Blogs

PL2Q Hugin, 3D printable quadcopter

Posted by Peter L on March 16, 2012 at 10:38am

3689448387?profile=original

I have released the second version of my 3D printable quadcopter the PL2Q Hugin, the first one was the PL1Q Vampire. There is a lot of improvements on this new version, also more focused at FPV and areal video.. 

You can download it from here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19161

Here is the presentation video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtMYRgkvqsk

Tags: 3d, pla, plastic, printer, quadcopter, ultimaker
E-mail me when people leave their comments –
Follow

You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!

Join diydrones

Comments

  • Peter L March 25, 2012 at 6:46pm

    What plastic are you printing with ? PLA or ABS ? I print with PLA, and i have no heatbed, on my build platform i have blue painters tape. Also you might wan't to print the arm with the foot (circle) under, i did make it to stick better to the printer :-) If you use ABS, i think you should use kepton tape, and a temp around 100c.. Nice work ! The motor mount fits 22xx-xx size motors (inside diameter of mount is 30mm)

  • Jason March 25, 2012 at 2:51pm

    What is the inside diameter of the motor mount?  I am looking for a replacement motor.

  • Moderator
    Roberto Navoni March 23, 2012 at 4:34pm

    Hi Peter ,

    I'm wokring progress to print your project with my first beta revision of MultiMaker32 :)

    https://plus.google.com/u/0/108932032205552825856/posts/J4B8crjVYxE

    This is a video of print your quad ... some suggestions ... how is the temp of extrusor and the of your bed ?

    What is your speed of extrusion ?

    I had some problem with tail ...when i print the first print was bad :

    IMG_20120323_184208.jpgThe first print on the left was wrong the scale ... the version on the right is good but it was too fast and so had the problem that you can see in the picture ...

    Then i change the speed going to 10 mm/s and the print ok , but i was a problem because at  the half of print the part disconnect from the bed :(

    What kind of solution do you use to anchor the tail during the print ? I use a simple bed with on it the tail at temperature of 60 degree and then after a while i put the temperature at 30 degree ...

    Are you using the glass over the hot bed ?

    Best

    Roberto

  • Peter L March 21, 2012 at 3:32pm

    The PLA arms do not warp and they do not flex (i print them standing).. So far i have only printed in PLA, i don't know how they would be with ABS.. I have an Ultimaker, and i use replicatorg (0025) and skeinforge 35. There are newer versions but i haven't taken the time to upgrade, when i gotten som free time i have been in sketchup.. I know about the Rep rap, and i think if you get the hardware working, then the software calibration is easy..

  • Moderator
    Roberto Navoni March 18, 2012 at 4:14pm

    Great Work Peter :)

    I buy a Reprap Prusa , and now i'm working around to try to doing good print but is not so simple ;) Do you know reprap prusa ? What software are you using on Makerboat ?  How is simple the calibration ?

    This is the first picture of my new printer : http://www.virtualrobotix.com/photo/img-20120309-205639?context=latest

    Best

    Roberto

  • Ellison Chan March 16, 2012 at 2:12pm

    Ha! Nice demo.  It's strong, but no warping?  They always come out straight?

    I also designed a 3D printed frame, but using the SLA printers at Shapeways.  That nylon material is also pretty tough too.

    photo72814.jpg

  • Peter L March 16, 2012 at 2:00pm

    I print with PLA plastics, and there is no issues at all, and the arms are very strong.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwZ5aTlU0iY

  • Ellison Chan March 16, 2012 at 1:42pm

    That's very interesting.  Any problems with printing those arms? Isn't it too long to get straight prints, due to the difference in cooling rates of the plastic?

This reply was deleted.