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3D Robotics
The Government Accounting Office has released a new report on the issue of introducing UAVs into the national airspace for routine operations. Nothing very new or illuminating, but I'm glad that they noted that the lack of a clear regulatory path is hindering commercial development. Words that do not appear anywhere in the report: "amateur", "non-commercial", "recreational" and "open source". Although the report makes many good points, it also gets a bit silly at times, such as noting that although airlines have locked security doors protecting the cockpit, there are no such standard security measure protecting the doors to the trailers of UAV ground station. Although that may be true, most of the big UAVs are operated from inside secure facilities, and the ones that aren't tend to be pretty small. Certainly nothing like a jet full of fuel. News coverage here.
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3D Robotics

HOW-TO: Make your own PCB

Confused by all this talk about Eagle PCB files, schematics, "fabs" and all that? Until about three months ago, so was I. But with a lot of late nights and hand-holding from Jordi, I finally figured it out and now find the fast-growing DIY hardware world mind-blowingly cool. Now you can zip up the learning curve a lot faster than I did by checking out this excellent new PCB fabbing tutorial by SparkFun.
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3D Robotics
From our friends at Pict'Earth, a neat hack to keep your directional antenna pointed the right way and monitor your wireless video while your plane is in the air. I was going to say it was "cool" but I realized that my wife would probably disagree (indeed, she'd have serious doubts about her life's choices if she ever caught me wearing it!) But it certainly does seem useful, especially for those secluded flying places away from the public eye ;-)
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3D Robotics

Dave from UNAV sent over the above GPS simulation results from a search and rescue pattern test for the upcoming Australian Outback Challenge contest. The course is 5x2 miles and Dave used the new PicoPilot groundstation software to plot the waypoints and monitor the simulation results.

It looks like there may be as many as 10 teams using PicoPilots in the Outback Challenge this year. Plus many using other commercial and DIY autopilots, no doubt. This year, the contest's second, promises to be far more competitive than last year. Anybody going who wants to file a report for DIYDrones?

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UAV #1

This was my first UAV.

It was the simplest, cheapest UAV possible: a magnet. It couldn't fly very high, it couldn't follow waypoints, it couldn't carry much of a payload, it was even more unstable than a helicopter, but it could fly as long as PG&E didn't have a rolling blackout.The guidance system was as simple as can be. Just pulse the throttle when too low or high. Scale the duty cycle based on the time between boundary conditions for lead compensation. A side magnet could move it sideways.Later on, discovered wings. Wings had huge advantages over a magnet.But, after the spare parts consumed $500 of rent doing nothing, decided there would be no other use for them & it was time to rebuild the magnet UAV. The hall effect sensor no longer works. It'll take some time to track one of those down.
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The Current Project

So my current project is to scratch build a small QuadCopter. The physical structure is allready built in a preliminary form, and it will do just fine for preliminary testing. Currently, its made of square wood dowel and Speed 400 size motors with an old NiMH pack. Its too heavy to hover with the battery, but I can still get it all working with low altitude testing. When I've got the software stable, then Ill invest in some proper hardware and do it right.The software is the real challenge. I'm going with the Propeller chip by Parallax for the core, so I should have more then enough power (the multi-core architecture will be great I think). I'm going to be muxing in software, so that will pretty much eat one of my 8 cores. Then I'm thinking of having two main components of the software architecture. 1 core will act as the master for the stabilization subcompoennt. 1 core will act as the master for the control subcomponent. Each of these will probably manage one or two others to provide enough horsepower to get their various tasks done. I dont know assembly, and while I intend to learn, I'm going to try to write this all in Spin. So as it goes now, here is the distribution of the propeller's 8 cores:1: Muxing1: Sensor Input and Scaling/Data Manipulation1: Stabalization1: Control________4 Total so farThe muxing core will simply manage what is providing output to the ESCs. I suppose it will just have a short loop which it will constantly be running. The sensor cog will constantly update the global variables with new values and do all the necessary math and scaling to get the correct values. I may leave a cog open so I can spawn it to run PID loops when necessary (just so I dont need to eat up one of them that is already in use). I think that I will have a cog devoted entirely to keeping the vehicle stable and hovering. Then, to move, I will just add an offset from the control cog to the target angle that the stabilization cog will be working toward. The control cog will do the actual navigation math.Ill update as it goes along,Borge
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3D Robotics

