Hi Forum,
Some pictures to start...
Thought some of you may be interested in this build as I intend to build an aircraft capable of 1 hour flights to map large areas in order to Create some Digital Elevation models for GIS mapping purposes. Initially i will be doing this for experimental purposes. I know there are a lot of rules and regulations in around commercial photography etc.
I will be focusing on the following
I know this is a highly specialized area, but i do have some of the above from asking various people on here (initially posted about this in my blog area, but that was wrong place, so posting here...)
Right where to start...
Airframe
I have selected the Ursus Airframe for this build as it seems to have a large wing and space for enough batteries to give slow, stable flight for up to an hour or more in some cases. It has been talked about on here before
Some Stats...
Wingspan: 2200mm
Material: EPP and wood
I'll try and post more pictures than words.. .as they are more interesting to look at...
Day 1
Airframe arrived, fuselage part assembled,
Day 2
Wooden spas glued into wings, Glass rods glued into tail booms
Day 3
Fuselage glued together, with, wooden wing joiners glued into place
Day 4
Wings joined, APM arrived, sticker stuck to horizontal stab.
Day 14
After a few weeks of tinkering, my APM2 has arrived, And with much help from Chris and Michael I have managed to get HIL mode running pretty well in Xplane 10. I have been familiarising myself with the MissionPlanner as much as possible. Learning how the PID settings work.
Servos implemented, Undercarriage on.
I have also been playing with the Canon CHDK (Canon Hack Development Kit) on an ixus 80 and Intervalometer. Which is how i will be taking the photos from the plane, I wanted to see how long it can take pics for before the battery dies, I took pictures every 120seconds, and it took 81. Review was selected though after each picture, And i will be taking pics quicker than that. I created a time lapse from the window. Not that interesting, but its all part of the learning curve.
Day 23
I have upgraded the nose wheel undercarriage to a more robust strut with steering as well. This should give plenty of ground clearance for the Camera Gimbal
Testing the placement of the electronics, need to decide where to put the APM2, R149DP Futaba RX and the Camera IMU. Plenty of room in here for 2 x 5000 3s lipos! AUW is currently 2.7kg!
Tags: APM2, Canon, FY21AP, GIS, Gimbal, Photogrammetry, Ursus, chdk
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 7, 2012 at 1:06pm Hi James, Cheers for the info, that is very helpful. I have been doing some playing around with the camera taking pics out the window, but its getting dark here, so its difficult to monitor results. I have just changed those three settings as you suggested. And when i look at the meta data of the photos, it says the ISO is on ISO200, and the shutter speed is 1/250, ISO is set to Auto in the normal camera settings, but I cant seem to find an option to set the ISO to auto in the CHDK menu.
That's plenty for me to go on, and hopefully the next set of photos will be a lot better!
Thanks for your help!
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 8, 2012 at 1:42pm More Blurry photos:-(.
I went out again this afternoon to take some pictures, it was quite light with blue sky between the clouds. I had some mixed results. I used the following settings on the Canon CHDK Ixus 80,
CHDK Alt Menu
Disable overrides - [Disable]
Include AutoISO & Bracketi [o] (solid circle)
Override Shutter Speed - [4]
Value Factor [1/1000]
Shutterspeed enum type [Factor]
ND filter state [On] I also tried in and out, with fairly similar results
Override Subj Dist [0]
Value Factor (mm) [off]
Override ISO Value [0]
Value Factor [Off]
Clear override values@start [o] - solid circle
Enable Fast Ev Switch [ ]
Step Size (1 EV)? [ 1/3 Ev ]
CHDK Custom Auto ISO Menu
Enable Custom Auto ISO [ ] - (No value or dot, so I guess i don't need to show those settings)
Normal Camera Settings
ISO - ISO Auto (I also Tried ISOHigh) - they are the only 2 options
AF Frame - AiAF
Digital Zoom - Off
AF-assist Beam - On
Review - Off
Review info - Off
IS Mode - Continous
Okay - here are the pictures with Picture attributes
First picture, a bit dark, I think I had the ND Filter state On for this one
Picture 2
A bit lighter, Think the ND Filter was on Out for this one
The Mount was the same as before, therefore I guess there must be a lot of vibration coming through to the camera. I will add some foam in between the camera and the plane to give a softer mount to hopefully get rid of the burriness.
