ok, so I currently have setup
The Pixhawk FC
A 5V BEC
4 DJI 30 AMP ESC OPTO
4 DJI 920 Motors
TBS Discovery Plates
Spektrum DX7 for remote
Spectrum Satellite receiver plugged directly into the FC
Everything was going fun until I tried to hook the ESCs and Motors to the FC.
Now when I connect the batter to the Power Module that came with the FC the FC comes up fine but the Motors start making a beeping sound and vibrate a little, like they are trying to spin. If I unplug all the motors then no sound is present. But when I plug them back in it starts up again.
I have read things about the low throttle but I got that set below 1000 and still not working, any other suggestions?
Also with this setup do I need the BEC or can i lose it?
EDIT: Things I have tried
NOTE: When I say ESC is beeping, When I unplug the motors from the ESCs and plug everything in nothing beeps, but when I plug the motors back in, even just one, they beep. Not sure if this is normal.
1. Remove the Power Module that came with the FC and just supply straight power to the Frame (PDB build it) which powers the ESC to Motor Directly. Motors beep about every second and vibrate a little.
2. Plug Power Module in without FC behing plugged in then plug in battery. Motors still beep every second and vibrate a little.
3. Plug in battery to Power Module but not to frame let FC power up then plug in frame. Motors still beep every second and vibrate a little.
4. Plug Power Module in to battery while connected to frame. let flight controller boot up, motors still beeping and vibrating a little. Then I press and hold the saftly switch to solid red. Motors start beeping very fast.
I have read from here that the beep every second could mean Input signal abnormal and the steady beep could mean Throttle Stick is not at bottom.
I am at a lose I have been on the internet all night and found things and tried them but no luck...and now on top of that when I go to callibrate my remote the Throttle stick isnt picking up it is putting the pitch switch for both pitch and throttle and I change the channel in the settings but it just changes back. This was working before but then I rebound the remote and not its not.
any help would be awesome guys, this is my first build.
Oh I am also using Arudcopter 3.1 firmware. I read that someone had an issue when they updated and went back to 2.9 and it fixed it. Could this have something to do with it? I did change the firmware to Arduplane and has the same results.
Woot!!! The quad motors are spinning!!!
So Issue One- Remote binding Pitch stick to both Pitch and Throttle in Mission planner.
Resolution. Connect FC to the CLI console. Erase FC. Reset FC. Rebind remote and calibrate. This fixed this for me.
Issue two- ESCs Beeping
So the ESCs now beep once when i plug in the batter then after a few seconds they beep every second, this means that the ESCs are not getting a correct input signal or a input signal at all (Keep in mind im using DJI OPTO ESCs). Then if your radio is bound correctly and you set your Throttle % up to where it will be below 1000 you can press and hold the safety switch till it turns solid red. The ESCs will make a musical tone and stop beeping. Then you can arm the quad and off you go.
Most of this was due to my lack of understanding of both the Saftey switch and the ESC tones...and my noobness but I am learning and I will have this thing in the air in no time...after months of testing lol.
I hope this helps someone else, I hope to make a video or type it up better but I will post it here when I do for anyone else who is stuck like I was.
Made a quick video on what the arming process sounds and looks like, hope it helps someone else.
I'm having a similar problem with my PixHawk. I have DJI ESCs plugged into MAIN OUT 1-4. When I plug in the batter the ESCs beep steadily about once a second. When I turn hold down the safety switch, they begin beeping rapidly. I would say I wired something wrong, but it seems pretty idiot proof.
Oddly, if I plug the ESCs into the AUX OUT 1-4, they do the normal DJI beep (the good one).
In the video, the guy pushes the safety button and the ESCs make the proper musical noise. When I do this (push the switch) the ESCs begin beeping rapidly in an alarming way. I've never seen them behave this way before.
Thanks for the tip. I adjusted the travel and that seemed to do it (although I did not get it below 1000). Good thing this discussion board is here I probably wouldn't have figured that one out.
I've had the APM 2 for almost a year, so I'm somewhat familiar with all the "tuning" that has to be done with Arducopter. Unfortunately it's going to be sub zero for... ever... so I'll have to wait till Hell unfreezes before I can test this thing out. I did hover around in my sun room and it seemed to work well.
Oh sorry about that, I assumed when I shouldn't have. These are the settings I adjusted for my throttle if you need them- LINK. This made it to where the props dont spin when you arm in, just when you give it throttle, I like it this way but some may not.
That sucks you wont be able to get it out for awhile, I know i was ready to get my in the air, I hope you get it out soon!
This is so incredibly awesome. Exactly what I'm doing. Exactly your level. Expecting to spend weeks or even months to resolve the problem until I came across this. Thank you!
The only thing different about your setup and mine, is that you do not mention using a PDB. I'm using a 3dr hex pdb. My understanding is that the BEC is not needed if plug the escs directly into FC, which is powered by a completely separate batter.
Do you still use the UBEC?
For me the PDB (Power Distrubution Board) is build into the plates I am using, The TBS Discovery Plates. You just solder the ESCs directly to the plates and the battery cables as well.
I have found that I dont need the BEC with my setup. I had to do alot of digging to understand what this was used for and I think i got it. When using the Pixhawk you use the Power Module that it came with. You plug your battery into this then plug the PM into your PDB. The smaller 6 wire goes into the power slot on the Pixhawk this is the best way to get power to the pixhawk as suggested by 3DR thus not requiring a BEC. BUT if you want to run things that need 5v off of the extra back rails of the Pixhawk you need the BEC plugged into the back which will provide 5v to the back rails. I have this setup so if I want to run things off of them I can and because I already had it soldered onto the plates, I could remove it though.
Another not i could have used the plates that game with the DJI F450 kit which also have the PDB built in but I wanted the TBS plates.
Hope that helps, if you need any more help or information just let me know.
Thanks again Cody! Now your saving me $$...So I believe my problem is simply get the output of the Dx7s Thrott min to below 1000. Apparently not that easy...I got it down to 1078 using the soft travel adjust, Updating transmitter and on their blogs now...any input would helpful. Will post what I find.