Awww yes finally time to do some PID tuning. After my last field test it was clear I needed to replace my motors with better quality ones and do some more PID tuning. After making a few mods to the airframe for added support and installing the new Jdrones Purple 2830 /12, 850kv motors with 10x4.7 props it was time to start testing again. In the first part of the video the quadcopter wobble front to back ( I was making it do this with the elevator stick) then get stuck at 45 degree, this is when I chopped the trottle and have a rough landing. This was from setting the D to low .09 is way to low. The last hover is with the PID settings below.
So far my best luck has been with this setting. But, I still think there is room for improvement.
The Yaw is stable, but not very responsive to what tell it to do.
Roll & Pitch P =( .3) I = (.024) D = (.13) Yaw P=(.505) I=(.007) D=(.085)
After being stuck dead in the water for 6 wks waiting for a new Tx.... Today was the day to do some real testing. The weather was almost perfect, little gusty but not to bad. I did some rough PID tuning in the garage late last night, and soldered the 3 Gyro pads. It still wants to drift and the YAW might just need some PID-Tuning to get it acting right. The front Left motor with all the vibration must be replaced. I can really tell in the video that the copter is fighting with it as well as the gustyness and the YAW + Drift. Right before the Crash I had almost full forward stick but nothing was happening. Then soon as I let off the stick it freaked out. The Quad frame worked out as intended. Protected the electronics from hard landing / crash. I would rather destroy the chassi than the electronic's. So now time for new motors, and a stronger frame.
I'm currently waiting for my new Tx in the mail and will be doing a video.
You can use either a "P" or "N" channel Mosfet will work. This curcuit works better than the Crowbar curcuit because it doesn't need a fuse, and with less of a voltage drop. "N" channel Mosfets are more common to find and be to used. I have decieded to just make a reverse polarity connector instead of Modding the radio for a now. I removed the charge port connector from the radio to use as passage way for my wiring.
I used a balance connector to connect to the 11.1v Lipo.
I removed the Tx charge connector and enlarged a whole for the wiring to pass through.
Finished it up with some Velcro to hold the battery. I have already noticed with a 1600mAh 11.1 LiPo my battery life has increased by 2 to 3 or more hrs. SWEET!
Even better protection using both a mosfet and a charge pump IC.
August 3-5, 2011 • San Diego, California WaveForum Developers Conference Join them in San Diego in August for the sixth annual WaveForum developers conference. The three-day event will feature over 25 different technical sessions covering a variety of technical topics.
This diagram shows the difference between bearing, relative bearing and heading.......all in degrees magnetic.
Heading is not always the direction an aircraft is moving. That is called 'course'. Heading is the direction the aircraft is pointing. The aircraft may be drifting a little or a lot due to a crosswind.
Bearing is the angle in degrees (clockwise) between North and the direction to the destination or nav aid.
Relative bearing is the angle in degrees (clockwise) between the heading of the aircraft and the destination or nav aid.
Here's a link showing an aircraft on a heading of 350° with a relative bearing to the station of 145°. The station's bearing is 135° from North based on where the aircraft is, but since the aircraft is heading 10° left or West of North, that angle must be added to 135°.
This video show that the controller working for the first time. !!!!!Awesome!!!!!!
I could barely keep a wheelie up and going before I started using my controller.
Tuning the code a little more before the ride. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ever since I was a kid I wanted to ride wheelies. So I built a Arduino Wheelie Controller and started enjoying longer, safer wheelie'ing. I use an Arduino Duemilanove ATMEGA 328 to control a LARGE digital servo powered with a homemade servo power curcuit, coupled to a hydraulic hand brake. The handbrake is connected to a steel braded brake line that runs down and connects in place of the rear hydraulic brake reservoir. The controller uses a triple axis accelerometer and a single axis gyro to calculate when and how much brake to apply. This controller can be used on 4wheelers and motorcycle with rear disc brakes.
2.) Triple axis accel & single axis gyro "Black Box"
3.) Power supply for LARGE servo
4.) LARGE DIGITAL High speed & Torque servo w/ metal gears
I connected my servo to a handbrake like this one and mounted it under the rear fender. >>>>>>>
I used this adapter to connect my handbrake to the rear brake master cyclinder.
Although it was a short lived flight it was fun. I always enjoy flying with my Pops, what makes it better is that I have both video from the ground and onboard the aircraft. This helps identify what mistakes I made and why I had an unsecessful fight.
Over wieght .........aircraft not me LOL!!
I was flying to LOW
I was flying to SLOW
I was facing the sun
As I almost start my downwind as AirCraft stalls to the inside. I try to roll left but it's to late and not enough power to pull out of it. Watch my Airspeed drop right before I stall.