The decision to port the Basic Stamp autopilot to Arduino turned out to be an unexpected opportunity to make something really cool. I've taken Jordi's open source RC multiplexer/failsafe board, and mashed it up with an Arduino clone to create "ArduPilot", perhaps the cheapest autopilot in the world. ($110! That's one-third the price of Paparazzi)

Here's what it is:

A custom PCB with an embedded processor (ATMega168) combined with circuitry to switch between RC control and autopilot control (that's the multiplexer/failsafe, otherwise known as a "MUX"). This controls navigation (following GPS waypoints) and altitude by controlling the rudder and throttle. These components are all open source. This autopilot is fully programmable and can have any number of GPS waypoints (including altitude) and trigger camera or other sensors

As with the Basic Stamp autopilot, to make a fully autonomous aircraft you need to combine this navigation autopillot with a stabilization system, for which we turn to our old friend, the FMA Co-Pilot (off-the-shelf infrared sensors and control board to keep the plane flying level), which controls the ailerons and elevator.

By using Jordi's MUX, which allows us to switch from autopilot to manual RC control in hardware, we gain several advantages over the Basic Stamp:

1) Because the switching isn't handled by the processors, we don’t need to drive servos in real time, which means we don't need stand-alone servo driver chips (thus a simpler board)

2) We also don't need “mirroring” subroutines to pass through servo commands in RC mode (simpler code)

3) Don’t need power regulator, since we’re using regulated output from the RC receiver (simpler board)

4) The built-in MUX failsafe is cheaper and simpler than using a stand-alone one.

I've taken a quick pass at the schematic and PCB (Eagle 5.0 format) for ArduPilot, although this will evolve as we go through the hardware testing cycle: Schematic, PCB board. You can buy the board here. Arduino code coming soon in alpha now.

All together, this can be the basis of a sub-$500 UAV:

Autopilot:

--ArduPilot PCB: $10

--Boarduino kit + FTDI cable: $35 (subtract $17.50 if you already have a FTDI cable)

--PicoSwitch: $20 (we'll probably build this in the board in the next rev)[UPDATE: Jordi's now incorporated that into the board above. It's a TinyAVR chip ("IC3", $2.75) and its associated programming interface jumpers ("ISP")]

--EM-406 GPS module: $60

--Multiplexer chip : $1

--8 Samtec TSW-108-25-G-T-RA right angle servo connectors (available as a free sample): $0

(That's a $110 autopilot, thanks to the open source hardware. By comparison, the Basic Stamp version of this, with processor, development board and failsafe board, would run you $300, and it's not as powerful)

Stabilization:

--FMA Co-Pilot: $70

Plane and RC equipment:

--Hobbico SuperStar (includes motor, battery and ESC): $109

--6-Channel radio system (with proportional control for channel 6, to calibrate FMA system): $109

--Three servos: $45

TOTAL: $440
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3D Robotics

For very small UAVs, especially those used indoors, an interesting way to navigate is using a technique called "optical flow". Basically, it's the way flies see: they detect motion rather than resolve images. As you move, the objects closest to you appear to move the fastest, which for a camera chip means pixels shifting position faster.

