Dangerous situation - RC catches fire while testing APM 2.0. Suggestions?

 

Had a pretty traumatic experience today while I was trying to get an APM 2.0 working on an RTF "trainer," when I turned off the transmitter and the ESC burst into flames. I was hoping the community might be able to point me in the direction of a solution.

I was ground-testing an electric RC (a Hobbico NexStar electric) with an APM 2.0. The APM was completely stock, and had been loaded with firmware from the Mission Planner without any modification. Controls were calibrated on the Mission Planner as instructed in the wiki, with CH5 on the transmitter dedicated to switching between manual and "stabilize." This was using a Futaba 6ch controller.

The jumper was connected on JP1, in the stock configuration on the APM 2.0. I was supplying power to the output rail via 4.8v NiCd power source, which I checked beforehand actually was supplying about 5V. A standard feature of this trainer-style airplane, an external on/off switch was between the power source and the output rail. The 50A ESC used in the RC airplane did not have a BEC. A previous test without APM 2.0 proved the servos, ESC, motor, RX and TX were all working as designed.

With the APM installed in the airframe and connectors attached as per the wiki, I turned on the transmitter and then the power source to the APM. In manual mode, all controls responded to inputs as was expected. I switched CH5 to "stabilize," and servos and control surfaces responded to yaw, pitch and roll, albeit in the reverse, and potentially with not enough input (I chalked this up to a calibration issue I hoped to resolve after shutting everything down).

I switched CH5 on the transmitter (CH8 on the APM 2.0 input rail) back to "manual," and then turned off the transmitter. The motor turned quickly as if responding to input, then stopped, and smoke rolled out of the electronics bay, followed promptly by a fire coming from the ESC. This fire got approximately 6 inches tall from the ESC and began to burn away the aircraft's external coating and lighted the wood frame of the fuselage. I yelled to my wife to run and get the fire extinguisher, which she ripped off the wall and passed to me, and I applied the extinguisher directly to the electronics bay. This put out the flame and saved the house, and I carried out the airplane to the back yard for safety. By this time, there was no more smoke.

An inspection after the fire showed that a section of external coating was burned, as was some of the balsa frame. Several wires leading to the ESC (two motor wires and battery positive wire) were melted right through. Although the LiPo batteries were mounted next to where the fire took place, they appeared at least on visual inspection to be unharmed by the fire. APM and receiver seemed unharmed from a visual inspection, but I'm not certain at this time whether the chemical flame retardant from the extinguisher has altered the function of those electronics.

At this point, I'm real hesitant to test this particular APM 2.0 on a new ESC to investigate the problem, and I'm really concerned about this as a safety issue. Does anyone know of a condition whereby the autopilot would supply max current to the ESC if the connection between TX and RX is severed? Thank you.

 

Specs:

TX: Futaba 6EXA 6ch
RX: Futaba R168DF
ESC: Hobbico SS-50D 50A (w/o BEC)
Motor: RimFireTM 42-50-800 Outrunner Brushless Motor

More pics:

Left side of aircraft, showing damage to external coating.

Electronics bay shortly after the event. In front are dual LiPo batteries, wrapped in protective foam. The 4.8v RX/APM power source can be seen hanging over the edge of the aircraft on the right of the photo. Yellow residue is flame supressant.

A shot of the APM and RX upon extraction. Both were coated in a thick layer of frame suppressing powder, until some of it was vacuumed off.

Views: 2255

Comment by Harry on July 15, 2012 at 3:26pm

Glad it wasnt worse for you!  I cant help but notice the stickers; "Electrifry" and "RimFire".  I'd say you need to look for the hot spot and try to get to the cause.  Maybe then with some help you can pinpoint it and see what is salvageable of the elctronics.  First thought was electronic spray cleaner, but safety first.

Comment by Harry on July 15, 2012 at 3:43pm

I read it again.  Is it possible you had motor wires touching like maybe connectors were exposed a little and they touched from being jostled?  I had an ESC smoke once from a motor short.  I hit throttle and got a smoke and light show. 

Comment by Vernon Barry on July 15, 2012 at 3:45pm

FIrst off, since you don't have a BEC and further, were powering the APM via a second battery, the only explanation for the main battery and ESC to fail is the ESC and or wiring was bad. In other words, it's not like the APM was able to send a "kill" signal to the ESC and cause this fire just because you turned the transmitter off.

It's an RC airplane first, and then the APM only adds functionality. Had you not had the APM, it still likely would have done exactly the same thing. There is no signal that the APM could have put out, and further, that your ESC interpreted to cause it to fail.

Several wires leading to the ESC (two motor wires and battery positive wire) were melted right through.