I also had more power system issue, he motor is stuttering, and running very rough, which leads me to believe there could be a problem with the Motor or ESC. Either way, I am going to replace both with some higher quality units.
I am sure there a [plenty of nice 300w 1000kv motors that will turn a 10 x 7 nicely on 3s, as this does seem to have enough power. draw 25amps on WOT, but cruises on less.
I also bent the front nose wheel beyond repair due to a hard landing, the power stopped and the airspeed was a little low into wind, dropped like a stone! The rear aluminium struts also bent badly.
Back to the drawing board!! - thoughts?
Good morning Richard,
the factor 4 * 1/1000 gives you shutter speed 1/250 which is a bit low, but i didnt new your area solar radiation also i didnt gave attention to your camera model (80is), ND filter doesnt make any difference fo 80's.
So give it a try with factor 2 (speed 1/500) or 3 (speed 1/330).
the usage its better explained here: CHDK Shutter Speed Overrides Explained
The best way to check the camera-mount-vibration-motor combination, is to make a flight and record the highest quality video possible and then interpret the video to see what's the weakest link. ie check image quality when motor is on or off, when your are full throtle, when you glide-try to listen for air-dynamic noise etc
the CG camera is convenient but its very close to your motor.
check my first test with my 100is video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-jWwYr0Ugs
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 9, 2012 at 7:53am Hi James,
Thanks for being so helpful! I would be a bit lost without some of the valuable information you have shared above!
I will hopefully give it a try tonight with the above settings if the rain stops, I have also read the link above regarding the CHDK shutter-speeds, I am beginning to understand what a shutter speed and what an ISO is!
I will try a video first, and note whether the video is blurry when the motor is on. I have just fitted a new motor, the old motor was stuttering. and I think creating some torque roll and unwanted vibration. The new motor seems much smoother, I do need to repair the undercarriage as I had a bit of a hard landing yesterday, better than bent cracked foam though!
I have had a look at your first video with the 100is. It looks very sharp indeed. I have a 120 is coming. Maybe that will be better than the 80 and give a better ground resolution if i get the vibration issues sorted.
I have tried setting a 1/4000th shutter speed, but the camera seems to only take a maximum of 1/1500th.
RE: ISO, I have set the ISO to auto, but have just discovered that i can set the ISO manually, is it best ot manually set the ISO? I have also set the focus to infinity.
I have a good feeling about the next flight... fingers crossed!
Thanks again :-)
your welcome!!
I have tried setting a 1/4000th shutter speed, but the camera seems to only take a maximum of 1/1500th.
Men! thats near sun exposure!! I think the optimum for 80is is 1/400 and still will be darky.. so try 2 or 3 factor with 1/1000 (i think 3 its the closest to 1/400)
from the factory camera settings set iso to auto, canons have very fast and accurate iso selection.
And of course infinity zoom, (sorry i forgot that)
If you find out it works, then you can enable super-fine quality from ckhd menu.
i tested this settings without foam dampening, straight from my gimbal , in airspeeds speeds: 20kph up to 62kph @ 100m & 200m Alt. and i had 80% usable photos, when i closed the motor, photos was 100% crystal clear!
Plz, i have questions too, did you find any way to engage ckhd from bootable card? its a b...h unmounting and mounting the camera everytime
Good luck!!
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 13, 2012 at 10:22am Hi James, I have posted my latest results below.... they are much better :-).
Plz, i have questions too, did you find any way to engage ckhd from bootable card? its a b...h unmounting and mounting the camera everytime
I have not found a way to do this with the Ixus 80. however there is a way to do it with the newer cameras so it automatically loads CHDK on boot. I have an IXUS 120is in the post that i picked up cheap from ebay, I think that camera has the capability to boot CHDK every time. I will let yo uknow if i get it to work,
R
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 10, 2012 at 2:47pm @James, Cheers for the info, I have had a play around with those settings, and on 1/400 the camera still seems to blur, maybe im being a bit voilent with the camera whilst taking test shots. I had planned to go out tonight and give the plane a fly with the camera on those settings, but it was a tad windy (37mph!).... I flew the plane anyway, but didnt bother with the camera! The flight is quite interesting!
