Hi everyone,

I'm creating this thread to share your drone/copter information. I believe, this would help immensely for newbies like me during the initial build. For example, the Chris's blog on cheap Hobby King quad configuration is really a good resource.  

I don't want to burden anyone who is willing to share their info. Hence all fields are optional. Atleast the first 5 fields are ideal. Please find the list of fields to copy/paste at the end, so you can start filling :-). 

Here goes information about my quad.

frame: Quadcopter (3DRobotics)
controller/autopilot: APM1
esc: 20A (3DRobotics)
motors: 850Kv (3DRobotics)
propellers: 10x47, APC (3DRobotics)
motor to motor distance: -- inches

battery:  4S 3300mAh (Turnigy nano-tech)
total weight: -- lbs
flying time: 15 minutes (average)

radio: Turnigy 9X 
video/osd: none
other: Sonar, Xbee, GPS/Mag, Attopilot current sensor



Turnigy 9X: Mode1 -> Mode2 change, Li-ion battery hack





motor to motor distance: -- inches

total weight: -- lbs
flying time:


Misc (hacks/mods):


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need I say more

Flame wheel 450

AR drone

and two scratch builds

very nice octo! what is your maximum payload? (at around 50% throttle I mean)

The crash was caused due to the fact I didn't factory reset my Naze32 before using it. Everyone using the great Naze32, factory reset it before first use. Some of them have an odd bug fixed by resetting them when shipped.

So realizing that this hobby was going to be taxing my paychecks anyways, I purchased a 3D printer to save in the long run. 2 More drones using the same hardware as above, but with a battery tray designed to use either a 2200mAh Li-Po or a 5200mAh Li-Po, depending on if I want long flight or fast flight.

Hi Matthew,

Personal interest, which 3d printer did you buy and what is your experience in using it?

What products have you printed sofar?

I am interested in buy a 3D printer myself,

so when I see comments e 3D printers, I try to find

out more info from the 'man in the street'.

Thanks for sharing!



I'm Using a Print-Rite, $300 USD from hobbyking.com 210x210 non headed print bed. I do my modelling in Blender, (1 BU (Blender Unit) = 1mm). I slice using an upgraded version of the supplied Repieter-Host software. It's been fantastic once you figure out settings. Best print results are at 4mm for the first layer, then 2mm for the rest, but supports 1-4mm layers. Parts are strong.

Some great designs!

Here's my latest.

Frame: 3/1.5mm carbon fibre
FC: 3DR Pixhawk
GPS: 3DR uBlox LEA-6H
Motors: KDE DIRECT 4012XF-400
Props: Tarot T Series 1555
Motor to motor: 880mm
Battery: 4S 16000mAh 10/20C
AUW: 3780g
Flight time: 22 minutes - 80% mAh
Telemetry: 3DR 433Mhz - ImmersionRC monopole on rover, RMILEC SRC 771 on base.
Radio: FrSky Taranis - FrSky D4R-II
Camera: Sony a5100 - Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN
Shutter trigger: Mobilexcopter simple multi shutter

just an update.

I painted and antiqued the drone this weekend.  It is now on sale on Ebay.  Message me for the link so I don't break protocol with a forum's policy.

Here are the new pictures.

Drone flying

Nice work all the way through these pages. Didn't see this until after I put mine on its own new post. 

This is going to be called the Suitcase drone.  I am calling it this because of the shaped of the handle on top.  I have never made a folding drone before.  I thought that by making it out of wood it would not only look really cool, but the reason I used wood was because it was the only material I had on hand without having to order any acrylic.

The plan is to use to 935kv motors, 20 amp skinny blheli escs, 6 channel receiver, 8045 props.  The total weight should come in around 1200 grams.  I can fly a drone that weighs that much with the same dimensions.  It is in the very beginning stages.  I am using foam to create friction between the motor arms and the body plates.  This has worked out pretty good so far.  It keeps the arms straight and rigid enough, yet it does not affect it when putting the arms into the folded position.  Using nylon studs as supports keeps the weight down.

The wood was cut out by a bandsaw and sanded into their relative shapes.  A drill press was used to drill out the holes. 

So far all that is built is the frame.  I am waiting on some more parts to come in the mail.  Should be a good design if it flies.

As with all my designs it begins in a program called Inventor.  This allows me to work out any problems with the design, and let me cutout 1 to 1 ratio templates.

I like to layout what will be used on the frame to understand how to fit it all together and how to fasten them.  Sometimes I may drill out new holes or oversize some to get just the right fit for the pins or bolts.  Using this information, I add it back into the 3d model on Inventor for future changes.

This pictures shows the shaker pegs I used as landing gear.  The legs are sprayed with a rubber coating to give it that rubber feel and look.  Worked out better than I hoped.

Short video of my pixhawk / 300 nighthawk build

she fast and very stable. 


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