Hi everyone,

I'm creating this thread to share your drone/copter information. I believe, this would help immensely for newbies like me during the initial build. For example, the Chris's blog on cheap Hobby King quad configuration is really a good resource.  

I don't want to burden anyone who is willing to share their info. Hence all fields are optional. Atleast the first 5 fields are ideal. Please find the list of fields to copy/paste at the end, so you can start filling :-). 

Here goes information about my quad.

frame: Quadcopter (3DRobotics)
controller/autopilot: APM1
esc: 20A (3DRobotics)
motors: 850Kv (3DRobotics)
propellers: 10x47, APC (3DRobotics)
motor to motor distance: -- inches

battery:  4S 3300mAh (Turnigy nano-tech)
total weight: -- lbs
flying time: 15 minutes (average)

radio: Turnigy 9X 
video/osd: none
other: Sonar, Xbee, GPS/Mag, Attopilot current sensor



Turnigy 9X: Mode1 -> Mode2 change, Li-ion battery hack





motor to motor distance: -- inches

total weight: -- lbs
flying time:


Misc (hacks/mods):


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If you are referring these[1] motors I'm sure you meant 2 4S batteries in parallel? 

[1] http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=...

James, I'm sure you mean running the 4S in parallel.  Don't run them in serial, you will likely fry your esc and motors.

frame :     Turnigy Talon V2 Quadcopter frame
controller/autopilot: APM2, default parameter
motors:  Turnigy C2830-1050
esc:     Turnigy Plush 18A
propellers: GEMFAN 12X4.5
battery:  Zippy Flightmax 3S1P 4000mAh 20C
flying time: NA
radio:     Futaba 617F
video/osd: NA
other: 1.4Kg weight

Misc (hacks/mods):
The original carbon plates are removed and replaced by 140mm GF circle plates.

Wiring harness, four ESC's and BEC are packed into 24mm gap of two plates. 
Motor to motor distance becomes 585mm.
Start with Master Airscrew propeller 10x6 provides poor performance.
12 inch propellers far better lift for this quad.

Nice build Jiro!. Couple of questions :-)

1. From where did you buy the props? I see a lot of reviews saying it is almost good as APC but cheaper.

2. How strong the frame (why the mod of GF plates)? Does those arms are kept on a plane just by using those arm connectors (to face plate). I feel like single point of contact is not enough. 



Hi Ruwan

Actually, aluminum holders may not be strong as you mentioned. Two studs are connecting to bottom plate, this concept from original Turnigy Talon V2. You can see the picture bellow. I need consider additional retainers for the carbon tubes, or new landing gear from center plate.

GEMFAN props might get from jDrones. Always getting props from may resources, such as 3DRobotics, Hobby city, AeroQuad and so on. Anyway, it is very difficult to get pusher type props in Japan:P 


frame: xAircraft Hexa diy
controller/autopilot: APM2
motors: 2212 1000kv
esc: 20A Hobbywing
propellers: 10x45, Gemfan

battery: 3S 4000mAh (Turnigy)
flying time: 12 minutes (average)
radio: Futaba 7C
video/osd: none
other: Sonar MB1200
Futaba 7C: Mixing Channels 5 and 7 for 6 flight modes


Just thought I'd add this one here... this is a frame designed by some blokes down under... very nice.


I'm new to this forum and this seems to be the ideal place to start.  Just finished my quad (first build) and have had it up and flying.  Very stable from the get go and I think this has a lot to do with spending adequate time and attention to detail during the build process.

My specs:

Frame:  Own creation

Controller/autopilot:  APM1

Motors:  E-flite 480's 910kv

Esc:  E-flite  Pro 40amp

Propellers:  12x4.7

Battery: 3s 3300mah

Flying time:  approx. 10 mins

Radio: JR xg7 2.4ghz

Video/OSD:  None

Can anyone tell me how the aluminium protective dome might affect the 2.4ghz signal?   I haven't flown it out far enough yet since I'm still learning to fly it properly. 



My name is James and I am new to UAV's.  I had a previous post, but since I made many changes to my drone I decided to post again with new pictures.  I purchased my drone from FPVpilot.com and for the most part I love it.  I changed the booms from C section to square tubing (with rubber grommets between the boom and main frame), mounted the motors using X mounts dampened with neoprene rubber washers, changed the landing gears for something of my own design using 3/4" aluminum flat bars (hand bent to V shape and dampened). 

Frame: FPVpilot.com (with some modifications)

Autopilot: APM 2 purple complete

Motors: RC Timer BC2836 880 kv

ESC: RC Timer 30 amp programmable

Props:  APC 10 X 4.7 Slow Flyer

Battery: Sky 4s 5000mAh (2 in parallel)

Flight Time: 20 minutes (3.6v low)

Radio: Futaba 7c 2.4 ghz

Cameras: Gopro HD2 and Tachyon Ops (rear facing)

Here's a link to view my hexahere


Hi Marc

I bought the Hunter Vtail frame :http://vizionair.fr/droneshop/fr/droneshop/433-dialfonzo-hunter-vta...

They claim that you need either a Vtail  Or Y4 mode (Multiwii FC) do you think that it could work with the APM2  without entering into the code ? I am not an expert in programming !!



Jean Louis

Hello Jean-Louis,

According to APM2 wiki, there is no Y4 option for the board. 

You may choose X configuration but due to the V-Tail geometry and Yaw control method (torque differential),  Yaw effect is inverted (V-Tail traction work more than torque) and I saw no option to reverse it with the config tool.

With the MultiWii Soft you can reverse Yaw in the Config setup. There is also an Y4 setup working fine with the V-tail option.

Unless you dig in the code and upload the firmware with arduino tool, APM2 is not the best option for Y4 V-Tail copter. No problem with my Y6 config but I have a custom hardware setup working with the APM2 Y6 firmware without code modification.


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