I've been performing some flight tests using two batteries and I'm just not getting what i was expecting. I am hoping other Y6 users can chime in with their battery/flight times, and see if i'm really off.. or if this is what is expected. Lastly, most importantly.. what can I do to increase flight time? It would be a goal of mine to achieve 20minutes.

Battery 1: Turnigy nano-tech 5000mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack

Approx 8minutes.

Batttery 2: ZIPPY Flightmax 5800mAh 3S1P 30C

Approx 10 minutes.

Using 850kv 3DR blue motors. Long Range Telemetry module. Dragonlink for Radio. Carrying Tarot 2D gimbal (+200g) no camera for these tests.

Attached images of flight times and VCC/volt data.

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Need to be careful what I say here - but we need much higher watts per kilo from the cells. It's coming...but it's still in the labs.

I'm not sure I understand the units of "mA per minute".  Can you explain more?

My Y6 draws about 25A in a calm-wind hover, with GoPro and the weight of a 5Ah/3S battery.  I need to measure the AUW to have something we can use for real comparison.

It seems like those two metrics (AUW and Current Draw in Hover) are the most useful in comparing the efficiency of our Y6 ships.  I'm very interested in alternate prop configurations.. currently flying the six matched props from 3DR but eager to experiment.


37A sounds really high for a hover current draw.  Mine is close to 25, and 60+ in full climb.

I like the idea of parallel battery packs.  Taking it further, the cheap 2200mAh/3S zippy packs in triplicate would be interesting to try, and allow for some unique mounting options (spread out).

One quick comment on Raph's original post.. I noticed he said "Turnigy nano-tech 5000mAh 3S 25-50C" pack.

I have this exact battery and found it to be a terrible disappointment.. worse in performance than the zippy 5000 packs that cost less.  I have discharge plots from the battery analyzer I can post later, but really underwhelming.  I was expecting more 'tech'.


Maybe you have an under performing pack? I have two of the Turnigy and they definitely give more power as compared to my 5800 zippys. Specially for those burst of full, or close to full throttle. These are my first 3S Lipos ever purchased, so i really don't have much else to compare to.

Here's a 150 Watt (constant power) discharge showing two Zippy 5000 packs:

#T5000.3S.30/15021 Turnigy 5000mAh 3S 30C

And one Turnigy "nano-tech" 

#N6000.3S.25/20681 Turnigy nano-tech 6000mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack.

Note that the nano-tech is supposed to be a 6Ah pack, and barely outpaces the 5Ah.  This doesn't really help the OP, but just highlights why I am unimpressed with 'non-tech' in this sample of one.


I get about the same with my quadcopter

I was looking into this battery 3S 8400mah 40C Constant / 80C Burst - anyone tried it or use anything close?


It's 641 grams, which might be over the capacity/weight reward curve.

I'd be curious to hear more from people using >5Ah batteries on a Y6.  Where's the sweet spot?  I seem to be best around 5Ah/3S.  I have a 4Ah/4S but then realized it won't work with my 12v LED strips directly.    I'm curious to know if higher voltage would have lower less or lower magnetic interference (from reduced current).

That's definitely my main concern.. But how can you know without testing? Hoping someone here has already before taking the plunge ;p

I fly mosly with a 5800 3s, weighing in at 425, giving me 9 to 10 minutes. Flies great. Ecalc shows a hover time increase of about 5 minutes with the 8400mah 40-80c, which would be nice. Wishful thinking, perhaps..

OK I've tried two different batteries now with not great results.

The first was a 4s 6000mAh 20-30C battery. Flew to 20% remaining which was about 6 mins.

The next was a 3s 4500mAh 65-130C Nano "A-Spec" battery. It flew for 4 mins and whilst it had plenty in reserve, it couldn't get the frame off of the ground. Just working on how many mA were used in each test.

The weight of the frame (no camera yet) is 1.5Kg (almost on the nose).

Is there something I'm doing wrong? I'm using the 880kV motors and the props that came with the kit.

OK I feel a little embarrassed. The information is a little hidden but I believe that I could be heating the ESCs and wasting power as I've left all 6 of the ESC power connections (servo connection from the ESC to the PDB) connected. I'm assuming this means that each ESC is fighting with the others to maintain a particular voltage on the BEC... especially when they are under different loads. Can someone confirm that you're only supposed to have one +5v connection from the ESCs and to cut all of the others?

I'm referring to the following line on this page:

Power Module and using Servos with External BEC power


  • When connecting your ESCs to the OUTPUT connector clip the BEC power leads on each ESC’s 3 wire connector.
    • Or connect only the ESC signal wires to the OUTPUT connector.

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