The video above is from a Swiss team that have used optical flow to steer indoor blimps and microlight aircraft (video here). They've got pretty fancy equipment and lots of money--but is there a way to do the same on the cheap? Yes. It turns out that the sensor on an optical mouse (you probably have a few laying around) can do the job. Here are instructions on how to take the chip from an old mouse and connect it to a Basic Stamp (an Arduino would work even better) and create a low-budget optical flow sensor. Taking the dx, dy information from that and using it to drive the airplane's servos or actuators to move in the opposite direction from the highest optical flow should be a pretty easy matter. The only tricky thing is integrating the mouse chip and processor into a package no larger and heavier than the RC receiver that this optical autopilot replaces. The schematic on the mouse chip to Basic Stamp circuit is below:

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Developer

Open Source MUX Antifail System by me

Has been pass a long time since my last post, and well, I have been very busy. Anyway I have a good gift for all the community and I hope you will enjoy it, is my final version of my MUX antifail system. Chris Anderson already talk about this, you can see it here.This device let you switch between automode or manual mode just using 1 channel of your remote control. My Antifail system is a little bit complex, the idea was to make it very flexible and you can adapt it to any homemade solution.. For example you can choose between a pull down or pull up resistor, and if you make contact with any servo activated device in the correct pins will let you switch between modes or if you system only have a TTL pin to send the signal you can use it with no problems… in other cases if you have weird pico-switch that is just a transistor that makes ground, anyway, you can use it, (maybe I confuse everybody now), this is just an introduction, but I will explain it in detail after.And off course if open source and almost free, (just 7 dlls for board), a commercial one will cost you about $50 dlls.Let me explain about the labels of the PCB:SA1,2,3,4= Servos Port A (Input): Input of servos in port A.SB1,2,3,4= Servos Port B (Input): Input of servos in port B.S1,2,3,4= Servos Outputs.PWR_SEL= Power Select Jumper: Let you choose from where you want to obtain the power to move the output servos, if you place the jumper in the pins 1 and 2 you will take the power from the receiver connected to input port A, and if you put the jumper in pins 2 and 3 you will obtain the power from the receiver connected to input Port B.IC_PWR= IC power select: This jumper let you choose from where you want to take the power to supply the multiplexor chip, if you place the jumper in pins 1 and 2 (SRV), you will obtain the power from the receiver selected in PWR_SEL, but in case that the receiver exceeds 5.5 volts, you will need to place the jumper in the pins 2 and 3 (VIN), and connect a 5 volts battery in the VIN jumper.VIN= Voltage In: Here is where you suppose to connect the 5 volts battery. Careful with the polarity =).RES_SEL= Resistance Selector : Here you can choose between a pulldown or pullup resistor, if you choose pulldown resistor, the autopilot will be disable by the default, until you send a 5 Volts signal. If you select the pullup resistor, the autopilot will be activated by default, until you ground it.PICO= PICO Switch, is where you suppose to connect a switch activated by a servo signal (connected to channel 5 of your remote control). The pin 1 is ground, the pin 2 is the mode selector (manual mode or auto mode) and the pin 3 is 5Volts. If you selected the pulldown resistor mode you will need to make contact between the pin 2 and 3 to activate or deactivate the autopilot,. In case that you selected the pullup resistor mode, you will need to ground the pin2 to activated or deactivate the autopilot, you can use any ground you want, but I already put you a ground pin, and is the pin1 =).In case that you have system that will send a TTL signal, like a microcontroller or something, you should connect the output pin of your MCU and connect it to the “PICO pin 2” (the middle one), and connect the ground of the MCU to the MUX Ground, in this case the ground pin (PICO pin 1).Just to rectify if the pin 2 of the PICO jumper is set to LOW or ground, the input port A will be redirected to the output port (you can connect here your receiver or you autopilot). If the pin is set to HIGH or 5 volts, the input ports B will be redirected to the output ports, instead the input port A. This will let you switch between to controllers (autopilot and the remote control receiver).LED1= Tells you when autopilot is activated or vise versa..LED2= Tells you when the system is powered..

Well I hope is enough… If I made a grammatical mistake (like always) just tell me, hehe.To order a PCB from PCBbatch.com click here.

