Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Ritchie on March 23, 2011 at 6:49am

Wait for the Turnigy 9X to come back in stock. Its certainly not the best but at $50 its just an epic buy.

I'd go with 3S (11.1v) as chargers are cheaper but if you intend on long flights it might be better to 'bite the bullet' and get the 4S stuff from the start.

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Permalink Reply by ARHEXA on March 23, 2011 at 7:12am

it's that one right ? i've read somewhere that it is marketed under a lot of brand names

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-4G-9CH-Radio-Model-RC-Transmitter-Receiver-Pl...

 

what do i need mode1 or mode2 ?

i'm new to RC and im not used to one of them...

 

also, i've read that the APM board uses one channel for flight mode selection.

does this TX have the right switch for fligh mode selection ??

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Permalink Reply by ARHEXA on March 23, 2011 at 7:22am

oh it's even cheaper here including shipping

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=...

 

but what mode is best for arducopter ? 1 or 2 ?

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Permalink Reply by ip9 on March 23, 2011 at 7:31am

Hi,

 

Mode1/Mode2 is your preference - its just the configuration of the sticks on the TX, Mode 2 (Throttle/Yaw left) seems most common from my experience and this is the assumption made in the standard docs etc (see threads on "can't arm motors etc" on here. By nature of it being more popular mode2 (Turnigy/FlySky etc) 9x TXs seem to be harder to find - i.e. hobbyking usually sell out in hours when they do hit +ve stock after meeting backorders.

 

You can buy mode 1 and convert it to mode 2 with a bit of fiddling apparently  - see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FghCXlEYYac

 

If using ardupirates code the acro/stable selection is made with DIP switch and then 2 channels are used for alt & position hold. With that TX you'll have plenty of switches.

 

You may like to consider a custom firmware for the TX, makes programming a lot easier and gives some great features - i used this as a fuss free way of adding the programmer and a backlight and then used the er9x firmware.

 

http://www.smartieparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&a...

 

I think the "stock" electronics can run on 3 or 4S but i believe most people are using 3S with between 2200 and 2650 mah 20-30C packs.

 

 

oh, you may also want to add the magnetometer from the start as well. You should be able to get everything (bar the battery and TX) from both DiyDrones and jDrones to save you paying two lots of shipping. Order some spares, especially props as they can be hard to find locally.

If you are ordering from HK i'd also suggest adding in one of their cheap lipo monitors.

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DeveloperPermalink Reply by Max Levine on March 23, 2011 at 7:41am

2.4G FlySky will work fine for AC, mode 2 is most used here.here is how to change it on Fly Sky tx mode-1 and 2 quick-tutorial.

You should get Transmitter Pack lipo for your radio.

Here is all the RC setup info http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/wiki/Quad_Radio

There will be a new code "ACM" soon (ArduCopterMega), so more info will on wiki soon.

 

There no need for 4S lipo for quad frame, i use this 3s 5000mah, you can get over 20 min air time.

 

you'll need magneto and Sonar (one of those)

 

here is a list http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/wiki/ArduCopter_Electronics

good luck :)

 

 

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Permalink Reply by ARHEXA on March 23, 2011 at 8:26am

Thanks.

I will have a 1-1.5 kg payload (DSLR camera and additional RF equipment)

so i chose the bigger (28cm) arms, along with the stronger 880KV motors with the 12" props.

it isn't about the flight time, but about the lifting power with a heavy payload.

did you hear of Arducopters lifting 2kg payload successfully with 3S lipo ?

 

I let go on the magnetometer - but maybe i'm wrong ?

actually, what is the difference between using one and not using ?

it is responsible for keeping the yaw axis fixed when in position hold ? or at anytime ?

what couldn't i do (what do i miss) when not using one ?

 

the sonar is a cool toy, but i won't be needing it for my project...

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Permalink Reply by ip9 on March 23, 2011 at 8:37am

Thats a lot of weight, i think you may need to start thinking a lot bigger..

I don't think a quad would be a good idea as even if it was possible to life the weight you have zero redundancy, so a single ESC or motor failure will be very bad news for your DSLR. You should probably be looking at hexa or octo configurations to manage the weight and give some protection against failiure (although would still be a challenge to land in a controlled fashion if something failed, but better than just falling out of the sky sideways).

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Permalink Reply by ARHEXA on March 23, 2011 at 8:42am

brr... you made my vision black...

 

and does using 4S lipo instead of 3S increase the chances of ESC/motor failure ?

that makes sense, but isn't that better to have 4S with medium throttle than 3S at 100% throttle ?

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DeveloperPermalink Reply by Max Levine on March 23, 2011 at 8:45am

ok i see,

To fly DSLR camera you should wait for Hexa frame. 

ArduCopterMega will support Hexa frame.

And I guess you can get hexa setup from jDrones.

running your motors at 100% will be bad, no meter on what lipo, you'll get 5 min in air max :(

You need magneto for FBW / GPS position hold, and it better to have one :)

 

Sonar is a good safety, for not smashing your DSLR on the ground :) 

 

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Permalink Reply by ARHEXA on March 23, 2011 at 9:00am

no HEXA frames from jDrones... unfortunately.. (have you seen one ??

 

will the sonar prevent landing (or 'crashing your DSLR') even without the position hold ?

i'm gonna use position hold only in the sky, when taking shots. i dont see a reason for holding low altitude...

 

how about adding a big ducted fan for example in the middle to add 'boost' lifting power ?

i dont mind it yaw a bit while ascending...

and hey - that could serve as an SOS safe landing... well at least slowing down the crash.. :P

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JDronesPermalink Reply by Jani Hirvinen on March 23, 2011 at 9:53am

hexa's will be available soon. two different beta frames are already made.

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Permalink Reply by ARHEXA on March 23, 2011 at 9:57am

Thanks for the info Jani.

I'm just about to order the v1.0 frame kit

http://store.jdrones.com/product_p/ackit2.htm

 

i'm afraid of the Hexa version because:

• it will be more expensive frame
• i will have to add the cost of 2 extra motors, ESC, props
• it is less common therefore i could get less help or support

i think i'll stick to the quad, maybe use a lighter DSLR with 4S lipo if it won't be OK with the load at 3S....

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