Hello everyone,

Ok I am new soldering but after watching a few you tube video I seemed to have figured it out. My question is:

1) how do you know if the soldered worked? Is there a way to test each pin?

2) I was using "lead free" solder for half the board before I was told that I need to use a "rosin" solder. Do I have to redo the first half?

Battery question.

1) I purchased the "zippy" 3cell 11.1v 5000mah battery is that right for the arducopter?

2) the connectors on this battery do not match so do simply cut the ends off and solder new ones.


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I don't think the type of solder matters, provided the joint was made properly. Using a multimeter's continuity setting is the easiest way to check a solder joint. Put one probe on the pin and the other on on a connected solder pad, the multimeter should beep if continuous.

The battery you've selected sounds reasonable. You can change the connector by cutting off the old one and soldering on the new. Be very careful not to short the battery when doing this, you'll end up with sparks/fire and damage the battery.
Jason take a magnifying glass and examine you solder joints, if they look smooth like in the YouTube videos you watched you should be ok.
The battery should be ok. You need to standardize on one type of connector for you batteries. Then nyou need to solder a new connector on one of the connections. If you change the battery connector be carefully to finish and cover one cable with shrink tube before you work on the second cable. Otherwise you may end up with a big spark and a ruined battery.


Indeed.  Cut 1 wire of your battery at a time, don't cut both + and - wire at the same time, cause your scissors will create a short.

When soldering, you should see the liquid solder flow around the pin and sinking in the hole.  If it's then shiny when solidified, it should be a good solderjoint.  Heat the pin (at the short end), not the solder.  Then hold the solderwire against the hot pin to let it melt and flow around the pin and into the hole and on the solderpad.

Lead Free solder just requires a higher temperature to melt.  60/40 tin/lead melts around 200-degrees(f).  Depending on the alloys used to replace the lead, the melting point will be as high as 250- to 300-degrees(f).  This can lead to "cold" solder joints.

"Rosin core" and "Lead Free" are not related issues.

The rosin core reduces the oxidation of the solder (oxidation makes poor joints).  It also makes the solder "flow" better into the joint.  If the work "puffs" smoke while soldering, then you have a rosin core solder and the puffs of smoke are the rosin boiling off.  What u4eake said - if the joint is shiny when it cools, then you likely have a good solder joint.

Radio Shack has a beginners soldering kit.

That battery will do just fine and will provide good flight time. The connector that comes on the battery is matched to the current it can deliver which is probably more than you need in this situation. Replacing the connector on the battery is one way to get it to work (just don't use it where more current is needed than the connector can deliver) or you could solder up an adapter to go between the two connectors so you can use the battery in higher current applications down the road.

thanks for the advice, and I did one at a time.  Seems to have worked out.  I really like the rosin as it seem to work easier.



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