I completed my y6 and am having trouble getting it in the air. All the escs are calibrated and the motors spin at the same time when armed. I have Mission Planner set the frame configuration to the newer y6b. The top motors spin CW with the 10 inch pusher props and the bottom motors with the 11 inch normal props spinning CCW. I'm using a new Spektrum Dx7S with the AR8000 receiver. When I try to take off the left arm lifts up first and makes it want to tip over. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!
Replies
I have question about the right stick (elevator) on my DX7. When I push the stick back towards me does the tail of the y6 suppose to go up or down?
Up, this causes the front of the copter to nose down and allow forward motion.
No that's the wrong way around, when you pull the stick backwards the tail will drop and multirotor will move backwards. The nose will rise.
I stand corrected. I didn't clearly read Joe's question. Normally one pushes the stick forward to go forward and pulling the stick back towards one's self to go in reverse. Either way when you push the stick forward or away from you the nose goes down/tail up and when you pull stick back, nose goes up/tail down. Appologize for my goof.
I agree with Gary, although I think the confusion is he used the word "push" (suggesting away) with "back towards me". Either way, this seems like some pretty fundamental stuff to be flying a $2000 rig. Might want to get some practice with a little cheap indoor quad first Joe.
When I flew mine for the first time I noticed this also but mine was the other direction. I also just went for it and once in the air it was fine. When I was putting mine together I noticed that after bolting one motor to a motor plate it did not turn as easy as before I bolted down. I looked for the problem and notice that the c-clip that retains the shaft was not snapped in all the way causing it to rub on the inside of the hole drilled into the center of the motor plate. Almost all my had to have the c-clip snapped in. After noting this I spun and felt all the motors with nothing bolted to them. Some felt more tight than others and did what I could to free them up. Then when putting it together I made sure they all felt the same even after bolting them down. These motors just aren't that precise I don't think. Sometimes its a assembly issue instead of the motor, esc, setup etc. If one motor or esc seems to getting hot make sure the motor turns as free as the others. I'm hoping that all the motors break in as I can tell some feel different than others. Still happy with my Y6. After some more learning I can always buy better motors.
I concur with john. After building my from scratch, I too had the uneasy feeling when it came to lifting off. The Y6B wanted to tip to the side, but I knew it wasn't from pinning the receiver to the Pixhawk incorrectly, it was that the Pixhawk needed to get airborne and teach itself how to stabilize. This isn't new as I've seen this with my older APM 2.5 too.
My recommendation is to remove all props and perform power/speed tests on motors to ensure they are spinning in the right direction. You can also give direction inputs and observe which motors are reacting to the pilots command on the radio. I did this to validate that all my RC channel pin connections were configured correctly.
True, it is always a good option to give it just enough power to become "lite" and then try to move the right stick around to see if you are going to get the expected response. If that all looks good then go for it :-).
Yep. It's a bit shaky when in ground effect. You learn over time to get it off the ground quick (once you have confirmed the sticks are doing the right thing).
-
1
-
2
of 2 Next