So,  last weeks episode ended with me with my head hanging low and the contemplation that hard drugs and hard alcohol could possibly act as a substitute for my obsession to get into multicopters.

(See http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/things-that-go-up-tears)

That was the past... this weekend I finished replacing my frame with an XAircraft Hexa.  For those unfamiliar with my saga, my jDrones Hexa ended in a pile of twisted metal last Monday night.  Still in a sense of shock, I ordered the XAircraft Hexa Carbon Fiber and Plastic frame from Taiwan, which I recieved Wednesday!  The new frame is about 3" diameter smaller that the old one, but solidly built.  I never wieghed the jDrones with all of the electronics and legs made out of buckets, but this one feels a little heavier.  The 10" blades come within .5" of each other, so there will be no 12" props on this one.  I also woried about the turbulance caused by them being so close. 

By Saturday, the hexa was back in the air!  I flew it with standard default 2.3 setting and it seems to fly fine.  I haven't yet determined the nuances that I should be tweeking, so it can't be all that bad.  took it to a local school (site of the last disaster) and flew it in stabilize, Loiter and RTL.  Everything worked out spectacular, but I may want to play around with Loiter as the radius is about 3 meters. 

I was a very nervous after the last crash that all of the work I put in would end up with me having to get a box to gather up the pieces when this one crashes.  But I am claiming success!

Here's some pics of the thing I am calling "Black Widow".  Partially becsause its black and looks like a spider, and partially because it scares the hell out of me.

 

 

Tags: Hexa, XAircraft

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sweet looking hexa

Thanks Glen. I was happy with the outcome. Now if I learn to fly it without totally destroying it, life will be grand. I am definitely better at building than flying.

does look very good and i particularly like the lighting, where did you get that forward facing set of white leds?

the landing looks nice too, is that part of the frame kit?

james

The forward LEDs were one of those cheap items near the check out at Micro Center. They are 6 volt and decently bright. Running at about 200 mA when on. I haven't wired them into the main battery yet, but they were around $4, so I bought two. I had to dremel a bit on them to make them fit in between the rails, but I thought they came out decent. I think they are meant for a hat visor, but the curve worked for what I was going for. When I get a chance I will show a pic of the packaging. I am sure you can get them on line for cheap. My wife has decided its time to remodel all the rooms at once, so I am living like Grizzy Adams right now. I am seriously hampered in what I can do and sleep is coming at a premium.

Landing gear was part of the frame kit, yes. Legs are very mallable and the rods are crabon fiber. Dome is a dummy security camera dome I picked up on line for $6. I bought 4 since it was dirt cheap.

Any worry about the heat under the dome, or is there enough airflow from underneath to keep things cool enough? Might be a dumb question, haven't built one yet.

Good question.  I don't think it's an issue, there isn't that much heat generated inside, most power dissapation is at the motor, or at least I would hope (efficient design and all that).  I'll try to find out.  i would expect the ESC would be the hottest.  I can put a peak hold temp sensor on one to find out how hot it gets or just float it in the dome for ambient temp.  It's certainly not a concern with winter temps, but I'll have to check that.

I went through a very similar situation as you, and am currently replacing my jdrones hexa with this bad boy.  Already very happy, and this is only after 10 minutes of assembly (it seems very sturdy)!  Question though, how/where did you attach the hexa-pcb to the frame? A little confused on the best method for doing so... 

Thanks,

Blaine

I had to drill four holes in it to line it up.  I don't have a picture, but you just don't want to skinny up a current carrying trace.  I believe the holes lined up pretty well so as not to do that.  You will find the placement of the four hole on any of the plates (these are the holes where the thing that looks like a battery mount attaches).  You could use that battery mount plate as a template for the holes required.  Then use some of your polycarbonate hex standoffs to attach it. If that is clear enough, cool.  If not, I could go take some pics without taking it apart (not ideal pics :)

I believe it had to be mounted upside down in my case, which made getting the right control wires to the right motor a little disorientating.  That may not be the case for you, depending on how you soldered it.

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