I was setting up ch6 on my 2.5 and accidently plugged my Receiver channel 6 output into the APM 2.5's output 6. Now I can't connect MP to the APM. I no longer get all the flashing lights. I can hit the reset and get some instant flash but no connection. Can it be fixed or have I made toast out of it? HELP!!

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I'm a little surprised if that could toast your APM.  You might want to check if the 3.3V regulator is ok.

Randy, thanks for the help. I followed the instructions with hopes it was the 3.3 regulator but I get less than 1 volt across the two pins. Another thing that is strange is that I get 0 volts on the output pins - and + that should be 5v. When I check the input pins - and + I get 4.97 or say 5v. I have only one light that is on, on the board which is green (alive I think). Is this any clue to what is blown. 

I think the output pins will only give 5V if you've got the JP1 jumper in place.

I think the 3.3V regulator can fail in one of two ways, either it produces 5V (like in the video) or 0V.  The other component that can fail is one of the diodes but I don't know much about that.  You might get lucky and find that by replacing the 3.3V regulator all is fine again.

Was the receiver being powered from the APM?  If so then then both rails were shared and therefore you 'may' be able to salvage the APM.  

If you're interested the full schematic is here:

https://api.ning.com/files/AwOyT6gC1eGh-VuScvuVQ*1pteg76CDk1hbENyK9VgM38*TO8VqWwmy9e00NFxaaxV0DiUd652C*JFOKpGB5l9sR2ljhLQlu/APM_v252_RELEASECopy.png

Randy I discovered the jumper after I posted that. I can see your point on the regulator. I just got through ordering 2 from digkey. I am keeping my fingers crossed it will fix the problem. I think you are correct. Thank you very much for your help.

No, Crady. The receiver being powered by the ESC. Thanks for link to the schematic. I think the 3.3v regulator will fix it. If it don't I will have to decide what next - APM 2.6 or Pixhawk.

Allen,

     I would go with the Pixhawk over the APM2.6.  At the moment there's little difference in performance (in fact the APM2.x is arguably more stable) but the Pixhawk will perform better than the APM once AC3.2 goes out.

What happens if you set the jumper on and power everything thru Input rail....

Randy,

I have been thinking strongly on the Pixhawk, It definitely has the potential, the APM has about reached its limit but still the APM is a great unit it has maxed me out not me maxing it out even though I have almost killed it. The thing that is holding me back on the Pixhawk at this point is connecting it to my radio. I use a modified ersky9x with frsky DJT module and a D8R-II Plus that I flashed with the 27ms firmware. I am not sure of how to hook it up or if it will work correctly. I know this has been a little off topic from the original post so I hope no one gets offended.

Emin, I tried that and it gave 5v on input and output + rails. I did check the 3.3v regulator and found that I am getting 5v to the input side of the regulator but on the output side of the regulator I only get 0.9 volts. This pretty much says the regulator is not working. Time to drag out the large magnifier , small tip soldering iron long skinny tweezers and tooth pick and remove the old part. Don't you just love the surface mount technology. I shure am glad this is the v252 board.

Welcome to the club. This happened to me on TWO APM 2.5 boards in less than a month.

Here is a first tentative to restaure the first card:

http://www.diydrones.com/group/arducopterusergroup/forum/topics/bri...

Then second one died too:

http://www.diydrones.com/group/arducopterusergroup/forum/topics/sec...

For neither of these two bricked APMs I have found a solution so => garbage.

OK, guys. Randy was correct. I got my 3.3v regulator from Digkey today, soldered the little jewel in and everything went back to normal its working like a charm.

Thanks for all the help guys.

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