new APM flavor released: APM Mini Pro

I just noticed this at the Chinese on-line retailer, ThanksBuyer.com

sku-38006-0-600x600.jpg

They are pricing the bundled versions attractively.  Obviously made to compete against the APM micro 3.1

Flight controller

FC bundled with power supply

FC, power supply, GPS unit

If anyone makes the leap, perhaps you could keep us informed on your experiences.

Happy flying all!!

You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!

Join diydrones

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • I have been looking around for an answer and have tried a few things I found online with no luck.I am using a Frsky XSR in cppm mode with the Apm Pro and I can only get the first four channels working in the radio calibration.None of the switches seem to work or show up as working in Mission Planner.

  • You have all you want from Ardupilot

    http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-camera-gimbal.html#common-c...

    Camera Gimbal with Servos — Copter documentation
  • Hello everybody!

    I would like to use the stabilization provided by Mini Apm Pro for a servo gimbal. Which pins can I use? Which settings I have to do in Mission Planner?

    Thank you!

  • Thanks!!... That a super drone and multirotor forum!!..

    Ronald Pandolfi said:

    Quick answer to your question is to use the external compass as primary. Be sure to check that mission planner compass heading matches true magnetic heading for several orientations. Also performance depends on which version Pixhawk you now have. The current version is 2.4.8. The 2.4.8 is significantly better than the old 3dr Pixhawk in several respects including the connectors. The 2.4.8 has picoblade connectors whereas the old 3dr version hirose connectors. We prefer the Mini Pixhawk (Pixmini) with dupont connectors. The new Pixracer has many more improvements including better connectors. As you can tell from my response, connectors are very important as are quality of cables. 

  • If you have good ESCs, you can plug in a USB linker and update firmware and calibrate. If not, you can calibrate via Mission Planner. If the problem persists, clean the bullet connectors with hot water and soap. They sometimes have an insulating coating from rice soup used by the Chinese in the factory for food. They seem to eat and then solder at the same time. If all else fails, upgrade to a better ESC. It is a good idea to keep an extra ESC and motor on hand for diagnostics and repair. You can learn more via our website: www.KashmirWorldFoundation.org

  • I kind of thought the same, since my number 3 motor did not start to spin when the others did. I'm think it's that ESC since I swapped motors and it seemed to do the same on that arm. I've only been building & flying these for about 1 1/2 years, so not quite a newb, but not far from it. I calibrated the ESCs manually and the motors with MP and they seemed to work well then. I seem to remember having a similar problem on the last build I did with that board, which I believe was why I retired it in the first place. But I'm going to try the new ESCs and see if that does the trick. The next step after that is replacing the board with an Ardupilot 2.8.  Thanks. 

    Ronald Pandolfi said:


    Hi Ron G....It is a good idea to let people know your level of experience. Assuming you have not been flying multirotors for long, it sounds like you may have a problem with an ECS or power connector. Run a motor spin test and verify that all motors turn in the correct direction and that they all begin spinning at the same throttle setting. I like to see all motors begin spinning at a throttle setting of about 6. Then check that they are all spinning at about the same speed at a low throttle setting of about 15. If they do not, perform an ESC calibration. If you do have one bad motor, the problem is likely with one of your power connectors to the ESC. Try swapping one of the ESCs to the bad motor and see if the problem shifts to another motor with the ESC or if it stays with the motor.


    Ron G said:

    Ok, so I thought that maybe part of my problem was the props. Since I bored out the hubs to 8mm so they fit on the motors, I'm sure they weren't very balanced. Today I put the dji carbon fiber blades on, that are balanced, and put a 3300 mAh 35C battery on (reducing the weight to 1425g). However, it still went no where. It's almost like the #3 motor (top left) wasn't responding very well. At full throttle, it just sat there. I moved the sticks pitch and roll and got nothing. There was a little more movement pushing the stick to the left, but hardly any difference pushing them to the right.

    It just seems crazy to think that the APM Pro is the cause of all this. Can someone examine these logs and tell me what needs to change?


  • Hi Ron G....It is a good idea to let people know your level of experience. Assuming you have not been flying multirotors for long, it sounds like you may have a problem with an ECS or power connector. Run a motor spin test and verify that all motors turn in the correct direction and that they all begin spinning at the same throttle setting. I like to see all motors begin spinning at a throttle setting of about 6. Then check that they are all spinning at about the same speed at a low throttle setting of about 15. If they do not, perform an ESC calibration. If you do have one bad motor, the problem is likely with one of your power connectors to the ESC. Try swapping one of the ESCs to the bad motor and see if the problem shifts to another motor with the ESC or if it stays with the motor.


    Ron G said:

    Ok, so I thought that maybe part of my problem was the props. Since I bored out the hubs to 8mm so they fit on the motors, I'm sure they weren't very balanced. Today I put the dji carbon fiber blades on, that are balanced, and put a 3300 mAh 35C battery on (reducing the weight to 1425g). However, it still went no where. It's almost like the #3 motor (top left) wasn't responding very well. At full throttle, it just sat there. I moved the sticks pitch and roll and got nothing. There was a little more movement pushing the stick to the left, but hardly any difference pushing them to the right.