Fingers crossed for the weekend! I did however try some 1/1500 shots on 400ISO with fairly good results, i'll be taking a video with the camera to eliminate the motion blur/vibration issues next.. :-)
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 13, 2012 at 10:15am Better Aerial Photo results & Photosynth
Update - Tried the recommended settings on the is80 camera.
It was a fairly sunny afternoon so i think that helped... the low altitude photos came out fairly blurred, but as the altitude increased, and turned off the motor, the photos came out quite clear, I still need to sort out the mount, as there is definitely too much vibration causing blurry photos, regardless of altitude.
I uploaded the non-blurry pictures to microsoft photosynth, it did a fairly good job (91% synthy!) of stitching them together.. Its quite interesting, and can be found here
The better pictures... the camera selected ISO-80 for this one
Next Steps:-
Thanks to everyone who has helped me get this far!
Wow!!you are Very very good pilot!! Airfframe also conpenshated the wind, while kept nice penatration-beside the huge dihedral.
Iam glad you finally set up your cam, very good photos& synth. Everything now points motor vibes..
Iwould suggest. Make a hole for the lense & a good dampened case for the cam inside. Until the camera code release, you will have less drag, weight, vibe and setup issues. Yesterday i removed my inside gimbal because it costed me 110gr and mounting delay for no reason
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 14, 2012 at 2:16pm Cheers James, I think I need a more powerful motor (maybe ~600W!) if I am going to fly the plane in more than 40mph wind, as it was flying backwards!
As i didn't have much time tonight, and the conditions look favorable for tomorrow, I have quickly removed the camera plywood enclosure from its previous location, and added two 4mm strips of foam tape, and velcro to the mount, which should hopefully dampen the motor vibration,
I will be trying again tomorrow evening, if this works, I will then do what you suggested, and move the camera inside the airframe, I would like to build a lightweight easily accessible internal gimbal.
I may get a CAD program and design the pitch/roll internal gimbal. Normally i get straight in and just start cutting wood, but for something fairly technical like this, i would like to draw it out first.
I'll post tomorrow results if they are any good!
I am going to try to record the altitude and flight tomorrow, so i can see what height I am taking the photos at, do you know if I can simply power up the APM2 (not connected ot any surfaces yet) and will it record the flight onto the card for me to view later on Google earth?
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 15, 2012 at 2:32pm Hi Forum -
I am a step further tonight - I have stitched together 180 aerial photos with microsoft ICE - to create this Aerial map .. the original image is extremely high resolution. I have considerably downsized it in order to upload it to the internet...
The foam tape on the mount worked okay, but still blurred 20% of the images.
Also, for some reason, some of the images have been stitched a bit strange, eg. the road at the top of the picture, i guess i need to orthrecitfy, or at least shoot straight down to ensure this doesnt happen......thoughts?
Permalink Reply by Richard on May 16, 2012 at 3:33pm The weather has been so nice, I havent had time to make any improvements to the camera mount, or fix the undercarriage, which is totally bent after a few helicopter landings on the cliff tops, I stand by my theory though, the undercarriage breaks, stopping the plane from breaking!
I have ordered a nice rear undercarriage set made of Carbon fiber, and the nose wheel should be easily fixable...
So instead I went to my local cliff tops and took around 500 aerial photos - of which circa 250 were usable, I let ICE do the stitching, the ortho errors are still there, as is the blurriness in some pictures. Will be working on the Roll pitch gimbal as soon as we get some bad weather and its not flyable!
I am quite happy with the results, a bit more interesting than green fields!
Season Two of the Trust Time Trial (T3) Contest has now begun. The fourth round is an accuracy round for multicopters, which requires contestants to fly a cube. The deadline is April 14th.1355 members
206 members
52 members
719 members
203 members
© 2013 Created by Chris Anderson.
Powered by
