I have some questions, but first let me tell you what I have done so far. I have my arducopter assembled, all ESC’s calibrated with the following calibration:



 ESC Tower Pro w25 settings Brake-off, Battery type-Li-Poly, Cutoff Mode-Soft, Cutoff Threshold-Medium-High, Start Mode-Normal, Timing-Medium.


Motor-Turnigy 2217 20turn 860kv 22A Outrunner Motor spacing is about 51cm


APM and IMU Fatubu T6XH radio with 4500mAh battery.


My questions are:


Are the ESC setting correct for theses motors and application?


What mode should I start off with to try to get it in the air for the first time?


What PID settings to start off with?


Thanks for any help,

 Scott Quartochi

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Great to see you've gotten it up in the air! How's your frame holding up to the crashes?
Scott, I wondered the same thing. I couldn't tell from your picture if the quad had some protection over the electronics when it flips onto its lid.
Well the frame is sturdy to a point, and then the center assembly will bend slightly. It’s easy to fix and takes some of the force of a hard landing or hopping.

The flip scared me because I have nothing protecting the electronics right now. But all is fine. I am going to fit a dome from a PTZ security camera over the electronics. I hope that does the job.

It was very hard to keep it at a steady altitude, either it was shooting up or falling slow. I guess I will get the hang of it soon.
I had those types of issues a few weeks ago. It wouldn't hold altitude very well. I adjusted my ESC timing from the default to medium. That seemed to improve the altitude hold. Now I am having some minor drift and I still need to fine tune the PID. I took it up this morning it was having some odd yaw fluctuations. Eventually, I crashed and broke a prop. Hehe.

Curious to know if you've fine tuned your PID and what you values you end up with.
I wonder if some of the "oddness" or uncommanded inputs can be explained by EMI. It might be worth installing ferrite rings on our ESCs and shielding the APM/electronics from the battery/motor wires by placing some foil, etc, under the electronics shelf for good measure.
John, it's worth a shot. I never noticed any of that sort of behavior until today.
I am still working with the default PIDs
I think I'm suffering from the same problem... When taking of the quad shoots up in the air as soon it's coming loose from the ground. So if understand it correctly the solution is to make all motors turn the other way (although they are now rotating in the right direction according to the docs, front/back=CW, left/right=CCW (as seen from above)), switch the props and reverse yaw? If I reverse yaw then I see in the Configurator moving the yaw to the opposite direction if I do this, this is no problem?
you should be good
Almost every user has to find their own PID values due different people lives on different areas and altitudes, having different weight of quad, different motors, different propellers and so on.

We in ArduCopter team can only give starting point for PIDs. And future ArduCopter full kit can use those values quite well due airframe and electronics is same.

Here is quote from one of out developer how he tunes PID values:

"Adjust PID is not an easy task, I started with a basic (low values) of P and D and I=0 (ex: P=1, D=0.3) then I start to increase I until the quad auto trim (I part is like a trim value, if it´s too low the quad could not auto trim...) then I start to increase D ( be carefull because too much D makes quad unstable). when I get the maximun D value I reduce it a bit (for example for max D is about 0.8, so I finally use D = 0.5). D term is very important because it´s the "stability" term... if you see the code D value it´s the same as the P value of the acrobatic mode (it´s proportional to the gyro rate). When you increase D, you loose manual control (the quad is more lazy), so more D needs more P. Now it´s time to increase P, again too much P makes the quad unstable, so put in a safe value."

Hi Scott, I have the same Turnigy 2217 20 turn 860 kv 22A Outrunner Motor. When I connect the ESC's and battery etc, the cables connected to the motor spin WITH the outside out of the motor as the cables are connected near the shaft. Does this make sense? How did you resolve this issue ?

These two images show the cables moving whilst the motor is spinning...


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