APM2.5 5V/Vcc Schematic

Frequently asked questions are about powering an APM2.5 or why the same does not work or why it has failed.

Here is a simplified schematic showing the major components of the 5V/Vcc circuit on the APM2.5

Target Audience: Readers who do not have Eagle or are confused about using it.

You Need: Basic electronic schematic reading ability

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Note that I have separated the PWM Output section into the upper left corner with a heavy purple line that is bridged by the jumper JP1 on the APM2.5. This is to emphasize that diode D1 passes current through JP1 (and drops voltage). The remaining energy is then called 'Vcc'.  Everything outside the purple corner is Vcc.

This is why the USB will power the APM2.5 when connected to a computer/USB hub. Note the fuse on the APM2.5 side of the USB connector AND another fuse on the output of D1. Another change from APM2.0 is the D4 6.0V Zener diode. If an over voltage is applied to the board, D4 will crowbar what it can to protect devices.

As with APM2.0, any 5V source connected to any of the indicated Vcc/5V points outside the purple corner (with GND of course) will power the APM2.5.

Also of note is the 'Mystery Port'. This port takes 5VDC before D1 and the fuse and is called 'JP_VCC'. Other clues to the mystery are the lines to 'ADC 12' and 'ADC 13'. A mystery indeed!

Any errors in this drawing from editing are mine.

I hope this can be used as reference for solving problems.

-=Doug

 

27-FEB-2014 Eagle files are now located HERE

 

APM2_5 Simplified Power.PNG

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  • Developer

    @R. D. Starwalt 

    can you add a link to Altium Schematics and PCB Files above, as it may help some members

    Thanks

    Philip

  • Guys, about protection of the APM. This is what happened to me today:

    Hi (again),

     

    I’m not having much luck.

    Today I experienced a serious problem which destroyed a just purchased APM 2.5, the received MinimOSD as well as the uBlox GPS.

     

    The situation was as follows: I had the APM 2.5 plugged in to my laptop via USB. All was working well.

    I’m using 4s batteries and as soon as I plugged it in to the APM’s 3dr power supply, disaster happened: it fried (I could smell it) the APM. Upon trying a different power supply, second APM 2.5, I discovered that the uBlox was destroyed (I tried an older Mediatek, which worked fine) and that the connected MinimOsd was destroyed. I suspect a power spike by the power supply.

     

    The MinimOSD is ONLY powered by the 5V coming from the telem port, which I believe comes from the APM's power supply and not from the ESC's?

  • Is this the GPS connector housing? If it is then they have the 1x4 and 1x5 also for telemetry and power module.

    http://hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/150mm/150mm_1x6/

    Hansen Hobbies - 1.50mm Connector Housing and Headers (1x6)
    Hansen Hobbies - Electronics for Radio Controlled Aircarft
  • I received it in December. It was when they dropped the price. It has the two gps connectors even though the ublox they sent with cable that goes on older port so Im not using the new gps port. I just need to make new gps and telemetry cables. Preferably the new gps connector but either will do. I think I found what I need at Hansen hobbies but wanted to confirm the type of connector.
  • I need to make some cables for the new GPS port and telemetry port. Does anyone know if this is the type of connectors it uses?

    http://hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/150mm/

    1.50mm Housings and Headers
    Hansen Hobbies - Electronics for Radio Controlled Aircarft
  • Simple question, but I cannot find answer here.

    I want to use the AttoPilot 90A/50V Voltage/Current Sensor for the APM 2.5 and power it the same way I do the APM 2.0.

    Do I use the same connections as I do for the APM 2.0?  that is A1 and A2 for the voltage and Current leads?

    thanks for pointing me to the answer..

    Mack

  • Note: The 'Mystery Port' was revealed to be the connection for the new 3DR APM Power Module.

    This schematic also works with APM 2.5.2.

    -=Doug

  • What is the purpose of the D1 diode? I had my power coming in from the outout rail with JP1 connected and was getting brownouts causing 1 or 2 esc to loose its signal and start to beep. I seem to have fixed the proplem by feeding the board its power from the input rail which bypasses the D1 diode.

  • Peter has it dead on.
    D4 is a 'last resort' protection of the APM Output lines in the event the BEC/Battery exceeds 6 VDC.

    Vitaly, because it seems your D4 is damaged, even though a static Ohm test seems OK, your device may be doing the job at the wrong voltage. D4 is connected to the 'Vcc' line. 'Vcc' also supplies the 3.3V regulator for the logic families that use that power.

    Things to do:
    1) Remove the BEC/ESC input and check the power output that was connected to the APM. 5.1 VDC best!
    http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/wiki/APM25board_Overview#Altern...

    2) With BEC disconnected, connect USB and measure the Vcc value. It may be 4.75 to 5.1 VDC; depends on the PC and connection/wire resistance.

    3) If Vcc is OK, APM should respond OK. If Vcc is very low.. less than 4.1 VDC, D4 should be *removed*. If Vcc OK (4.75 to 5.1 VDC), D4 was problem. If Vcc not OK, something else is bad.

    -=Doug
  • Don't know what you mean by IC2 socket! Anyway if there is a pinhole in a diode then you can be pretty sure it's not functioning right!

    If the diode in question is the supply one next to the 2 pin jumper then it's not a vital component, just pull the jumper and supply the board from the input side 5v0 -+0v5 (where are you intending to supply 3v3 to?)

    Much safer (and easier) to calibrate the escs when they are disconnected from the APM altogether...
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