That's a bold statement ... Worlds Best. But it's even larger than that. Not just Worlds Best, but best for most all applications less than 30 Amps (limit of the tests). That means:
- duration ships that only pull 2 to 8 amps per rotor
- most all 6S and smaller ships (exception of nano-ships)
- any-size FPV racer
- any other ship in between
Why almost any size? Shouldn't a small FPV racer use a smaller and lighter ESC for response? Yes, if it does better on a net-lift response test. In other words, when you penalize the ESC for it's weight, is it still better and faster? What i continue to see is ESC manufacturers downsizing critical components of the ESC at a net loss. They weight savings is lost because of greater thrust loss and response. In other words, this heavier ESC will out accelerate, in the real world, a smaller and lighter ESC.
Why post this? To move technology forward, we need to report to industry what works and what doesn't. For some reason (i don't know why), this ESC works better than all others tested:
- for generating maximum thrust from the motor***
- for net-lift efficiency or the grams of weight it can lift (after it lifts the rotor) per watt
- for response (how fast it can generate targeted lift)
These tests were conducted on multiple days on multiple rotors of highly variant size, always being immediately compared back to another DYS 40A multicopter test to ensure that the baseline wasn't changing.
The ESC that dominated is a DYS 40A OPTO Multicopter using SimonK. The photo is included because there are two others that carry a similar or same name.
- Not the white cover DYS BLHeli 40A
- Not the one that is says "Programmable" versus "Multicopter" in the blue/purple band across the front
Have i tested all ESCs? No, but if you are convinced you know of one that would work better, let me know. I've tested most all of the following and one or more of their variants:
To do a test like this, a highly repeatable and finite test stand is needed. It took a while to develop one but what works is one that:
- measures (at a minimum) volts, amps, thrust, motor temp (shoots IR up the aft end of the motor)
- eliminates harmonics between the rotor and load sensor (this proved difficult but achievable)
- is calibrated and proves repeatable within 1.5%
- controlled by a system that can precisely repeat a rotor test (uses a Audurino Mega)
- directly feeds the data into Excel for analysis (uses DATAQ)
- uses a test script that produces repeatable results
- uses a test procedure that minimizes repeatability error (used average of multiple tests)
How much better is this ESC? On average:
- 4.4% higher net lift (after it lifts itself)
- 2.3% more net-lift efficient (usually the larger the better)
- from more than twice the response or the same response as other ESCs (usually the larger the better)
So how to make it better?
Step 1: Strip it naked. See photo below.
... remove the cover
... remove the heat plate (better to locate the ESC under prop wash to run cooler, see below)
Step 2: Right-Size the bullet connectors or wires (see above where heavy wires are replaced by 2mm bullets)
... remove the large bullet connectors or wires
... replace them with ones that are the most net-lift efficient (where heat loss = weight loss)
Step 3: Seal the ESC. Seal it with Electrical Sealant to protect from moisture and conductive dust
... tape or plug connectors and wires
... repeatedly spray each side from different angles
... a mistake i made was not sealing the bullet connectors and solder
- don't tape them off like i did
- insert a male connector into the end of bullets so sealant doesn't get inside them
Step 4: Locate ESCs under Prop Wash. See photos below. The turbulence generated by the prop does not adversely affect lift when the ESC is placed on edge to the prop wash.
... Use something non-conductive like hot glue to bond the ESCs to the motor mast or spar
... Face the FETS (the little square warehouses or Fire Emitting Transistors) to open air
... Protect the ESCs from below from ground contact (not needed here because of clearance)
back-side with hot glue
front-side with FETs completely exposed to open prop wash
Step 5: Tie up wiring. Use dental floss to secure wiring away from the prop.
***Note: The T-motor Air 40 in high-timing mode (an option) generated higher thrust, but at the sacrifice of efficiency and motor temp. Also, the T-Motor Air 40 was 2nd best and close in performance. If you are using an Air40, it probably isn't worth switching.
