Dear

i am a beginner i have set up each and every thing but when i armed my quad copter . motor no 1 satrt spining after 50% throttle whereas other 3 motors does not start spin  but when i move my pitch than one of my motor start spinning too but my other two motors were not spinning .yet....than i connect my apm through usb and set the pre arm check to 0 . but nothing happen and my motor spin arm is set to 70 and one thing is that when i trim my throttle alll the way down from my TX than its arming other wise not arming . plzz tell me what the problem is 

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Dear Forentz.

first of all thank you for your continous support. i ordered a 3s lipo and it is on the way . but yesterday my friend told me that there may be some problem in my wiring of esc to output rail let me tell you how i am wiring my whole APM and kindly let me know if i am doing any thing wrong. and plzz sorry for my childish questions....

dear i am powering my APM using Simonk ESC BEC(5v 2A) with JP1 connected i am not using 3DR power module .and i have cutted down the red and black wire from all of my ESc BEC except one ....that one esc is connected with motor 1 and plugged in to the output pin no 1.....and for other three ESCs only signal wire is connected to the output pins.  and from input rail i did the same thing i have connected (S,+,-) of channel 1 to input pin # 1 and for all other channels the only signal wire is connected....... so this is the way i am powering my APM .... all motors are moving as seen in my video but i think my motors are getting little bit hot after continuous spinning for 4 to 5 minute .. so tell me about my wiring nd also tell me that is it normal to get motor hot..... again sorry for these type questions ... waiting for your reply


Forrest Frantz said:

yes. voltage (3.7 x S) determines how fast your props can spin (amps determine torque and watts determine thrust).  volts start at about 4.2 V per S and then drop through the flight until finally the voltage is too low to lift the ship (it can drop to 2.5 V per S). 

you particular ship (from watching the video) needs about 10V to get is off the ground. a 3S battery will give you between 12 at the start to 8 at the end, so a 3S battery will fly your ship for about 2/3rds to 1/2 of it's rated capacity.  A 4S will be able to use all of its rated capacity (and it would fly really fast).

buy a 3S or 4S battery based on its weight. you want it to weigh about the same as the 2S battery that you have now.  if you can't find the weights, then look at the 2S capacity.  Example:

- your battery is 2S 2400 mAh = 4800 S-mAh

- so buy a          3S 1600 mAh = 4800 S-mAh (1200 mAh to 2000 mAh)

- or buy a           4S 1200 mAh = 4800 S-mAh (1000 mAh to 1500 mAh)  



It's not how I'd wire thing up, but if it works ...

Normal:

- PM to power the FCU
- ESC black and white wire to FCU pins for a cleaner signal
- Remove all red wires from the ESC to FCU

Other:

- ESC BEC red wire from one ESC to power FCU and config the FCU to receive power from that source
- Other red wires removed (but some say leave all four red wires connected for power backup)

The signal from the FCU to the ESC is in a PWM form.  So it might work just fine without the ground wire because the ESC is looking at the length of the wave, not the amplitude.

Long story short--Your friend is right but so is the way you wired it if it works.  See what happens once you install the 3S battery.

should i connect the ground wire too ..... i am using hobbyking simonk 30A 5v2A ESC BEC

not according to that drawing ... as stated above, PWM signals are wave length not height critical, so ground, which provides the height reference point, is not always needed by the ESCs.

i also assume that the red and black coming from the Right ESC is what powers the flight controller. 

Dear forrestt 

i am really reallly sorry i am still not clear with your past two reply about powering APM bczz i have sent a diagram of my powering way .. and you said i am doing wrong but in your reply the methods you gave me are the same as my diagram so what is wong with my method.

you said 

" - ESC BEC red wire from one ESC to power FCU and config the FCU to receive power from that source
  - Other red wires removed  "

the same thing i did  in my diagram that i removed red wire from all esc except one so what is wrong with my way...

and plzzz clearly tell me what to do.... and once again thannk you very very very muchh that you are helping me... sorry for bad questionss

Probably the use of English.

In my response, the header was "Normal" and the way similar to yours had the header "Other" ... and in my last response, i made an assumption that the reader would continue from your though above ... so not the best way to communicate. So I'll be totally clear.

1) Go by the drawing (usually not flawed)

2) Then go by the text (sometimes not well translated)

3) Then if that doesn't work, go by what others suggest.

The drawing shows:

- one wire going to 3 ESCs

- three wires going to ESC "R"

Ground wires (black) going to the ESC are not always needed.  I always use 2, the signal wire (usually white or orange/yellow) and the ground wire (black).

The drawing shows a red and black wire going to the servo "rail" to power the FCU.  This also assumes that the ESCs are the BEC type that have 5 VDC from the ESC (not all do).


So you are doing just fine.  If the ship flies, fly it.  Have you received your 3S battery yet?
Hamza fayaz said:

Dear forrestt 

i am really reallly sorry i am still not clear with your past two reply about powering APM bczz i have sent a diagram of my powering way .. and you said i am doing wrong but in your reply the methods you gave me are the same as my diagram so what is wong with my method.

you said 

" - ESC BEC red wire from one ESC to power FCU and config the FCU to receive power from that source
  - Other red wires removed  "

the same thing i did  in my diagram that i removed red wire from all esc except one so what is wrong with my way...

and plzzz clearly tell me what to do.... and once again thannk you very very very muchh that you are helping me... sorry for bad questionss

Dear Forrest

Thankxxx for your suggestion i did not recieve my 3s battrey yet i will tell U when i get my battrey.

and i think you are 100% right that the issue may be of my battrey bcz as i charged my 2s battrey to 8.2 volts than my drone bcomes stable in air (i was shocked)  it was stable but drifting slowly in forward direction i dont know why it is drifting may be still one of my motor is little bit slow bczz voltage was 8.2  instead of 11.1 volt.... but this time as i rise my throttle above 50% my quad lifted up perfectly and i am happy now thank you mr forrest Frantz you helped me ...but i was after 5 minutes as i touch my motor it was heatup and the esc which is powering my APM was also little bit heat up is it normal to get heat up for motors and esc....... in short quad is lifting up when i charging my battrey to above 8 volts but if it is 7.4 volt charged than motors not moving good.....so thanxxxxx i am waiting for my 3s battrey

The 3S batteries will heat the motors up a bit more (even though the amps will be less ... has to do with efficiency of magnetic field containment and the fact that watts will be slightly higher).

Different props can help solve that problem.  Do you know the type and size?  If I've tested that size, I can tell you which props are more efficient at producing lift so you can fly with lower amps, volts, and watts.

The ship drifting forward only has to do with voltage when the volts are at 7.5ish and the volts are not high enough to allow the forward props to react enough to balance the ship.

Ship drift can also be caused by the ship not knowing what is level (battery placement impacts that greatly).

Glad that the ship is flying!

dear my prop are of 1045 Size (i think it means 10 inch) and motors are of 1000KV and let me tell you that the esc which is powering my APM is little bit more heating up than other three ESC

You should also see brand on the prop?  Like APC 1045?  Are they dual or tri-prop?

yes, 1045 means 10" diameter x 4.5" pitch (the amount of air it moves in one revolution).

if you can get your hands on APC 1047 SF (slow flyer) and 1047 SFP (you need two of the SF and two of the SFP for pusher). that's the most efficient prop in that size catagory.

https://www.apcprop.com/?s=10x4.7 

you can also search the internet for APC 10x4.7 or APC 1047 SF 

Those are fine.

Hamza fayaz said:

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