3D Robotics

ArduPilot (Legacy) main page

 

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[This original ArduPilot board, now called the "Legacy ArduPilot" is no longer produced or officially supported by the DIY Drones dev team, and this page is maintained just for historic reasons. However, there are still many users of it out there and it still works fine. The user group for Legacy ArduPilot users, for both thermopile and IMU use, is here.]

 

ArduPilot is a full-featured autopilot based on the Arduino open-source hardware platform. It uses infrared (thermopile) sensors or an IMU for stabilization and GPS for navigation. It is the autopilot used to win the 2009 Sparkfun Autonomous Vehicle Competition.

The hardware is available from Sparkfun for $24.95. An expansion board ("Shield") kits that includes an airspeed sensor, a 3.3v power regulator for 3.3v GPS modules and other sensors and cables and connectors for easy attachment of the XY and Z sensors, is available from our own store for $57.20.

 

User f

ArduPilot features include:

  • Can be used for an autonomous aircraft, car or boat.
  • Built-in hardware failsafe that uses a separate circuit (multiplexer chip and ATTiny processor) to transfer control from the RC system to the autopilot and back again. Includes ability to reboot the main processor in mid-flight.
  • Multiple 3D waypoints (limited only by memory)
  • Altitude controlled with the elevator and throttle
  • Comes with a 6-pin GPS connector for the 4Hz uBlox5 or 1hz EM406 GPS modules.
  • Has six spare analog inputs (with ADC on each) and six spare digital input/outputs to add additional sensors
  • Supports addition of wireless modules for real-time telemetry
  • Based on a 16MhZ Atmega328 processor. Total onboard processing power aprox 24 MIPS.
  • Very small: 30mm x 47mm
  • Can be powered by either the RC receiver or a separate battery
  • Four RC-in channels (plus the autopilot on/off channel) can be processed by the autopilot. Autopilot can also control four channels out.
  • LEDs for power, failsafe (on/off), status and GPS (satellite lock).


Resources:

ArduPilot requires the free Arduino IDE to edit and upload the code to the ArduPilot board.



The code is currently optimized for the Mutiplex EasyStar three-channel powered glider and FMA sensors, but can be modified for other aircraft and sensors. It uses the rudder/ailerons and elevator to maintain level flight and navigate to GPS waypoints. It supports a desktop setup utility and ground station software. It also includes a "fly-by-wire" mode that simply stabilizes RC flight. The main code is ArduPilot2.x.zip in the download section of our Google Code repository, where x is the latest version.

What you need to make a fully-functional autopilot:


Open source extras:

  • If you want to build your own board from scratch, the necessary files and component lists are here.
  • [Note: you shouldn't need this, since this code is loaded on the ArduPilot board at the factory] Latest multiplexer code (for the board's second processor, an Attiny, which runs the failsafe system) is here.
    Instructions for loading this code are here.



Recommended UAV setup:

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Airframe option one: Hobbico SuperStar (49" wingspan, $95, shown above). This is an inexpensive, good flying high-wing trainer with ailerons. It can be hand launched in a park or take off from a runway, and replacement parts are readily available in case of a crash. If you want much better performance with this aircraft, you can upgrade it to a brushless motor, speed controller and a LiPo battery. [If you don't already have one, you'll also need a balancing charger and power supply.] Note: any stable aircraft with both ailerons (for stabilization) and rudder (for navigation) can work, so feel free to experiment with what you've got.

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Airframe option two (recommended for ArduPilot 2.x): EasyStar (shown above). Performance can be improved with the modifications described in this post.

You'll also need:

  • A six or seven channel RC transmitter and receiver, with at least one toggle switch (ideally three-position but two-position will work, too, although you will have to mix channels to have access to both autopilot modes in the air), such as the Futaba 7C.
  • Some servos (at least three for ArduPilot 1.0; at least two for ArduPilot 2.x) and at least three female-to-female servo cables to connect the RC receiver to ArduPilot.


Cool optional extras for your UAV:

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Comments

  • 3D Robotics
    You'll need an AVR Programmer (AVRISP II) to reload the firmware. The attiny code, if you need it, is in the Google Code repository.
  • Chris, Mark, thank you very much for your's answers. I watched both the board and the shield with a magnifier and I searched for a short/open: nothing found.
    As suggested by Mark I measured courrent drain: board is 17mA, board with shield is 23mA (alone, without anything connected).

    I have to say that this begin to happen after a bad reading of the board because of a bad functioning of the configtool with my pc.

    Could it be that this corrupted the firmware?
    Anyway I does not understand why it worked for a couple of flights before to die.

    I already searched for the attiny firmware but I can't find it on the sparkfun site.
    Best regards.

    Ric
  • Developer
    Riccardo,
    I had similar issues on bench tests,Your ESC maybe cutting out, please check for temporary short in wiring or, pinched or frayed wires etc. also remove shied and power each up alone to see which one drawing high current. Wires can have damage that is barely visible flex each also be gentle when cinching down cable ties. I use twist tie wraps to secure wiring/cables on my helicopters they won't cut the wires and are reusable, use the softer plastic version found in toy/electrons packaging. Hand tighten only. good luck.
  • 3D Robotics
    Check for a loose/broken connection or short somewhere? If you can't program the board or otherwise communicate with it, you've got an electrical problem, not a software issue.
  • In flight, when it happened, it was powered as usually by the esc (5,1V).
    When I program it I power the board connecting a 4cells nimh to the RCrx.
  • 3D Robotics
    Riccardo,

    We've never seen that problem. How are you powering your board?
  • Hi,

    this is not possible. All the times I improve my results other problems appear.
    Yesterday, during a flight the ardustation stopped to refresh data. Thinking that was because of a GPS problem I landed and discovered that the Ardupilot stopped to work.

    At home the AP worked ok for a short time and then it was impossible to read any data, to program it, or simply to have it working.
    When I power it the power led on the board light up, the one on the shield light briefly. Sometimes the mux led light up.
    No gps led, no status led.

    What could the problem be?

    Thanks a lot for any help!

    Ric
  • ah I see, sorry I just assumed that because I was not setting any waypoints (not using the config tool just yet) that the home altitude would have a setpoint somewhere that it would default to... so are you saying that if I don't set anything in the config file then the altitude it uses to return to launch is the current altitude when the switch is flipped? that is fine with me for now till I get this tuned better.

    So far it's turning nicely but elevation does not seem happy... I will increase that.... also i am using manual throttle untill it's tuned properly too.
  • 3D Robotics
    Steve,

    It's set in the config utility ("Alt (to hold)"). This is enabled even if "set manually" is not checked.

    Chris
  • T3
    so I apologise for such a silly question but where do I write in the home position elevation?

    The home position is set at the field wtih a jumper but where in the settings do I get to tell it the altitude to maintain at home?

    thanks!
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