About the Pico Switch, you can buy it from here:http://www.dimensionengineering.com/PicoSwitch.htmOr you can make you own, the switch is from radioshack:
Use it by your own risk!!, if you plane crash i don't know anything, i don't even exist for you, but if you plane is a successful, all the credit is mine off course =P
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3D Robotics

This isn't exactly a UAV product, but Jay Graves, who runs Hobby Lobby, emailed to say that they've just released a First Person View (FPV) kit, which looks very nice. FPV is a combo of a videocamera in the plane, an onboard wireless video transmitter, a ground receiver and video goggles. The point: you put on the goggles and you can see the perspective from the plane itself, which is the closest thing most of us will get to actually flying a real plane.

Along with sharing some imaging technology with our UAVs, FPVs often use autopilots because they can fly further away than you can see from the ground. When pilots get lost or lose the wireless connection (and thus their view), the autopilots can bring the planes back into range.

The initial kit, which costs $549, has the basics and looks like quite a good deal (Hobby Lobby has a great reputation, and the company that makes the equipment, Intelligent Flight, is one of the best in the business). But if you happen to be independently wealthy, you might want to wait for some forthcoming accessories that will complete the full FPV experience: a pan-tilt camera mount, which can be connected to a gyro in your video goggles so the camera will turn where you're looking; an On Screen Display that integrates telemetry data into the video stream (and has a basic "return home" GPS-only autopilot for very stable aircraft), and a directional antenna that can greatly increase the range.

I wouldn't be surprised if all that together runs over $1,000, so it's a bit out of our range. But if you can afford it, this is the ultimate RC experience.

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3D Robotics

New PicoPilot groundstation software

UNAV's Dave Perry emailed me with the news that they've just released a new groundstation program for their low-cost PicoPilot line of autopilots.

From the description: "The PICO-GS program performs four basic functions: 1. Provides a graphical view of your waypoints on the map image. 2. Permits "point-n'click" waypoint programming on the map image. 3. Provides realtime GPS tracking and flight data on the map image ( requires a radio modem ) 4. Includes the standard PICOPILOT line item editor." It costs $100 for a CD and a license key for a single installation. They're sending me a review copy, so I'll give you a hands-on report as soon as I get it.

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3D Robotics

Bay Area UAV Fly-In: POSTPONED

I thought I'd checked everything for our proposed fly-in this coming weekend: airfield availability, weather, technology ready to fly. But I missed the most obvious conflict: it's MOTHER'S DAY! Given that I've been traveling for past week and we have five little kids, you can imagine that it would earn me no points at home to leave my wife with the children again while I go flying with the boys. So I'm afraid I'm going to have to postpone this. I know that some of you are going to be coming up for the Where 2.0 conference (which I'll be speaking at), so if you've still got you heart set on flying I can probably recommend some places to do it. But I won't be able to join you. Huge apologies for being an idiot and catching it so late. We'll reschedule for June or July. Best, Chris
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Learning to develop an DIY autopilot

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=707"/>

I have ordered my first development kit. This will be a "baby steps" project. I am in the process of learning how to program PIC. Not sure yet what program language is going to be the best. I would like to get as much advice as I can use. Chris Anderson warned me that this development platform is not for beginners, so I will be gaining the necessary experience in order to hopefully build an reliable stable autopilot.Those of you that have been down this road are probably amused at all the mistakes you already spot and foresee in my approach, but at this point ignorance is quite bliss,,,and who knows how much fun I will have pulling the last few strands of hair from it's precarious perch in the quest for autonomous flight?
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100KM

