[This original ArduPilot board, now called the "Legacy ArduPilot" is no longer produced or officially supported by the DIY Drones dev team, and this page is maintained just for historic reasons. However, there are still many users of it out there and it still works fine. The user group for Legacy ArduPilot users, for both thermopile and IMU use, is here.]
ArduPilot is a full-featured autopilot based on the Arduino open-source hardware platform. It uses infrared (thermopile) sensors or an IMU for stabilization and GPS for navigation. It is the autopilot used to win the 2009 Sparkfun Autonomous Vehicle Competition.
The hardware is available from Sparkfun for $24.95. An expansion board ("Shield") kits that includes an airspeed sensor, a 3.3v power regulator for 3.3v GPS modules and other sensors and cables and connectors for easy attachment of the XY and Z sensors, is available from our own store for $57.20.
User f
ArduPilot features include:
- Can be used for an autonomous aircraft, car or boat.
- Built-in hardware failsafe that uses a separate circuit (multiplexer chip and ATTiny processor) to transfer control from the RC system to the autopilot and back again. Includes ability to reboot the main processor in mid-flight.
- Multiple 3D waypoints (limited only by memory)
- Altitude controlled with the elevator and throttle
- Comes with a 6-pin GPS connector for the 4Hz uBlox5 or 1hz EM406 GPS modules.
- Has six spare analog inputs (with ADC on each) and six spare digital input/outputs to add additional sensors
- Supports addition of wireless modules for real-time telemetry
- Based on a 16MhZ Atmega328 processor. Total onboard processing power aprox 24 MIPS.
- Very small: 30mm x 47mm
- Can be powered by either the RC receiver or a separate battery
- Four RC-in channels (plus the autopilot on/off channel) can be processed by the autopilot. Autopilot can also control four channels out.
- LEDs for power, failsafe (on/off), status and GPS (satellite lock).
Resources:
ArduPilot requires the free Arduino IDE to edit and upload the code to the ArduPilot board.
The code is currently optimized for the Mutiplex EasyStar three-channel powered glider and FMA sensors, but can be modified for other aircraft and sensors. It uses the rudder/ailerons and elevator to maintain level flight and navigate to GPS waypoints. It supports a desktop setup utility and ground station software. It also includes a "fly-by-wire" mode that simply stabilizes RC flight. The main code is ArduPilot2.x.zip in the download section of our Google Code repository, where x is the latest version.
What you need to make a fully-functional autopilot:
- ArduPilot board
- Shield expansion kit with airspeed sensor
- GPS module (uBlox5 recommended)
- XY and Z sensors or ArduIMU+
- FTDI cable for programming
- [Optional] Two Xbee modules for wireless telemetry. This one in the air and this one with this antenna on the ground/laptop side. You'll also need two Xbee adapter boards. You can connect the airborne Xbee adapter to Ardupilot Mega with jumper wires.
Open source extras:
- If you want to build your own board from scratch, the necessary files and component lists are here.
- [Note: you shouldn't need this, since this code is loaded on the ArduPilot board at the factory] Latest multiplexer code (for the board's second processor, an Attiny, which runs the failsafe system) is here.
Instructions for loading this code are here.
Recommended UAV setup:
Airframe option one: Hobbico SuperStar (49" wingspan, $95, shown above). This is an inexpensive, good flying high-wing trainer with ailerons. It can be hand launched in a park or take off from a runway, and replacement parts are readily available in case of a crash. If you want much better performance with this aircraft, you can upgrade it to a brushless motor, speed controller and a LiPo battery. [If you don't already have one, you'll also need a balancing charger and power supply.] Note: any stable aircraft with both ailerons (for stabilization) and rudder (for navigation) can work, so feel free to experiment with what you've got.
Airframe option two (recommended for ArduPilot 2.x): EasyStar (shown above). Performance can be improved with the modifications described in this post.
You'll also need:
- A six or seven channel RC transmitter and receiver, with at least one toggle switch (ideally three-position but two-position will work, too, although you will have to mix channels to have access to both autopilot modes in the air), such as the Futaba 7C.
- Some servos (at least three for ArduPilot 1.0; at least two for ArduPilot 2.x) and at least three female-to-female servo cables to connect the RC receiver to ArduPilot.
Cool optional extras for your UAV:
- A GPS logger to record your mission and play it back in Google Earth
- A tiny video camera to record the flight
- A wireless video setup to see realtime video from the air
Comments
I have my system on the bench with a servo tester on the control channel.
Red Ardupilot board
Blue V2 Speed sensor board
Ublox GPS
XBee for telemetry
XYand Z sensors
Now everything seems to work...kinda...sorta
On the ArduStation hardware.....
Mode 0 Manual
Altitude = 6398
Hold Alt = 97
Mode 1 Waypoint
Altitude = 6398
Hold Alt = 5066
Mode 3 RTL
Altitude = 6398
Hold Alt = 97
Why first of all doesn't mode 0 and mode 2 read about 6400 ?
And why is the Hold Alt LOWER than what the GPS is reading ?
I did a Config Tool with all the equipment on the bench.
I set the Alt (to hold) at 100 feet.
I have both the Set Manualy and Over Terrian boxes checked. Radius Limit is set to 100. All are in feet.
Earl - Thanks
I read several times about triggering the 4th channel at a wp, but never found a solution.
Could please someone help, telling me what add to the code I have to do?
Thanks,
Ric
that is good one
I am studying it for the last few hours and let us hop, it should be able to resolve my issue.
In case I do not end up with any resolution, I will again get back to you.
I got one ArduPilot board (Blue) from a senior class student, he told me if I get the ATMEGA168 changed with that of ATMEGA328 then I should be able to run the latest code which is ver 2.45.
I got the microcontroller replaced with the help of an SMT expert mobile repair shop but since there was not bootloaded in the new microcontroller, so it did not communicate with the Arduino ver 17.
That is my only problem.
Thanks for the support !
it was at the end of point 3, but it seems you already removed it with the last edit.
I had some strange behavior with my first AP. After some time it begins to work again. On the other side I can't trust anymore a module that has a behavior like this.
In accordance with what Chris says I buyed a new one (and another as reserve). The price is so low that it can be considered as disposable and the second reserve unit cost me less than the eventual postage cost for a new one.
The first module woks alternately if I try to bend the board. In accordance to what Chris already said me, this could be a bad solder problem. Life is to short (and eyes no more so good :D) to try resoldering all the connections on the board.
Yes, in the past month I was very concerned with UDB, but the last week I upgraded it for FPV and restored my AP plane, and now flying both (ouff!).
Best regards,
Ric
I would like to report what I think could be a little confusing on the AP manual.
We can read in FIELD CALIBRATION at point 3:
If you have an EM406 GPS module, the yellow status LED will blink for a few seconds as the autopilot programs the GPS for binary mode (the uBlox module does not need such a programming step). Next the blue lock GPS LED will blink rapidly, which means the autopilot is waiting for GPS lock. You can now remove the jumper (or return the switch to the normal postion).
and then:
Q: Does the sensor calibration happen after GPS lock or before?
A: The answer is after. The calibration happens exactly when you remove the bind plug, takes like 1 second.
I think this could be confusing. Would it not be better said:
If you have an EM406 GPS module, the yellow status LED will blink for a few seconds as the autopilot programs the GPS for binary mode (the uBlox module does not need such a programming step). Next the blue lock GPS LED will blink rapidly, which means the autopilot is waiting for GPS lock.
When GPS lock is achieved, blue led swith to solid. You can now remove the jumper.
What means this line (which switch)?
(or return the switch to the normal postion).
Best regards,
Ric
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