ArduStation Assembly Instructions

What you will need:
-ArduStation Kit
-Soldering Iron:


-Flush/diagonal cutters:

-Low Profile Multimeter:

-Disordering Tool:

-This is what you will find inside the ArduStation components antistatic bag (LCD is included of course):

-Lets start soldering the non polarized capacitors (.1uF), when you are done place the xBee headers:

-After you placed the xBee headers, place any xBee module you have available to hold the headers in the right angle, then solder:

-Continue with the Atmega328 socket and the buzzer, watch out with the buzzer polarity!:

-Now place the protection diode (check the white strip) and the power regulator, be careful both have polarity too:

-Lets continue with the potentiometers, one is for the contrast with the number "103" or 10Kohms (UP) and the other with the long pins is for the backlight LED, with the number "502" or 5Kohms (down).

-An extra picture:

-Now solder the first 100uF polarized capacitors, check out the white strip (negative).

-Now solder the second 100uF polarized capacitors, check out the white strip (negative).

-No solder the 16Mhz Resonator (orange/brown one), is not polarized, the reset button and the power jack (easy):

Now we need to solder the LED's, but i have chosen very bright LED's in order to see something under the sun, but they are clear, so no way to see the color and one of the was inverted polarity (the long pin is the negative). A solution for that is using a the multimeter, just choose the continuity option or diode test (both will work):

This trick works great for SMD LED, for normal LED will not be so effective but it will work. Anyway just place the multimeter probes in the LED and see in with side the LED turns on and check the color also the LED side that the multimeter red probe is touching is the positive polarity of the LED. In the back of the board you can check the positive polarity of the LED holes:

-After you solder the LED's in the right way, is time to solder the funniest part, the buttons:

-Turn the board and place the Atmega328 carefully (the little half-circle divot on the chip should be on the side with the little half-circle in the socket; ignore the position of the red dot on the chip, which is not meaningful). The processors comes with bootloader pre-loaded:

-Now just solder the LCD (you can use female headers so you can remove the LCD anytime) and the FTDI port. You are ready to connect it. Note: You can't upload code when the xBee is connected.

-When you are ready, just upload the ArduStaion demo code here. It should work with ArduPilot and show you real time telemetry as indicated:

-By pressing the buttons left and right you can change the screen data.

You can find the latest code here:
The example is commented and you adapt this system to any of your projects!

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  • I confirmed the chip is the problem. I swapped the 328 out with one from a sparkfun arduino starter kit and this one works fine.

  • I removed the chip from the board and attached the legs directly to the FTDI socket (leg 7 -> +5V, leg 8 -> -ve, leg 2 -> tx, leg 3 -> rx). Still doesn't work. Presumably I need a new chip?

  • Distributor
    Hello Whooper did you mean you tried the Uno?
  • yes I've selected "Duemilanove or Nano mega 328" and check all the solder joints. Could this be a boot loader problem?

  • It means you are not connecting. Check your connections(like real solder & metal & stuff). Follow all that stuff in the manual.

  • Distributor

    Hello Whooper,

    Have you selected the correct chip in the IDE?

    Have you seen the information here:



  • I get the same error message and can't upload the code. I also tried programming with the xbee removed but doesn't help. FTDI cable is fine.

    Also only the green PWR LED lights up (with xbee removed). With xbee connected the green and red are full on (not flashing). Is this correct?

  • now i've tested it on 3 PCs with 2 different FTDIs. Same result.

  • I use exactly the same FTDI for programming the Arduino Pro mini 5V for my WiiKopter.

  • 3D Robotics

    Have you used that FTDI cable to program other boards? Maybe it's bad?

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