Trying To Find the right Battery for the Ardu HexaCopter B - Frame

Hey everybody, I'm new here. Just got my first multi rotor and I am completing the build. I can't exactly figure out what Lipo batteries to use. I'm flying an Arducopter Hexa copter b - frame. I'm using  Ac2836-358 880 KV motors with ESC's 20 amp 5v made by 3drobotics.  Any help would be appreciated. 

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You went with the big motors, so you'll probably want a pretty big battery. I'd suggest somewhere between 3600mah and 4000mah.

Thanks Chris. 

I went with the big motors so I could shoot aerial videography with the Sony CX760. After some research I found these Glacier 4s 4000 mah 30c batteries. Any thoughts?

For what it's worth, with the same build (3DR Hexa-B, 880KV motors, 3DR ESCs, GoPro on board), I'm using Turnigy 4000mah 3S 40-50C batteries. I only have a few flights on each battery but so far so good. I've been self-imposing a 10 minute limit per flight because I don't have any voltage or current monitor set up yet and I'm playing it safe. That leaves a fair amount of charge on the battery after each flight and the battery stays cool. For example:

I have the Model A hex and with a 2200mAh 3s battery, it flies for about 6-minutes.  They were cheap and it was good to have a few charged while learning to fly.  A 5000mAh battery gives me a bit over 12 minutes flight time.

I STRONGLY recommend that you get a Battery Alarm and a good balance charger.

Your choice of battery is a compromise of weight and endurance.  The more weight you carry, like a heavy camera, will require larger batteries to get reasonable flight time.

I use 2x Turnigy nano-tech 5000mah 4S 35~70C Lipo Pack which are also available in HobbyKing's US warehouse. They're fantastic batteries and support up to 8C charging rates.

Hi Oliver,

I'm new to this but I'm wondering why you have a 35C battery? Doing the math, 35*5000mAh = 175A and the 3DR has 6x20 Amp ESC so the max current it can draw is 120A. Isn't overkill having a 35C battery? Price difference between a 25C and a 35C is not insignificant.



$53.96 -> 25C
$53.90 - 35C ->

So yes it is insignificant. Also it's good to have headroom and not push your Lipo batteries to their limits.

Personally I upgraded to a UAP1 copter in a Y6 formation after destroying my 3DR frame. It's uses Sunnysky 2814-11 and HobbyKing F-30A ESCs flashed with SimonK's firmware, plus now carries a UG-1 gimbal with either a Canon T2i (550D) or Sony NEX-5n. Hoverpoint is around 65% throttle, so I'm very quickly pulling 120A. That said, I'm flying with 2x 4S's in parallel, so it should only be pulling half that from each battery. Good to note as I do have a couple 25C 4S Lipos in the mix.

Side note: many parts of the 3DR frames are quite well thought out, but they are quite weak and you will most likely destroy the landing gears and bend all the arms quite quickly if you are just starting out. That said, 3DR provides all the parts you need and great documentation and you can always just email them when you get stuck. They're support staff is excellent.

Thanks Oliver. Great answer. Always good to learn :)

No worries. Good hunting ;)

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