Exactly as I am saying, you had a wiring issue totally unrelated to the APM or any other controls.

Does anyone know of a condition whereby the autopilot would supply max current to the ESC if the connection between TX and RX is severed?

As I stated, there is no signal other than max PWM AKA full throttle. The same signal that your RC receiver would put out. There is no Max current, only the same PWM as the radio, and in fact, when you calibrate the radio in mission planner, you can compare the input and output singals looking at the raw data screen. You can also see what outputs do in failsafe when you turn off the transmitter to prove to yourself there is nothing funky about the APM.

 

What I did notice from the photos, is that your main batteries are in series. Maybe I missed it but you didn't post the main battery specs for each one.

From this thread here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7341988/printable.htm I see the ESC and Motor you mentioned are used by others but one thing stands out, it's rated for 5 cells MAX. If you plugged in 2 each 3 cell batteries, that's 6 cells or one more cell than the ESC is rated for. This would be the exact thing to blow the ESC sky high.

Comment by Jiro Hattori on July 15, 2012 at 3:47pm

It looks like wires from ESC? get burned seriously. The connector to the LiPo looks still has shape.

Comment by Jesse on July 15, 2012 at 3:49pm

This is exactly why I will never venture from nitro/gas engines... no crazy, overpriced, spontaneously-combusting electronics to deal. Just fuel and go! :-D

Comment by Ritchie on July 15, 2012 at 4:03pm

Lets quantify the situation.

APM is 5v and less than 1A - safe

ESC is whatever your LiPOs are -  create a spark

LiPOs - create spark or fire

Its doubtful that the LiPOs did this as when they go up a fire extinguisher would not have helped.

If a spark was all that occured then what did it burn? the electronics are not flammable so look for something else was the fire fuel. You need to isolate all forms material within your craft to check for flammability. Some plastics can produce fire if heated sufficiently so you may have the ESC too close to some plastic.

ESCs have been placed inside airframes with "sufficient" space and deformed the EP around it very easily (my first easystar). Also dont forget fibreglass has resin to harden it and that is highly flammable.

These are just off the top of my head but i hope it helps you narrow your focus

Comment by Matthew Schroyer on July 15, 2012 at 4:23pm

First, thank you all for your responses.


@Harry - I had tested this RTF kit before without the APM 2.0, and no such issue came about. If it had a wiring issue, I think it would have exhibited odd behavior at that time.

@Vernon - I would chalk the melted wires to the fact that the ESC blew, and I'm not ruling out the ESC as being a part (or even the major part) of the issue, but I am confused about something you said. The APM was still powered even as the transmitter was shut off, as it had a power source independent of the main battery and the ESC -- are you sure there's no way for the APM to send a throttle signal? Maybe I'm not understanding you 100 percent, but doesn't the calibration screen only register inputs from the receiver (not what it's outputting)? I've gone back to the mission planner radio calibration to check the behavior of the receiver when the transmitter is cut, and the throttle drops out every time. It doesn't appear the receiver is sending max throttle when the TX is cut, at any rate.

Comment by Harry on July 15, 2012 at 4:40pm

That's the thing about motor shorts, they can be intermittent with changes in torque or how the bearings are seating.  If it is an internal short in the motor, first place to look is the front of the motor where a winding could touch the bell.  A telltale sign of that is the wire is shiny where the insulation came off from rubbing and is flat spotted. The windiings on a motor can be fragile before they go into those beefy wires on the outside.  

I was also wondering if bullet connectors had been bumped and enough exposed to short if they touched accidentally.

Comment by Matthew Schroyer on July 15, 2012 at 5:11pm

@Harry - A short in the motor wasn't something I hadn't considered, but I need to inspect the motor anyway. The bullet connectors actually appeared fine - this RTF came with the connectors already connected, and the connection was shrink-wrapped. It's actually a pretty nice package. But again, the motor was still at the time the TX was turned off, and I don't think the motor would turn at all unless it had a current coming from the ESC.

Oh, and to clarify my last comment, the APM actually appears to be working after all of this -- that's how I was able to connect it to the PC and the RX and check the calibration again. I suppose what I really need to do from here is connect it to a new ESC and a different motor and see if I can get it to replicate this behavior. I might just be able to find some time tonight to do that. Outside, of course.

Comment by Björn Geir Leifsson on July 15, 2012 at 5:14pm

There's a sizeable electrolytic capacitor in  ESC's. It looks like a small drum, usually sitting between the feeding wires. From the pictures it looks like this  capacitor burnt up and torched the hole in the fuselage side.

Here's a video that shows how these things can fire if overloaded:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8nT97CrgcU

As suggested, you should check if you fed the ESC with too high tension. I agree that it is extremely unlikely that the APM can have caused this.

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