This was at about 4am when i solved the last bug and it wanted to hover.
Like my painters tape Battery Straps... I found some velcro later.
This is a fasttrack guide for building an ArduPilot Mega QuadCopter. If you have already started or are about to start building a QuadCopter this guide is ment to be used as a reference to help fill in the blanks with your build and first setup.
1.) Remember SAFETY First, Always Remove Propellers when working with the quadcopter powered on the bench. Proppellers can cause serious injury to You, others, small childern, and animals. Remember not to forget to read up on Lipo Safety, Don't burn your house down!!! LiPo Batteries are great batteries if used correctly.
After building your QaudCopter bench testing is a great way to determine the QuadCopters true power consumption needs. An Amp Meter can be used to verify that the battery(s) are opperating with in a safe "C" range. Before you start flying around with your QuadCopter you should test your battery time on the bench to get an average idea of how long your batteries will last. Setting the transmitter count down timer will help remind you when to land. Only if you remember to start it. :) My rule of thumb is land before the battery(s) get to low. Low voltage battery alarms are a great way to help protect your batteries and your aircaft form power failure.
Square Aluminun tubing 1/16"' thick x 3/4'' x 3/4''
1/16" x 1/2" Flat Stock
1/16" x 4"x4" Plate
Secured together with 5/32" Rivets and Silicone in between.
24'' between motors
Frame only Weight: 350g
This Frame is more on the tough side, i added Lightening holes to help lower the weight. The Lightening holes only subtracted about 30g of weight... My next frame I pan on using carbon fiber arrow shafts and curcuit prefboard in hopes of creating a strong and even lighter frame. Less weight = Longer flight times.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!REMOVE PROPS until you are ready to fly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This video will help you Balance your Props
Warning!!!!!!!!!! Do Not Install Props!!!!!!!
Model: TR28-22B-1400 Max Eff: 5A Max Load: 8A Kv: 1400 Weight: 36g Pull: 100~450g Prop: 8x4 or 9x5 Voltage: 6~9v Length: 23mm Power: 70W+
9 x 5 Propeller
QuadCopter ready to fly weight 990g
These motors are great!! During bench testing each motor measured 5 amp's with a total of 20 amp's constant with all 4 motors @ a hover and climbing to 26 amp's with sudden throttle burst. After a 7 min hover around the motors stayed very cool. The only down side to these motors is that you need to buy 6 to make sure you get 4 really good ones. One of my motors has loose bearings and vibrates really bad sometimes. I also recommend getting at least one extra motor just in case you crash. Don't for get props too... :)
Watch and listen to this motor vibrate on takoff.!!!!!!!!
How to correctly connect motors the first time with this setup is easy. Use the identifiers to help u connect each motor. Each motor has 3 wires Black, Red, Yellow, Each ESC has 3 wires all red but labled at the ESC "A,B,C".
Start with the Front & Rear motors3 Front & 4 Back
"A" wire from esc connects to RED wire on motor
"B" wire from ESC connects to BLACK wire on motor
"C" wirre from ESC connects to YELLOW wire on motor
When connected correctly front and rear motors should spin
in the same direction Clockwise "CW"
Left & Right motors 1 LT & 2 RT
"A" wire from esc connects to BLACK wire on motor
"B" wire from ESC connects to RED wire on motor
"C" wirre from ESC connects to YELLOW wire on motor
The left and right motor should also spin in the same direction as eachother but in counter clockwise "CCW"
Connecting ESC's to Main Power connecter
I recommend soldering these connection for many reasons.
Cheap than buying connectors
Connectors can fail
Connectors are heavy
Connecting the ESC's together is pretty straight forward
RED to RED
BLK to BLK
Use a battery pack to verifiy you have connected the wires to the battery connector the correct way afterwards.
Use heatshrik and electrical tape to protect the connections from contacting.
As we all know the Turnigy 9c is a great radio for the $54 price @ Hobby King and is very user friendly. I want to warn everyone about acidently connecting the battery backwards, BE VERY CAREFUL if you connect the battery backward and turn on the Tx you will destroy it immediately. This Radio Tx does not have a fuse that can be replaced.
I had my radio 4 days. I wanted to use a LiPo battery pack instead of the "AA" holder that came with it. I some how managed to reverse the polarity and blew the CJ78L05 voltage regulators to peaces. The wiring on the main processor board even melted and smoked. So now after salvaging the switches, potentiometers and LCD display, my brand new Turnigy 9c Tx radio is in the trash and the quadcopter just sits there lifelessly waiting............. So during the next month or longer while I wait for the 2nd new Turingy 9c radio I'm gonna figure out how to incorporate a fuse into the new transmitter so that this never happens again. Sorry no pics!!!