These are the fully 3D printed T4 (quadcopter), Mini T4 (quadcopter), and T6 (coaxial hexacopter) designs I've posted on Thingiverse.com (aside: "T" is for Tubular). The comments section on Thingiverse doesn't provide a great place for discussing designs so I've created this topic here instead.
These designs are based on a tubular arm with a vertical "I" beam running down the centre. This design seems to be very strong and rigid and all of these designs are very stable in flight.
Other common features include:
- motor wiring is routed through the arms and down into an enclosed (ventilated) power and ESC tray.
- batteries are located in the centre of rotation (T6 is designed for dual batteries).
- bevelled cable "tunnels" provide a way to route cables between the power tray and top plate.
- Top plate is designed for Pixhawk or APM flight controllers with elevated GPS.
- Bottom tray has mounting points for a Tarot Gimbal.
- Optional long and short legs include "springy" feet. The legs are designed so the 3D printed threads "wrap around" the arms which makes them quite strong for their length.
- Sketchup files are included so folks can modify both designs to suit their needs.
I figure I've put hundreds of hours into these designs with prototypes and drawing time. I'd love to get feedback from anyone who makes one. Together we can improve these designs for everyone's benefit.
Replies
Great to hear Terry!
Are you using a radio connection or with the Pixhawk directly plugged into your PC via USB?
Presumably a Windows PC?
If USB, can you open Windows Device Manager before you plug in your Pixhawk, then plug in and watch it add the boot loader device, then a few seconds later that will disconnect that and the main "mavlink" device will show - hopefully in the Ports (COM& LPT) section. What description does it show in there? (something about FMU?) If so, take note of that serial port and make sure that is selected in Mission Planner with 115k baud rate before you click Connect in MP.
If connecting via radio instead then that device should also show in the device manager Ports section but the baud rate in mission planner needs to be 56k instead of 115k.
Using USB in Windows 8.1 (64 bit) and what I believe is the latest version of Mission Planner.
It is using COM5 for the port. It seems to load normally - but it always shows 9600 bits per second in the port properties window. Trying to change the baud rate at the com port or in the program doesn't seem to help.
I'll give it another go tomorrow. I have everything connected - battery, qbrain, receiver, GPS and compass. And have the transmitter on. Is that right. The PixHawk documentation leads me to believe that everything should be connected. Does that seem right?
Same platform as me (Win 8.1, 64-bit). You don't need to change any settings in Device Manager ... just the baud rate in Mission Planner before you click connect.
What is the description of the port in Device Manager? As long as Mission Planner was installed before the Pixhawk was connected for the first time then it should be using the correct driver - otherwise perhaps try: 1) plug in pixhawk, 2) find port in Device manager and select uninstall, 3) unplug and after a few seconds replug in Pixhawk and see if it gets detected as a different device?
Sorry, one more thought. Have you already been to the initial setup page in Mission Planner and installed the copter firmware yet? You don't need click Connect in Mission Planner before you do that - just make sure it has the correct COM port and baud rate selected before you go to the Install Firmware page.
Brendan-
Finally got approved to post on this forum. I saw your post over in the Makergear forums, and build one of my own. I used to work with AUAVs 20 years ago, but it's been a while.
Couple of questions, however. I built mine using PLA, and this seems to be a mistake. The first one was left in a hot car and bent a little. The second one was assembled, but the motors get to hot, them warp the mounting holes in the arms. Is your's ABS??
Next- I used the following equipment: 3DR 850Kv motors, a KK2.1 with updated firmware, a QBrain 20Amp ESC, the Tunigy 9x transmitter/receiver, and several 3cell 4000mah nano cells. I calibrated the ESCs, programed the KK, and finally got it flying, but one motor seems to start late, sometimes even going backwards a few turns, and runs hot. How can I find out if the motor is bad, or there is something else wrong (esc, KK board, ect?)
Thanks, and boy, this is fun.
Mark
Hi Mark. It's great to hear you are having fun with this project.
I also do all of my printing in PLA and haven't had any problems with it softening due to heat. It's winter here here now but I was doing some long flights in the summer on 30 degC (86 degF) ambient days with no problem. One suggestion might be to use the "cross" plate that comes with the motors as a washer to spread the load and disperse some heat (with longer bolts). I just use normal 3mm washers under my motor bolts.
I believe inside the QBrain each ESC is independent - perhaps just try calibrating the troublesome ESC again (perhaps by plugging it directly into the RC receiver). Motors do sometimes do funny things under very slight throttle until the ESC is able to sense the rotation properly. Running hot might be sign of a bearing or shaft problem but I am no expert on that sorry.
What would your opinion be about making the bottom place more of a hull, and doing similar for the ends of the arms under the motors? I am looking for a design that will work well from a boat in the Caribbean. I like the tubular arms. I was even thinking of shaping styrofoam hull and hemispheres for the arms. With the GoPro on top, it might be capable of surviving a water landing in salt water.
It sounds like an interesting project but I'm not sure 3D printing is the best option (not waterproof). I think your Styrofoam idea is a good one. Perhaps you could mount some outriggers to something like these legs? Remember to try and get some cooling into the power tray though. I have seen quadcopters made almost entirely out of pool noodles which could be fun :-)
I finally got around to getting my T4 assembled and wired. I am a newbie newbie at this RC stuff =, so please bear with a couple of simple questions.
It appears everything is up and "talking". I am using Pixhawk with radio telemetry. I have made it through most of the initial setup in Mission Planner. compass, and gyro read correct and GPS locks on.
Which initial frame configuration do I select? I think I read IRIS somewhere, but can't locate the post.
I am a bit stuck on the radio calibration. I held out and purchased the Taranas X9D. Being a newbie, I didn't realize it would come "dumb" and I would need to program it. I am struggling a bit but have only been through the docs once. I can't seem to come up with a mode that puts the sticks with the correct channel. Pitch and roll are reversed and I can't find a mode that gets them in the right place. I'm assuming I selected something incorrect with my basic config of the Taranas and need to go back through and digest it again. Is this likely the issue?
There are a bunch of switches on the transmitter and the Pixhawk has many flight modes. Is there and standard that an RC person would expect certain quad modes to be on certain switches? OR, how did you set up yours? If you have programmed your Taranas, would you consider sharing the setup?
Any other setup parameters that could be shared would be much appreciated.
I can't believe the cool functionality that is built into this technology.
Hi Terry. It sounds like you are making great progress.
I'd recommend loading the default parameters for Iris - that will select the correct frame type and some other things. Depending on your motors, ESC, etc you may need to do some tuning.
How is your radio receiver connected to the Pixhawk? If you have one cable for each channel then you can just swap cables around to suit. If you are using a single cable then you will want to tweak on the transmitter. This video might help (and the next one or two in the series).
Have fun and keep me posted. I look forward to seeing your one"Made" on Thingiverse (if you get time).
Cheers.
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