom, load new codes (2.5.5), etc.
With the USB still in, if I plug in the lipo and arm the motors, I can throttle up and the motors spin normally. But as soon as I unplug the USB (lipo is still plugged in) the board goes dark and I get no response from the motors other then the dreaded continual beeps. Somehow, it seems that I'm not able to power the board via the output pins (jumper is in on the JP1 pin), but can power the board via USB.
I've checked all the soldering on all my wires going in and out of the PDB. I've visually checked the board itself. All the soldering looks good. I guess there are many things that could have damaged the board during the crash, but why does it work normally as described above? Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated. I miss my robot friend. :(
- At 11:17am on May 21, 2012, Alonso Rodriguez said…
James,
Make sure your jumper is still present.
I had something similar happen to me.
I thought it was the jumper but ended up being the diode (D1).
What I discovered is that D1 burned up on me.
Dont know how or why.
D1 is nearly impossible to replace as it sits just below the jumper.
What I ended up doing was soldering a wire from VCC to +5V.
Basically bipassing the diode.Hope this helps.
- At 9:32am on June 15, 2012,
Al Lowrie said… Have you had any problems resulting from the bipass thus far? Are you powering the APM from the Output rail only with the jumper in place? Thanks, Al
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