3689409760?profile=originalTo commemorate the GREAT flying code of 2.0.19, I put my CNC machine to work to cut me a new frame.  As always, I spent a few hours making sure everything looks good, and that it goes together nicely.  To do that, I used Solidworks!  I spend quite a few hours designing the frame (as you can see not entirely my design), modifying and making changes.  When I had it all the way I wanted, I then created toolpaths for my CNC machine, and I cut the whole thing out of G10 (Garolite) about.06inches thick.  The whole frame came in at about 320 grams (just the frame with glue off course), which is not bad.  A little on the heavy side, but for the strength I get out of G10, I am willing to sacrifice!

 

You can see the computer screen of the model above.

 

Yes, I even went as far as modeling the motors, and the props....had to, to see how it would look!

After some hours of cutting (had to use a very small bit, at about 20 IPM for the speed) this is what it looks like now:

3689409672?profile=originalAnd here are a few more shots and close-ups of the oilpan and Xbees, GPS, Etc....

3689409738?profile=original3689409697?profile=original3689409874?profile=original

Some details:

-As you can see on the legs, there is a 1.2Ghz TX, and in between the legs is a CCD Killer camera, for FPV (using the Fat Shark Goggles).  Battery on the other side of the legs runs the FPV system, and it is a small 3S LiPo.  Main battery as you can see, is below the legs.  The next step, and currently in solidworks, is the Camera Gimbal, which will sit below the copter, in a shock-mount with a titl/roll servo setup for video.  That is next.  Receiver is a Frsky 2.4Ghx two-way telemetry unit, and I am using a modified Futaba 9c for my radio.

 

-Props are 11x4.7 tractor/pusher pairs from APC.  I was thinking of using 12x3.8, but I think that will over-prop the motors.  The motors are Cobra outrunners (new on the scene, and I wanted to give them a try).  They are 2217 at 960KV.  VERY well made, and I can really see the difference in the way they run, when compared to $14 turnigy from HK.  These were about $40/per, which is not all the bad.  They do get a little warm when I land and check them, since again, I think an 11in prop is a tad too big...but I get about 1000g lift/per motor...so I can probably lift a stray cat out of the neighborhood! LOL! One thing though, the mounts where a little big, so again, I cut new mounts on my CNC out of G10, and that solved that!  ESC's are turnigy Plush, 30A.

-The frame is a monster...it has 27inch span between motors...and I designed it around the ACM, with a special cage in the middle, that protects the electronics (again cut the mounts out of G10).  You can probably see this (I used blue G10) in the pictures above.  The GPS as well, is protected, encased on the upper part, so even if I flip it, no electronics will come in contact with the ground.  I painted it using regular automotive spray paints, after I gave some of the G10 parts a light sanding, so it sticks better.

 

-I get about 6 minutes + on a 3000mAh LiPo 3S.  I will probably go to a 4S, or run a couple in parallel in the future...we shall see, depending on how I use this thing.  I also have a strip of LED's under the arms, with a brushed ESC to control them.  I inserted a bit of code in the tree, that allows me to get the LED's to pulsate when the motors are NOT armed, and steady when it gets armed.  As you can also see, there are holes on the tips of each ARM, for more LED's, and I will soon have a surprise for those!  Videos are coming, so watch my blog! :-)

 

Now to the code:  VERY VERY STABLE with ACM 2.0.19! THANK YOU Jason and The Team!  You guys rock!

I had to lower the PID's considerably from the defaults (except for yaw), and my Yaw is ROCK steady, and so is the ship!  I used to get severe oscillations with the Pirate code on descent, and so far, with this one, I can drop it down from above like a brick, and it stays rock steady!!  PID's for Roll/Pitch: .2/.05/.1 and for yaw .8/.05/.1 (A bit higher than the defaults on Yaw).

I have not played much with Altitude hold or GPS navigation yet, but that is next.  The ship does have a sonar, so that should be fun.

 

One of the many cool things I like about the frame, is that all the cables and electronics can get easily placed "within" the frame...this makes for a very safe and very neat installation!  For example, the ESC's between the arms, and all the wiring with a power-ring I created, in the lower part.  I cut the power ring out of Copper clad G10 (double sided).

 

Well, shoot me questions if ya have them....

 

 

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Comments

  • What type/brand of epoxy are you using? Your joints look very clean/neat. A syringe type applicator seems like it would work very neatly.

  • beauttifull job, just sent you a private message....
  • @High Society: I run my VFD at 18K RPM.....using a .045 end mill.  It cut the G10 like butter :-)

    @ Bernard: Not sure of how precise I can get...but I would think I can easily land it at 2ft radius or so..it is quite stable in hover, with a bit of ground effect close to ground, but easily controllable.

  • How many RPMs did you run the mill at 20ipm for g10?
  • Very nice piece of art.

    Stability is the way to precision landing assistance development tools.

    How precise of a landing you think you can get. (Ex: Within a circle of how many inchs?)

     

     

  • Developer

    Paper motor mounts...

    I may end up using Scorpion motors, $240 vs $100 is worth the extra cost. Props, Motors ,ESC, and battery are all critical points of failure in flight system, I will get HK 40 Plush ESCs as they are working well for most.

    With break away technology to protect high quality motors and custom props, this Quad should last a long time.

  • Thanks Mark....

    Well, I actually beefed up some of the points on this frame...my previous frae had a couple of weak spots, that would basically cause some breaks in it.  it was not hard to repair, since G10 glues really well with Epoxy.  The frame comes apart easily.  For example: The arms, are held to the main plates with two screws.  if they break, I can take one out, and easily bolt one the new one. The "canopy" is also held by screws, and tabs.  Most of the screws are Nylon.  This includes all the screws holding the motors.  I have had in past many instances, where say I came in hard, and one of the props would hit the ground.  What winds up happening, is that if the hit is of a high force, the nylon screws holding the motors would break.  This allowed me to not have a broken prop, and in addition, to NOT have a bend shaft!  I can't believe how well this works!  So I would recommend this method to anyone building a frame....Nylon screws/bolts at proper locations are a life saver!

    Not sure if I will be cutting parts for people yet....just do not currently have the time.  if this changes, I will let everyone know...so far, it is only for "personal consumption" as they say...

    So far, Ihave been happy with the motors....only thing I have observed, is that they tend to get a little warm, which I think it is OK.  I used the HK 2217's in my previous quad, with similar weight, and those did not get warm, and I was running 12x3.8 props, vs the 11in I am running now.  The quality of these motors however, is a cut above.  On the HK motors, the prop mounts I think are made of paper, covered in metallic paint! LOL!

  • Developer

    Nice job, did you design in "break points" for easy repair when landing hard?

    I ordered a HK plywood frame lat week to play with, I will need some of your parts to beef it up... hope you can make sell them? Let us know how those motors work, I am still trying to decide which motors to use... 

    Thanks

  • I will upload videos from tne quad, and videos off the quad...no fpv videos yet..

    The quad weighs in at 1320 grams with NO batteries attached...
  • do you have a YouTube channel with videos?  I would like to see some FPV.
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