Some people have forms of autism. This is not their fault. They deserve to be understood. Their views have a right to be written. Autism is simply a brain that is brilliant in some manners but usually lacking in understanding social cues.
I remember working with one young lad. The first thing he said was, "I have autism". While his words surprised me, it allowed me to mind set how he might interact, which made working with him much easier. Maybe more will learn to do that
I do not mind caustic discourse as long as there is a delicious fruit to be plucked from the lye. But, when the discourse is caustic and lacking value ... I take the lead from JoeBob and use the wonderful function DIYDrones offers in listing the person's name first ... as we also have a right to choose what we read. An interesting side note on Autism is that conflict makes them feel alive, but is at the same time harmful. So i'll do my best to help and not harm.
We understand you, and it is OK.
Thank's Forrest, always instructive, as you say, I have friends with problems too, but I know them and all It's ok, I can understand when they are trespassing a bad moment, shure the correct explanation; I'm going to inspect DD function too; many thank's.
This battery is 6000mah, or 6Amps max discharge rate (1C). Even for a light quad this is too low. If you get two in parallel, you'll get to 12A which is also too low. To give you an idea, for a light quad flying more than an hour (voltage will go down, amps consumption will go up), you 'll start at about 10ish amps consumption and will end up at 15ish amps. So that means you'd need three in parallel, but then you are getting sub-optimized for the weight of the battery (3x525g = more than 1500gr for a battery capable of outputting 18 amps which is oversized by 3 amps)
You'd have a better performance with a self made 4S5P assembly of individual Panasonic 18650 Li-Ion cells (at 48gr per cell), so total weight for the battery of 960gr. (4S is lighter than 6S, obviously)
Hehe, took me a bit to figure it out, but I think it's supposed to be a Mars rover. Perhaps the designer never got their graphic design merit badge...
Wow, Mr. Jack___ sure can de-rail a useful conversation with the best of 'em!
@Darius, the carbon footprint caused by the energy you expend typing this drivel just killed a baby seal... Please stop killing baby seals... just stop.
Did he have to look up 'solace', 'riposte', and 'drivel'?
I'm not as nice a person as Forrest is.
Matt: You made me spew beer on my keyboard! My son is gonna copy your 'baby seal' line on some of his friends.
The 'wet noodler'?
Dare he? Us? Jack off?
Read that fast 3 times.
Okay. Now I have a real problem with the 'wet noodler'.
He is giving bad advice to a newbie who has no idea that he's being fed manure by a horse's ass:
"Manual control is fuzzy logic based." No poop, Pedro!
What should I do? Moderators?
Maybe he's an AI that somebody is testing on this site.
could be as it looks quite robotic (borderline idiotic). In case of an AI it requires some improvements.
Other possibility : it is an alien using an automated traduction interface.
don't be silly,
read power dissipation data for Mosfets by Fairchild first to discuss
if Al heat sink is ok or is not ok.
Who is no one ?
I have studied heat pipe physics, contruction, design by the last 10 years.
Heat pipe is exactly the best technology solution to get heat out of closed cavity like plastic wrapped ESC.
Price of small, smart heat pipe is down to just few bucks.
Flat fun cooller is exactly another smart colling technology known from laptops.
Low energy consumption, highly effictive, low cost.
3M doesn't offer any sealant for PCB board, Mosfet,
since it's exactly against technology standards in electronical engineering, electronics, to seal Mosfet with low thermal conductivity
sealant by 3M.
This is the most stupid idea ever discussed on the public forum
to limit low power dissipation Mosfet by Fairchild with
low thermal conductivity sealant by 3M.
If your idea is to crash many drones assembled by amateurs, hobby users and you are paid to market and sell 3M sealant and make Fairchild sick with burn out Mosfet recalls,
so ok, you are exactly correct.
Good job done.
Sealant by 3M has been exactly developed not to be easily cleaned.