Turnigy HAL Quad Build

Chickendog2016 is offline Chickendog2016 Find More Posts by Chickendog2016Noob Build: Turnigy HAL Quad and KK2.1.5 HCFirst post here.After seeing a smaller drone built by an acquaintance, I decided I'd build my own. But I know nothing to very little about the various aspects of RC, electric motors, ESCs, flight controls, transmitters, soldering wires, or pretty much anything related to building a drone. Straight Noob.After some fairly decent online research to get myself up to speed, I decided on a frame and went from there. I went with the HAL because it seems customizable and I'm more interested in lazy flying and aerial photography. Also, maybe most importantly, it kinda looks like that walking eye robot from Johnny Quest.I've followed various online builds, particularly: Linden Robotics Quadcopter Build - Linden RoboeaglesI've received all my components from hobbyking.com over the past month or so, and been assembling them as they came in. For other noobs considering a quad, there's a full list of my major components below for anyone interested. I've also added some comments based on my build experience.I now have most everything assembling but I've hit a couple snags. At least one of which I'd consider self-inflicted. So I thought I'd post here and see if anyone has any suggestions. I have done a reasonable search on the forums for these answers tips, but didn't find anything.1. Issue with the Turnigy Programming Card. I can't seem to power on the card using the Turnigy Multistar 30 Amp Multi-rotor Brushless ESC 2-4S. I appears that the Turnigy Programming Card is only for plush ESCs? The discussion/reviews were mixed on that topic, and the build guide I used appeared to use the same ESCs and card. Is there another card that will definitely work with these ESCs? I think the primary concern would be the break and the battery types, which if needed I could do wtih the transmitter.2. The transmitter Yaw left/right on the left stick is inverted. And the back/forward on right stick are inverted. I'm guessing this can be switched by using the software available. However I don't have a programming cable at the moment. Is there another way to flip these controls? It didn't seem that I could flip it within the FC programming/settings.3. Third issue is self inflicted. I think I fried my kk2.1.5 HC board. When attempting to program my ESCs with the transmitter, I powered up, but had not checked all my connections. When the receiver wouldn't come on I saw that I had not fully plugged in the male-to-male wires from FC to receiver. I attempted push them in with the battery still plugged in, and there was a squawk from the FC and seconds later the distinct smell of burning plastic. And then the FC stopped responding. So, lesson learned: check all connections before powering up.Build Details:I have run all this through eCalc, and have pretty good time and temps.ESCs: Turnigy Multistar 30 Amp BLHeli Multi-rotor Brushless ESC 2-6S V2.0 - with connectors b/c I didn't want to have to learn/master soldering. Figures connectors would eliminated my lack of soldering skills from consideration when troubleshooting issues.Programming Card: TURNIGY BESC Programming Card (US Warehouse) This is card that won't work (at least for me) with the above referenced ESCs.Power Distributor: HXT 4mm to 4 X 3.5mm bullet Multistar ESC Power Breakout Cable - I didn't want to solder. Size was a good fit for HAL.Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx & Rx V2 (Mode 2) - Did come with its own receiver. Didn't come with a programming cable, but will attempt to track one down. 8 AA batteries is a lot of batteries, but can find mods out there. Also, the programming card appears to be on back order, for some time. Considering my issues which I'm guessing will require the cable, I may have gone a different direction on the transmitter if I had to do it all over again.ZIPPY Compact 4000mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse) Per eCalc without adding any A/V payload, this should give this build +16min of mixed flight time. Seemed reasonable.HobbyKing KK2.1HC Multi-Rotor Hard Case Flight Control Board With Remote Programmer (US Warehouse) Flashed this with KK2.1 V1.19S1 Pro by Steveis. The detachable programming screen worked well and updated with PI tuning settings found online. Had no problems other than the 2 transmitter controls being flipped but that may not be the FC. Case seems sturdy BUT, the holes didn't line up with the HAL frame and if they did line up, the raised bolts on the HAL would prevent you from attaching it directly to the frame with the provided screws. I used the nylon risers to make a platform for the FC, then used some heavy duty velcro to secure it to the platform. seemed to work well. Until I fried it.Motors: Turnigy D2830-11 1000kv Brushless Motor (US Warehouse) - per eCalc these worked with my setup. Fit without issue on the HAL motor mounts.Props: SF 10x4.5 and 9x4.7 - Got both sizes just to see if it made much of a difference. Research indicates that the large the prop, smooth the flight, but also that smaller props more quickly adjust to the FC. So for an extra 12 bucks, I gave myself 2 options. Got a cheap balancer and balanced them.Frame: Turnigy H.A.L. (Heavy Aerial Lift) Quadcopter Frame 585mm - I went with this b/c it had a cover to attempt to protect the electronics from crashes. Reviews indicated it was sturdy. It's customizable if you want to extend the arms. HK has options for replacement parts for most of the quad if something breaks, or you want to add a third tier. And again, it kinda looks like the walking eye robot from Johnny Quest. The instructions provided are mildly helpful at best. I got stuck on what screws went where several times. Looking at online build pics helped sort most of that out. I also think I got screw counts off. I think I needed a few more 6m and i got 3m in the pack. Or I'm not reading the instrux right, but either way I had enough to secure everything well. I will probably go back and blue loctite everything before I get the quad flying above 10 feel. For the most part, everything was properly aligned and the frame fit together nicely. The silver set screws provided required some serious muscle to insert through the center piece holes into the arms. You want to install the landing gear first, as access to the bolts. The battery frame is weirdly screwed together. I may just order the battery plate that is available. The landing gear is the weak link on this frame. the plastic connectors don't inspire much confidence and online postings back that up. There are replacement landing gear parts available, there are a number of mods online to shore up the gear, and there's a beefed up gear for the HAL hexa. I think if I can find it, I'll probably try to get the hexa landing gear.Research: I found most answers to my questions from googling or video searches on youtube. I found the comment sections on products to be a bit contradictory at times, and like most comment sections, the gripes seem to outweigh suggestions and info.Thanks in advance for any suggestions on the issues I've encountered, and please feel free to fire away with any questions you have. I'll try to get any answers back as soon as possible.

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  • Did you look at the RX controller? That is likely where you would reverse the inverted behaviors. Depending on which radio you're using it may be in multiple places.
  • I'm really just down to trying to resolve the inverted yaw (left stick left/right) and inverted elevator (right stick up/down).
  • The programming card was recommended in a number of online builds, so I just grabbed one. I do realize that some do not use one, and just rely on the stock settings. But for $5, I threw one in on one my orders. And I agree, I would not expect it to adress the inverted yaw issue. They are entirely separate.
    • To be honest for your first build just keep it simple. Dont program your esc's until you have tried them and are not happy.

      You wrote a lot in your first post. What are your actual problems?

  • I dont understand why you are using a "Programming Card". 90% of the time you dont need to program your esc's. The "Programming Card" will not help you with your inverted yaw problem.

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