    It just seems crazy to think that the APM Pro is the cause of all this. Can someone examine these logs and tell me what needs to change?

  • Ok, so I thought that maybe part of my problem was the props. Since I bored out the hubs to 8mm so they fit on the motors, I'm sure they weren't very balanced. Today I put the dji carbon fiber blades on, that are balanced, and put a 3300 mAh 35C battery on (reducing the weight to 1425g). However, it still went no where. It's almost like the #3 motor (top left) wasn't responding very well. At full throttle, it just sat there. I moved the sticks pitch and roll and got nothing. There was a little more movement pushing the stick to the left, but hardly any difference pushing them to the right.

    It just seems crazy to think that the APM Pro is the cause of all this. Can someone examine these logs and tell me what needs to change?

    2016-09-12 17-52-39.log.gpx

    2016-09-12 17-52-39.bin

    https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3702298760?profile=original
  • Quick answer to your question is to use the external compass as primary. Be sure to check that mission planner compass heading matches true magnetic heading for several orientations. Also performance depends on which version Pixhawk you now have. The current version is 2.4.8. The 2.4.8 is significantly better than the old 3dr Pixhawk in several respects including the connectors. The 2.4.8 has picoblade connectors whereas the old 3dr version hirose connectors. We prefer the Mini Pixhawk (Pixmini) with dupont connectors. The new Pixracer has many more improvements including better connectors. As you can tell from my response, connectors are very important as are quality of cables. 

  • I do like you... I bought a Pixhawk and now no problems.. I got two compasses now.. Which might I use for primary compass?... Internal or external... I got a BN880 with a HMC5883L.

    Ronald Pandolfi said:

    The APM series (2.5, 2.6, 2.7, & 2.8) all use the 8bit processor. They were made in several form factors with a variety of cable connects. All will work with Mission Planner, APM Planner, Tower, and other open source Ground Control Systems that communicate over the same protocol.The 2.7 and 2.8 have substantial improvements over the 2.5 and 2.6. 

This reply was deleted.

Activity

DIY Drones via Twitter
RT @chr1sa: My talk on PX4 and FAA certification is coming up at 1:45 PST today on the PX4 Dev Summit livestream. Includes some cool new st…
Tuesday
DIY Drones via Twitter
RT @seesharp: I'm tuned into the PX4 / Dronecode free live conference. Great stuff. Microsoft AirSim talk in 10 minutes. https://t.co/0zbZ2…
Monday
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @masato_ka: 距離センサを3つとESP32を付けたラジコンカーをDonkeyCarライクにNNで自動走行。3層FC極小モデルをTensorFlow Lite for microcontrollerで動かしてる。機体は借り物でRumiCarって言います。Tenso…
Monday
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @SmallpixelCar: My car was able to go all the way autonomously until the crosswalk. It was only 100 yards from the target. What should b…
Jul 4
Liam left a comment on Agricultural UAVs
"Hi
I'm Liam from T-MOTOR. I would like to reach out to see if there is any possibility for us to work together.
We are a propulsion system manufacturer who offers motors, propellers and ESCs for all kinds of drone applications which vary from secur…"
Jun 30
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @SmallpixelCar: Smart move. The car used the shadow to guide it through the bridge. This was never in the training samples. But it learn…
Jun 30
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @SmallpixelCar: Getting closer to the target. Single camera. Untrained road. https://t.co/Wsr7RwDamj
Jun 29
Richard Cox left a comment on Australia
"Anyone in the DIYDRONES Australian subgroup based in Alice Springs, NT?
I am experimenting with Ardupilot (standard Arduplane), Pixhawk 4 FC in a 4-ch
RC "AXN Floater Jet" foamy plane..."
Jun 29
Omar Sykes left a comment on Australia
"Hi everyone, I am looking for someone who is good at drone building, repair and software in Adelaide. Please give me a call on 0477 319 219."
Jun 29
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @RoboticMasters: #donkeycar https://t.co/czuLoVRcA4
Jun 29
DIY Robocars via Twitter
https://t.co/DKQbNTbz0g
Jun 29
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @RoboticMasters: Donkey car, car car car car car car; Donkey car, car car car car car car; Donkey Car. Anyone like our tiny tiny donkey…
Jun 29
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @SmallpixelCar: After improving DBSCAN speed, I can get 11 frame per second on @NVIDIAEmbedded Jerson Xavier MAXN mode and the autonomou…
Jun 26
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @Heavy02011: Join us at next Virtual Race League: ⁦@diyrobocars⁩ Race #4 - Parking Lot Nerds, August 1st https://t.co/5KUpu7VGaH
Jun 25
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @SmallpixelCar: #CUDA implementation should be easy, because most of the time is on distance calculations berween two points and if the…
Jun 25
DIY Robocars via Twitter
RT @SmallpixelCar: This is the view from the car. Even my lanenet inference is fast on @NVIDIAEmbedded Jerson Xavier, DBSCAN clustering tak…
Jun 25
More…