Sean brought an updated Aerotestra Hugo by. Improvements include:
Tags: aerotestra, hugo
Cool design, where did u get a power switch that can handle all the amps?
They don't really need to handle as many as you might think. The rating is usually given assuming the load is on but in this case nothing is drawing the amps until the motors are running. Then the switch can handle more amps since it's contacts are closed.
Mark, is the Aerotestra for sell? Didn't see anything about that on the blog.
Sorry I am just now speaking up. I am glad to see you like the design.You can see in the image the lid fits with the GPS in place. I often fly with it off if it is not raining. It would probably be a good idea to protect the GPS. I imagine with the uBlox I have coming in the mail I will be fkying with the lid on rain or shine.
I had also planned on using an arming plug like the one you see here until I came across the switch while picking up some fuses.It was specified for 25 Amps @ 125V, which seemed reasonable to me. But I think I see it as a weak link. I think I will probably go back to the arming plug.
I will try and get an expected shipping date soon.
Is it easy to replace the batteries, or do you need to dismount the apm to gain access?
Very nice design.
Gary the AquaCopter is sort of awkward in a few areas, one being that the Kydex completely eats certain types of RF - http://www.kydex.com/Uploads/Files/KYDEX_TB_122-A_KYDEXforRadomes_0... actually had issues getting either 433mhz or 900mhz *out* of my AquaCopter hull. I have yet to test the range impact on 2.4ghz if any.
Two being the hatch thumb screws are a HUGE pain, after using them a few times a day my thumbs are always raw and blistered. Does anyone know if you have to crack this chopper open every time you want to change the battery as well?
It is nice to see an external power switch, the AquaCopter does not include one so it was one of the first things I added.
You do have to unscrew the lid to access
the compartment where the batteries are stored.
But it seems pretty easy to me. I keep a palm size rechargable drill in the case. I do the battery change now like a pit crew, so it only takes a minute. The way I designed the lower hull allows for a power distribution board to be screwed to the bottom . I then formed the two shelves forward and aft to support one or two batteries side by side. I could form the bottom so that it would allow the batteries to be velcro'ed or strapped to the bottom of the hull
Very nice. Seems like you have a better approach. If they were *actual* screws on the AquaCopter there would not be much to complain about. They use a plastic thumb screw instead. My fingers were not pleased.
I prefer the battery locked in like you have it but maybe some better thumb screws or the electric screwdriver would be ok.
A quarter or 1/8 turn locking mechanism that locks the whole center mechanism is at the top of my list but some of my original attempts have proven unreliable. That will be real quick. Still requires some work to get a reliable repeatable device designed.
Dome, Cap looks good. Thanks.P.S.: What about an DIY - onboard - Balancer ?
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