As you can see on the picture, one component has burnt on the tx (at the bottom near ts330 writing). However I can always transmit the signal with the sound, but no image. And when the tx is on, the TV screen is going black without frying. I mean there is no BSOD.
Do you think guys, it's possible to fix it? If you have an idea I'm interested.
Good , Happy to hear it.
It is an inductor it is used to filter out certain frequencies in 12v wire from the ESC
i'm happy for you....
we need to help all people...
Sounds like you sent too much volts or got your wiring mixed up, eg put the positive on the wrong pin.
Hello friends. I have a different transmitter, but the same problem. It is a Boscam 600mw 32channel. If you could help me , I think I have damaged the same part. I connected a new board camera but it seems the video and power wires were switched on the new cam from the old cam. I had the same black smoke and puff. Here is a picture. Please help! I am going to test with jumping the connection with a simple piece of metal or a wire. Also then I may just try the recommendation to connect the battery straight to the camera.
I have a DJI 5.8ghz tx actually made by Boscam. Mine had the positive and negative (red and black) power wires reversed. Luckily I noticed this before power up.
I fried my Boscam 5.8g 200mW (from HobbyKing) today when trying to wire it to a crappy OSD that came with no instruction. A capacitor/resistor/inductor smoked, destroyed a pad, and it now sends no video. I hope it can be fixed with @lordgotham 's method.
Could you confirm the following is the right wiring? Thanks!
If it's of any help now, this is what I've learned about this subject.
Referring to the image I attached.
L1 is an inductor (AKA 'choke') and is around 10uH and has a resistance of around 0.5ohms.
R1 is a 'link' resistor of close to 0ohms. Swapping the link resistor to the vacant pads marked with an arrow will connect the DC output to the 5V regulator of the TS330 (giving 5V for a CMOS camera).
D1 is a Schottky diode, probably about 1 Amp size.
C1 is a vacant pad for a filter capacitor if required.
I accidentally shorted my 12V output to ground and burned the L1 inductor too like you guys, hence I found this thread.
I replaced it with a same sized SMD inductor scavenged from an old defunct PC network card, a smaller L value but good enough for now (R value was lower than original too).
I added a 10uF 16V SMD capacitor on C1 pads for the hell of it too. R1 was still OK when measured.
Hi, I have 2 Boscam 200mw Txs with same (burnt fuse!) problem. I followed the method suggested my LordGotham, but it then led to melting of 12V power cable coming from 3S Lipo. Fortunately the JST plug at battery end melted immediately and that disconnected the battery from Tx. Some melting is also seen at Tx end of the power cable.
Can anyone suggest me what did I do wrong? Here is the picture of my soldering and bypassing work done on one of the Txs. Now I am afraid to do the same on the other one! Please help...