100KM

Camera Door for Protecting Lens

I've been using a Skywalker for taking aerial maps. By destroying my previous camera, I've learned two things:

1. Protect the camera lens from dust upon landing

2. Protect the camera from batteries during rough "landings"

So I've come up with the solution in the video above.

It works incredibly well! A sample of a stitch while using the system:

3689468093?profile=originalClick here for the full-resolution (14MB) image: http://www.cde.co.za/share/Stitch2.jpg

Compared to Google Earth:

3689468134?profile=originalFun with drones!

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Comments

  • @mike  I have an UAV and an S95 Canon and as you mentioning a script just wondering if you have a script that takes on intervals and autofocuses as I am struggling to find something that works to take photos of real estate.

    Many many thanks (sea point and hout bay)

  • 100KM

    Rory, it looks great! You really have to go out of your way to destroy your Skywalker - it's very fixable. I've had crashes with more bits of foam lying around and could repair it to fly perfectly after one night. There are a few tricks have a look at the rcgroups thread.

    Just make sure you fix your rubber bands like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgTAffKvylk.

  • T3

    Hein

    I have the shifted things around and recalibrate the autopilot CG  at 90mm. I am going to look for a better pilot to than myself to do the initial tweaking of the AP settings. With regards to the CF on the elevator I used the supplied strip of CF and then added two more smaller strips to try and make it a bit more rigid.  All the control surfaces have packing tape. The AP is in a crash housing and all the servo leads etc have been braided covering. I expect to loose the airframe at some point but I hope that all the avionics will survive a major crash (battery will probably go).3692465299?profile=original 3692465357?profile=original

  • 100KM

    @Rory - a few grams in the tail can make a difference - the further you move away from the center of the plane, the larger the effect, like moving forward or backward on a see-saw.

    I have very heavy batteries (10mAh 4S), move them 5mm makes a massive difference to handling. I think 90mm from the leading edge is perfect to start with, move it back until you see the plane porposing (dragging nose-up), then you know you've gone too far. Unless you want to fly real fast, which will warrant a little forward bias placement.

    On the Skywalker, if you're nose heavy and you're in a bit of a dive, the elevator can lose all authority and you'll crash, it's happened again and again. If you're CG is 15-30mm behind the servo wire groove, you're safe(r). Be sure to reinforce the elevator with CF strip.

  • Very neat! I like it!

  • Hi Brakar,

    I was inspired by someone (I can't find the link right now) who put the camera on top of the wing and cut a hole out for the lens. I didn't feel comfortable with that so tried underneath and the holes in the wing are very small. I have used glass reinforced tape on the underside of the wings to stiffen and strengthen them. I did think about integrating into the wing but this solution works so there hasn't been any stand out reason to drive that effort...

  • Mike,

    Thanks for uploading picktures. I was thinking of integrating the camera into the Wing, but your solution is certainly simpler. I might try this first with my next installation.
  • T3

    Hein

    In the manual I received there was no information about the CG. I read on one of the forums that the suggested CG is 70mm from the leading edge. If I make it 30mm behind the servo wires this put is about 100mm from the leading edge.

    Attached is a pic of my setup. Even with CG moved behind the servo lines (about 90mm from leading edge) I still have to have the battery where you have put your camera.  I do have my telemetry antenna mounted in the tail but that is a couple of grams.3692464211?profile=original

  • Hi Brakar,

    here are some pics - as you can see it is minimalist! I don't think it shows here but I put a thin piece of bubble wrap between the camera and the wing to reduce vibes and avoid the wing pressing the buttons on the back of the camera. The camera is located around the longitudinal CoG so doesn't need balancing and the velcro strap goes through the wing and the spar is within the loop so gives a greater sense of security. The lens is located inboard so that it provides a mechanical stop to prevent the camera falling out and the lens surround does this even when the lens is retracted. I originally put a coin on the tip of the opposite wing to balance laterally but one day I forgot to put it there and it made absolutely no difference...

    I will tidy up the CHDK script and post later.

    3692463683?profile=original3692464117?profile=originalundefined3692463696?profile=original

  • 100KM

    @Mike, I haven't been so successful getting the timing perfect. It happens that the camera runs end of sequence before it's done with the circuit, or I need to make an unscheduled landing because COG is not right, or something else is wrong. This way I can let it take pictures indefinitely, allowing me more freedom. Enough can go wrong as it is!

    I'd love a picture too! Please pop in for coffee? E-Mail me on hein@cde.co.za.

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