Comment by Andrew Radford on March 17, 2012 at 3:28pm

Good idea.

Another piece of advice is that you need to get the deans lugs REALLY hot in order for the solder to adhere properly. Just melting solder onto cold brass with an underpowered iron sometimes means it is not welded properly, and in bad cases it just chips off with your fingernail. 

Comment by Jack Crossfire on March 17, 2012 at 11:04pm

At last, an ultrasonic solder removal tool, for disconnecting those joints which just don't come undone by heat alone.

Comment by R. D. Starwalt on March 18, 2012 at 7:16am

Don't be discouraged but there are several poor to bad solder joints on your board.

I assembled mine yesterday. The Deans are suspect but your 90 degree connectors have several glob-like joints.

A good solder joint has a 'meniscus' look to it.

HERE is a pdf on soldering practice - and that the key to successful soldering.

I will take a photo of my board as an example for you and post later.

 

Comment by R. D. Starwalt on March 18, 2012 at 9:59am

As stated, here is a close view of one section of my board.

Comment by Dee Smith on March 18, 2012 at 10:01am

Different kinds of solder will yield different results. The best kind I have come across is the RadioShack brand 60/40 Rosin Core Solder ( for light duty)  This kind of solder melts quite well and adheres to the PDB without effort. The result is a very strong bond, using this solder you will think you are a pro. I had previously purchased one of those tube enclosed versions from Frys and the result was some ugly soldering and it wouldn't hold, any slight tug and it would come apart.

Comment by R. D. Starwalt on March 18, 2012 at 10:08am

The above pic shows the meniscus effect of the solder. Do you see the sqare end of the 90 degree pins as they sit in the solder? I cleaned the resin off the board with denatured alcohol to make it pretty for the camera. This is the M4 position on the board. Notice the connection for the Deans (seen in the upper left). The pad shows the meniscus and the cooled solder is very clean. A 'shiny' joint is one indication you had enough temperature to cause the components to bond well. I used a resin core solder, Radio Shack 64-009E. It is 60/40 type. 0.032 diameter.

Developer Comment by Mark Colwell on March 21, 2012 at 8:08am

Harbor Freight sells a great iron for this work, use it to carve up foam equipment / battery pockets in foam wings too. on sale $12

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