3D Robotics

Design files for IRIS+ now open source


Good news for IRIS+ fans. We've released the CAD files as STLs, so you can 3D print any replacement parts you need for free, including improved versions of the legs that are 50% lighter and require less support when printing. 


Our friends at MyMiniFactory are hosting these and have prepared a great tutorial on how to use them:

3D Robotics have been strong adovcates of open source collaboration and their IRIS+ and MADE FOR SOLO projects are testimony to that. 

If that wasn't enough, in all their awesomeness they have decided to give back to the community by giving away the files for the IRIS+ for free!

Over the last week MyMiniFactory has been building the first ever 3D printed IRIS+, so as to document the process and highlight any issues along the way.

In light of this Kirby Downey has released an optimised version of the arms and legs which are up to 50% lighter and require less support - download here.


Follows MyMiniFactory's step by step guide:


1) Remove the bottom shell by taking out the screws

2) On this shell, remove the LED and USB devices and insert them on the 3D printed bottom shell

3) Remove the screws that hold the bottom plate, and remove the top shell

4) On the top shell, disconnect all the wires from the pixhawk remember the way they were connected and where they were going

5) Take out the pixhawk and all the components that are are glued or screwed to the plate and place them on the 3D printed top plate

6) On the bottom plate, remove the connections to the pixhawk and remove the screws that hold the arms of the drone

7) Remove the foam carefully from the bottom plate

8) Take out the screws that holds the board and put it back the 3D printed small plate

9) Remove the 3 clips that holds the wires in the center of the arm

10) Close to the motor, make two marks on each wire so you don’t mix them once they are cut.

11) Cut the wires, take out the 2 screws that hold the motor and insert it into the 3D printed arm.

12) Solder the wires (you can use heat shrink wire wrap to hold your soldered joint) and put the clips back.

13) Screw the arms to the plate and the shell

14) Take out all the components that are glued to the top shell and place them into the 3D printed shell

15) Glue the foam of top plate back on the small plate.

16) Connect all the wires to the pixhawk again.

17) Screw the 3D printed top shell and the piece for the gimbal at the bottom.

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  • I melt em out of whatever I can with old soldering iron!

  • Developer

    here is a link to my repo where I put the files after download Buzz.


    Hacking the Iris repo. Contribute to proficnc/IRIS development by creating an account on GitHub.
  • Developer

    UPDATE:  I just recieved a DMCA takedown request for the copy that I put up on Thingiverse.  "We have received written notification pursuant to our Intellectual Property Policy that material you posted on Thingiverse (Thing:1418888) may infringe intellectual property owned by MyMiniFactory. Access to the content has been disabled.  ".      I don't think that's what Chris A had in mind when he "open sourced" them.   

  • Dale Greer - the push fits threaded inserts can be purchased from McMaster. That is were I buy my when building my drones, I can not remember the part number but I can look it up and let you know later. 

  • Niro Hattori the original SCAD files are also inside.

  • Here's a link to a collection of community designed 3D Print IRIS mods on their MyMinIFactory profile.


  • Hey Dale Greer, yes your right. we used 2.5mm diameter screw thread and board out the holes slightly.

  • A 250 sized iris + would be cool

  • I'm totally stoked about this for mapping experiments :)

  • Anyone going to shrink this down to 250 size?

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