[This original ArduPilot board, now called the "Legacy ArduPilot" is no longer produced or officially supported by the DIY Drones dev team, and this page is maintained just for historic reasons. However, there are still many users of it out there and it still works fine. The user group for Legacy ArduPilot users, for both thermopile and IMU use, is here.]

 

ArduPilot is a full-featured autopilot based on the Arduino open-source hardware platform. It uses infrared (thermopile) sensors or an IMU for stabilization and GPS for navigation. It is the autopilot used to win the 2009 Sparkfun Autonomous Vehicle Competition.

The hardware is available from Sparkfun for $24.95. An expansion board ("Shield") kits that includes an airspeed sensor, a 3.3v power regulator for 3.3v GPS modules and other sensors and cables and connectors for easy attachment of the XY and Z sensors, is available from our own store for $57.20.

 

User f

ArduPilot features include:

  • Can be used for an autonomous aircraft, car or boat.
  • Built-in hardware failsafe that uses a separate circuit (multiplexer chip and ATTiny processor) to transfer control from the RC system to the autopilot and back again. Includes ability to reboot the main processor in mid-flight.
  • Multiple 3D waypoints (limited only by memory)
  • Altitude controlled with the elevator and throttle
  • Comes with a 6-pin GPS connector for the 4Hz uBlox5 or 1hz EM406 GPS modules.
  • Has six spare analog inputs (with ADC on each) and six spare digital input/outputs to add additional sensors
  • Supports addition of wireless modules for real-time telemetry
  • Based on a 16MhZ Atmega328 processor. Total onboard processing power aprox 24 MIPS.
  • Very small: 30mm x 47mm
  • Can be powered by either the RC receiver or a separate battery
  • Four RC-in channels (plus the autopilot on/off channel) can be processed by the autopilot. Autopilot can also control four channels out.
  • LEDs for power, failsafe (on/off), status and GPS (satellite lock).


Resources:

ArduPilot requires the free Arduino IDE to edit and upload the code to the ArduPilot board.



The code is currently optimized for the Mutiplex EasyStar three-channel powered glider and FMA sensors, but can be modified for other aircraft and sensors. It uses the rudder/ailerons and elevator to maintain level flight and navigate to GPS waypoints. It supports a desktop setup utility and ground station software. It also includes a "fly-by-wire" mode that simply stabilizes RC flight. The main code is ArduPilot2.x.zip in the download section of our Google Code repository, where x is the latest version.

What you need to make a fully-functional autopilot:


Open source extras:

  • If you want to build your own board from scratch, the necessary files and component lists are here.
  • [Note: you shouldn't need this, since this code is loaded on the ArduPilot board at the factory] Latest multiplexer code (for the board's second processor, an Attiny, which runs the failsafe system) is here.
    Instructions for loading this code are here.



Recommended UAV setup:


Airframe option one: Hobbico SuperStar (49" wingspan, $95, shown above). This is an inexpensive, good flying high-wing trainer with ailerons. It can be hand launched in a park or take off from a runway, and replacement parts are readily available in case of a crash. If you want much better performance with this aircraft, you can upgrade it to a brushless motor, speed controller and a LiPo battery. [If you don't already have one, you'll also need a balancing charger and power supply.] Note: any stable aircraft with both ailerons (for stabilization) and rudder (for navigation) can work, so feel free to experiment with what you've got.


Airframe option two (recommended for ArduPilot 2.x): EasyStar (shown above). Performance can be improved with the modifications described in this post.

You'll also need:

  • A six or seven channel RC transmitter and receiver, with at least one toggle switch (ideally three-position but two-position will work, too, although you will have to mix channels to have access to both autopilot modes in the air), such as the Futaba 7C.
  • Some servos (at least three for ArduPilot 1.0; at least two for ArduPilot 2.x) and at least three female-to-female servo cables to connect the RC receiver to ArduPilot.


Cool optional extras for your UAV:

Views: 179417

Comment by Earl on August 23, 2009 at 6:04pm
WOW Peter !
Soooo smooth. Great turns.
I hope my setup runs as good.

Now, how to stuff all THIS into
That small space !
Earl
GStest 005.jpg
GStest 004.jpg
Comment by Earl on August 23, 2009 at 6:26pm
Got the camera on now.
GStest 006.jpg
Comment by Peter Meister on August 23, 2009 at 6:52pm
Thanks Earl. Today with little wind, she flew perfectly. I even got an evening flight 30 minutes ago, sold my wife on a flight in return for Starbucks :) - Worked like a charm. I believe my settings are as good as I will ever need. So I am locking this one down, tomorrow I test these settings in a brand new out of the box Easystar. Then on weds, same settings will be tested on my Multiplex Fox - a mini version of the easystar, that I converted to RC with brushless and 2.4ghz 500mw Video. Since its the same airframe, just smaller I am hopeful the settings will work on her with little to no modifications.

3D Robotics
Comment by Chris Anderson on August 23, 2009 at 6:58pm
Earl, airspeed numbers are not meaningful when the aircraft is not in motion.
Comment by Peter Meister on August 23, 2009 at 7:13pm
Here is my Ardupilot 2.3 Release video archive location.

Ardupilot Video Library - 2.3 Release
Comment by Earl on August 23, 2009 at 7:33pm
OK Chris, but I used to put the pidot tube in the output vent of my window AC and it would register 8-10 mph. Now it goes from -123 to about -113. About 10 mph but the bias seems way off. Any other thoughts ?
Earl

3D Robotics
Comment by Jordi Muñoz on August 23, 2009 at 7:57pm
Earl, are you calibrating the airspeed? (inserting the bind plug?) Also the pitot tube must go in the upper hole.

Regards.
Comment by Earl on August 23, 2009 at 8:07pm
Didn't do calibration...will try
Earl
Comment by Earl on August 23, 2009 at 8:11pm
My bad !! It was the calibrate...sorry....
Thanks for the simple fix !
Earl
Comment by Mike W on August 23, 2009 at 8:22pm
Chris,

I am using an FMA XY and Z sensor, plugged into the shield, assembled in accordance with the manual.
I did try the sensor test program to no avail, all it did was make the servers jitter (barely noticable) for a quarter second every 5-8 seconds.. The walkaround failed as well. Any ideas? All lights look normal.

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