I'm having trouble programming the 20a yellow ESC from DIY drones with the transmitter. It won't enter programming mode.Motor is attached, esc is plugged into throttle channel, throttle full up, turn on Tx, connect battery and get a 123 tone. I do not get any tones for the number of cells like the manual says I will. If I drop the stick to 0 and throttle back up the motor will spin.Have not been able to get into programming mode. Any ideas?Will the turnigy programming card work on these ESC's? Anywhere I can get the card here in orange county, ca? Rather not have to wait for one to ship online.one last note, all 4 ESC's are soldered to a power distro board, but only the one I want to program is tied into throttle channel. So I hear all 4 "123" when power comes on. But only one is plugged into Rx at a time, of course.
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I'm glad this is a hobby. I've had my ArduPilot 1 and QuadCoter for over a year and been fussing with this very thing the whole time. Of the four none of them go into program mode like the instructions said.
I've seen lots of people almost get this working in days (My Geek show, and FliteTest Podcasts) so I just thought I was stupid. Then I started testing. Two of the four have way different set points different set point and two wouldn't spin. I can't get any of them reset. Two work but their set points are just way off. One beeps but will net spin. The other seems to be dead. It has receiver voltage but doesn't beep at all.
Ok, the problem is that it might take a second for the reciever to connect and you are missing the time window to enter programming mode. I found that using one of the servo testers is the easiest way to set these up reliably because it's instant on, and thus you can have it at the correct stick position.
That said, on my most recent hexa build, I did not program my escs at all, nor did I even bother to calibrate. That drone flies just fine on it's maiden voyage. I just flew it again today, and basically, all I did was wire it up, drop the stock firmware on it, level it, calibrate the radio, do the tilt test below and flew with stock PIDS and everything.
Rather than getting ll wrapped around the axle about programming, just try them initially props off testing and see if they work.
If you can pass this test and they all spin up at the same intial throttle setting, no programming is required. I'm not saying calibration is a bad thing, just if you pass this test with stock settings, there really isn't much need. Again, this test proves the machine is ready to fly and stabilization is working. It's so simple, I don't know why it's not in the instructions. I would only mess around if this test doesn't pass.
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I'm glad this is a hobby. I've had my ArduPilot 1 and QuadCoter for over a year and been fussing with this very thing the whole time. Of the four none of them go into program mode like the instructions said.
I've seen lots of people almost get this working in days (My Geek show, and FliteTest Podcasts) so I just thought I was stupid. Then I started testing. Two of the four have way different set points different set point and two wouldn't spin. I can't get any of them reset. Two work but their set points are just way off. One beeps but will net spin. The other seems to be dead. It has receiver voltage but doesn't beep at all.
This is almost not fun. Who did you talk with?
Ok, the problem is that it might take a second for the reciever to connect and you are missing the time window to enter programming mode. I found that using one of the servo testers is the easiest way to set these up reliably because it's instant on, and thus you can have it at the correct stick position.
That said, on my most recent hexa build, I did not program my escs at all, nor did I even bother to calibrate. That drone flies just fine on it's maiden voyage. I just flew it again today, and basically, all I did was wire it up, drop the stock firmware on it, level it, calibrate the radio, do the tilt test below and flew with stock PIDS and everything.
Rather than getting ll wrapped around the axle about programming, just try them initially props off testing and see if they work.
Get the the point where you can do this test:
http://youtu.be/YfjnIX78oSY
If you can pass this test and they all spin up at the same intial throttle setting, no programming is required. I'm not saying calibration is a bad thing, just if you pass this test with stock settings, there really isn't much need. Again, this test proves the machine is ready to fly and stabilization is working. It's so simple, I don't know why it's not in the instructions. I would only mess around if this test doesn't pass.
I'm having the same exact problem. Did you ever figure this out?