This was the first fly of my baby, it was my first build, I like it because it's very strong and allows me to learn without crash damages, and a great code that support all design errors, but now I'm on a second stage, I learn somethings and now I want a more efficient cuad.

a) 20 min flying time at least (today 14 min)

b) More stability in windy days.

c) reach 1km min with r modem.

d) Resolve mag field limit.

e) Mantain the portability (no much bigger)

f) Beauty is important for me too ;)

I started this work last year (2014),

First I ligthweight as much as possible, only cup -90 grs, take away an extra floor, etc, total -200grs and reduce vibrations but I have many work to do yet and I think that a post it's the best place to share with you and recive your help, any idea is welcome.

First thing that I'm going to do to continue is to change motors, it has Turnigy 2836 950kv they are old cheap plane motors with bearings near limit with 10.47 CF props and 30A esc, I test them with my ligthest batteries two Multistar 5200 and gives 26 A consumption 

Ship weights now 1.47kgs without batteries, with FPV and Dragon receiver and this is the photo

 

 

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I labeled all and begin cutting motor wires

I didn't have enougth connectors and not have enought patience to wait another month for them so I'm used the same, I hate solder and I had to unsolder and re-solder UFFF!!!

Nothing to envy T-Motors , ehh!!!

Lot of wires and connectors removed

This my new control board, it's looks better than the first one, it's a pitty now that I didn't take any photo It looks horrible now.

As I say before, feel free to post any suggestions, I'm not an expert, only showing what I'm trying to do to have a better cuad :)

Here electronic distribution, the GPS and the compass are on the mast but I don't like very much, any better idea is welcome; the GPS don't work if the compass is higher than the gps

Today I did the first flight, I prepared that horrible extra legs to check if the copter moves as I spect, I labeled all so not error possibility but.....it was possible :O one ESC plug was in the incorrect place GLUPP!!, but the system works, I acelerate a little and move to the different sides without taking off and see the response; then I take off and fly but I have to re-tune all and night comes; I can measure 22 Amps but I have to do more test yet.

Did you do an auto tune? How long did you fly it? That's great your having success so far!! Are you flying 3.2 right? 

Nice legs Cala. lol

Hi Cala,

Sounds like your making great progress.

I think I understand reason for big legs, but I should caution you that in and windy or gusty conditions, all that vertical surface area will blow your copter around more than twice as much as if you didn't have them.

Since the leg surface area extends primarily below the copters CG, in addition to wind pushing harder on the copter, it will also cause it to try to tilt in the direction of the wind.

Your flight controller will compensate, but it will shorten flight time and use up battery faster and be tilted much more into the wind than without the legs.

It will also be somewhat harder to control in the wind.

I am glad to see you have gone to Carbon Fiber arms, aluminum bends and deforms and the holes get messed up way too easily.

Generally if something hits hard enough to damage the CF arms it ids obvious that you need to replace them.

Although I do not see a problem with yours, one thing I would caution you about is that it is very important for all motors to be pointing exactly straight up (On CF tubes they can easily be offset from vertical), slight deviations will result in diminished performance and sub-optimal flying characteristics.

There are some implementations where specific angular offsets yield slightly superior results, but they are very hard to setup correctly and provide extremely marginal improvement (if any) versus vertical.

This vertical alignment is hard to do by eyeball, but a flat table top surface and an angle square (L) set against the edge of the motor and the table top can do an acceptable job.

Best Regards,

Gary

Thank's fpr your answers, Legs are only for test correct movements of the cuad on the floor, I give little throttle and move sticks from side to side very carefull and notice if the copter is moving correctly avoiding overturning and break props, the legs helps for that because that landing gear is little unstable; when the copter responds well I take off a little and them land and remove them; if you want I can take a video to explain better the idea.

the motors was a problem , yes, I used two bubbles to align up but I didn't have enougth space to seat one on the motors because I cut the ESC part, It was usefull for that task I'm going to re-check as you explain, thank's for the tip

I fly very little yesterday afternoon, yes I have 3.2, but I don't measure flying time yet, I spect reach 20 min, my first measure was 22A with 10.000mha batteries; but I have to be shure of the motors first then, tune or autotune and them measure again, ¿Perhaps it's better that reset all the APM and become from the begining no?

This time I insisted with ESC and can calibrate them but one by one and repeating operation many times in some cases I don't know why, before that I plugged them in wrong way; now motors spin when I armed but if I move the throttle a little if not the motors try to move but they can't, only make noise trying to move.

This is my bubble tecnology, It's work on the other Tarot but here I have to fix the motors first and don't have enougth space for the bubble, I made a mistake shortening motor-esc mount but works yet, I re-check before Gary comment and one motor didn't looks perfect aligned (I was anxious to test fly when I aligned and did it very quickly)

 

What I do to test out a new set up is carefully hold the copter from below and arm it [ yes this could be dangerous ] I then apply throttle very slowly until it feels like it's about lifting it's own weight. At that point you can sort of tell by pitching and rolling it with your hand how it responds and if it's responding correctly. For instance if you have a prop on wrong you will know instantly. If the gyro's aren't calibrated right you can feel it doesn't want to stay level.  Once it seems to want to stay level and feels like it correctly responds to your hand moving it around by resisting your hand to make it out of level you'll know at least the mechanical aspects are set up okay it's ready to fly and tune. At least that's what I do... your way is probably not as dangerous. 

It feel more dangerous for me because I have less force and shorter arms than a man; this looks a solution for many girls building their diy drones now :) ; this cuad always take off from one side and I have to correct it with the stick, now it do the same perhaps a gyro problem or only not flat terrain? I have to observe that too.

This what you refer Gary?

Not an easy task, motor mount not allow to the motors get in contact with the ruler but I put a withe paper behind to observe better, It didn't look so bad.

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