BasicX auto pilot

This is a journal for a BasicX AP I've been working on for the last month:i received my BasicX processor the first week of April and spent the next week pounding out the code .i then spent the next week simulating and adding a few niceties like way point and setup files.the next two weeks was spent waiting for the gps module and other parts .spent the last week making a proto board and a few changes to the gps parser to work with the gpstoday 5-5-08 first test flight : things went very well and it performed better then expected (wee haa!!)ok a few features of my ap:no distance restrictionscan fly any ware in the worldunlimited WPseasy set up file ie trim,ectuses spherical geometry in the nav routine instead of flat plain approximation5-8-08test fly ; changed "P" to 0.5 with very nice results flight path much straighter between wps5-9-08hardware list1x ettrex 32 cannel 5hz gps modual1x BX-241x DE-SWADJ reg from dimension engineering1x 5v LDO reg3x 0.1 uf caps1x 100 uf cap2x 1k ohm resistors1x parallax servopal1x tact button (reset)staight pin connectors1x small perfboard1x fma FS-8 failsafe reciever and copilot (stabilization)5-16-08changed gps serial comm , pumped up to 5hz update looptest flight went good ,some oscillations in yaw5-17-08changed cg ,changed prop to 10x7 ,cg got rid of yaw problem , flew in 15-20 mph winds , worked better then expected , noticed 35 deg + dog tracking on cross wind leg, no missed wp no "turn arounds"will turn up P slightly untill it oscillats and will try Ziegler-nichols method on PID loop5-18-08 flew for 15min "no hands" burned 750 ma noticed some trubble turning left against wind5-19-08 changed to figure 8 pattern, changed gain to 0.75, little left trim in auto mode, flew for 10min before rain5-21-08 demo flight for snohomish co. search and rescue. went well
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Finally started work on my UAV

I've had it in my mind for some time now to build a UAV. I liked Chris' builds with the Predator airframes and noted his concerns about the larger of the two Predators not having enough power or control authority. Now that I've managed to get my hands on a Predator, you guys get to suffer through my build log.I stripped the airframe down by removing the stock 380 brushed motor, ESC and associated wiring and weighed the airframe...14.5 oz for the 75in wingspan version. I decided to power it with an E-flite 1020kV Park 480 outrunner. I figure if it has the power to 3D a 30oz plane it'll be plenty to push the Predator from waypoint to waypoint. I've used this motor in a few 3D parkflyers and, thanks to my fondness of 3D flight in general, I like to have power "on tap". :-) Initial thrust testing with the 9x6 Master Airscrew prop is enough to send the Predator into a vertical climb...more appropriately, deliver groceries to the moon. :-)To mount the 480 I cut 1.5 in off the fuse, sanded the fuse nice and square, then epoxied triangle stock to the inside of the fuse (where the stock 380 once resided) to give more surface area on which to install the new firewall. I made the firewall from some ply, marked the mounting hole locations, drilled for blind nuts, cut the shank of the blind nuts down to the right height for the thickness of the ply, then cut recesses in the fuse material and triangle stock to allow the firewall to sit flush against the fuse. A little more epoxy and the firewall was attached to the fuse.After the epoxy cured I sanded the firewall to follow the contour of the fuse (was initially squared off from the scroll saw) bolted the 480 in place, and threw a 9x6 prop on to help determine which landing gear would be best suited for the plane. Great Planes .60 size gear seems to have a nice track width and should be tall enough to clear a 9 to 10 inch prop.The next thing to figure out is the nose gear. Ideally I'd like to have steerable nose gear but with that comes added weight and a loss of interior fuse space.The V-tail will likely get rebuilt so that the control surfaces consume a larger portion of the wing chord. I can see why Chris said the tail surfaces needed to be improved, they seem suited to a racer more than a slow, lumbering aircraft like a Predator. I don't intend to build new tail sections just yet, I want to see how she flies as I have her configured for now.If all goes as planned I should be able to conduct the initial airframe flight tests this coming weekend. Installing electronics in this airframe is a breeze...except for fishing the motor wires through the fuse. For initial airframe testing I'll be using my DX7 or DX6i. I have a JR 8103 that I plan to use when I make the switch to autonomous mode, along with an E-flite ESC and a Thunder Power 3-cell Li-Po.
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The Horror of Blimps

At the Maker Faire, the story on the intertubes about the HORROR of blimps came up. For those of you who haven't read it, head over here.I decided to make a DIY blimp today. My 1 year old son's recent love of balloons is a pretty good excuse.
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3D Robotics

Here's our latest, greatest BlimpDuino (Arduino-clone autonomous blimp controller) board: double-sided, silkscreened neatly laid out and otherwise in much better shape. Shown above is the top side (inside the gondola) of the new board (right) compared to the old one (left).

I'll be showing this at Maker Faire tomorrow and Sunday. Below is the bottom side of the old (left) and new (right) boards. Differences include putting all the chips inside the gondola ("top") and just the IR sensors, the on/off and reset switches and the FTDI programming port on the outside ("bottom")

You can buy these boards for $12.50 each here. You'll also need to buy a Boarduino kit ($17.50) for the Ardunino components. Other parts required: --On/off switch --One of these capacitors --And one of these capacitors --4 IR receivers --2 motor driver chips If you want to fab the PCB boards yourself, here are the Eagle files: Schematic and PCB layout. These are probably the last through-hole board design we'll make, since we've pretty much got this board where we want it. After this, we'll be moving to a much smaller surface-mount design using a whole new design with more sensors, LEDs for directional feedback and a more powerful processor. But that will take a while and in the meantime, the current BlimpDuino board is a great starter platform for blimp robotics. The Arduino code to run it is here.
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3D Robotics

After my impetuous outburst about the limitations of the Parallax Basic Stamp platform, Parallax co-founder Ken Gracey was kind enough to respond directly in the comments. Excerpt:

The BASIC Stamp product line will continue to be developed by Parallax. But most of the improvements we make to the product line pertain to documentation, operating speed and memory, and the addition of commands. You won't be seeing a floating point library built into the BASIC Stamp.

If you want to have true simultaneous processing with another high-level language, my suggestion is to use the Propeller. You seem to already know that processor so I'll skip listing the specifications. We aim to make the Prop very easy to use by publishing our educational tutorials (see Propeller Education on this page). The forums supporting the Propeller are very active. Supporting the growth of the Propeller is a big priority for Parallax and we back our position by responding to customer requests. In this case, you've got a complete floating point library to use. There's also a BS2 library for the Propeller in case the user wants to continue using something they've already learned.

He and I also had a good phone chat where we talked more about the options. Here's my bullet-point report from that, and summarizing the comments above:

  • The Basic Stamp platform continues to be staple of electronic education in schools and will be for years to come. It's still growing in terms of its usage base.
  • That said, the technology is not going to evolve much more. The things we want, such as floating point, C-like variable handling and significant increases in memory, are not planned for the Basic Stamp architecture.
  • Instead, Parallax recommends that we shift to the Propeller chip, which has both everything we need and reflects the direction that Parallax as a company is going.
  • Although Propeller is not currently as easy to learn as the Basic Stamp, Parallax is working hard to improve that. One thing in particular that will help a lot is a forthcoming serial debug window facility like that of the Basic Stamp. This will let you use the PC as a display screen for the chip's output and otherwise get real-time data on variables and program operation. Finally, it will be possible to write a simple "hello world" program for the Propeller and see "hello world" on your screen, rather than just a blinking LED.

As a result, this is what I propose for DIYDrones:

  1. We complete the Basic Stamp autopilot so that it works perfectly as it is, both as a teaching tool and for those who currently have the Basic Stamp hardware and want to keep it.
  2. After that is done, however, we will not develop it further.
  3. We will instead port the Basic Stamp autopilot code to the open source Arduino platform. All future development of our "entry-level DIY autopilot" will be on that platform
  4. After that, we will port the code to the Propeller platform and then encourage better programmers than me to help collectively build an open source "pro-grade" autopilot project on it. This is a big job (just ask Dean Goedde, who used the Propeller for his awesome AttoPilot commerical autopilot), so I'm looking for volunteers to help take it on. Anybody out there want to try their hand at the future of embedded computing (8-core, 32-bit, object-oriented parallel processing)?
  5. To that end, Parallax has kindly offered to donate $500 worth of Propeller gear to DIYDrones. If you want it and can make a public commitment to starting and sharing an autopilot project here (and can demonstrate that you've got the coding experience to pull that off), I'll work with Parallax to give you the gear of your choice up to that dollar limit. Please respond in the comments.
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