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RT @Heavy02011: @diyrobocars : A Home-brew computer club* for Connected Autonomous Driving. talk at #piandmore @PiAndMore on Jan 23rd h…
RT @a1k0n: New blog post! Deep dive into my ceiling light based localization algorithm which runs in 1ms on a Raspberry Pi 3:
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Great new guide to using @donkey_car
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New version of Intel OpenBot! This resolves many of the issues with the first version, including a much smoother tr… https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1352395636369313798
RT @Heavy02011: @diyrobocars : A Home-brew computer club* for Connected Autonomous Driving on Jan 23rd, 2021 https://www.meetup.com/Connected-Autonomous-Driving/events/275728684/ #Meetu…
RT @Heavy02011: @diyrobocars Autonomous Driving Assembly at #rC3. join us at https://rc3.world/rc3/assembly/diyrobocars-f1tenth/ @f1tenth @DAVGtech @DWalmroth…
RT @chr1sa: New car designs coming for our next @DIYRobocars @donkey_car virtual race on the 23rd. Choose any one you want at race time
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Hi Josh .... I built a HEXA using HobbyKing's S550 frame that included motors, props and ESC's. Here's the link to the kit I used: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-s550-hexcopter-combo-frame-.... Your dimensions and weight reminded me of my build project. I'm hoping the specs. you can review in the link will help with your decisions. Also, I built a quad of a similar size and used the same motors and ESCs for the quad. One quick comment. If you use the PixHawk flight controller don't use EMAX Heli ESCs. I originally couldn't get the FC to talk to the ESCs and after some routing around the internet found a discussion that these ESCs had a capacitor that was the cause of the problem. I quickly replaced the ESCs and it is an awesome flier. Plenty of power and lift ability on both models. Good luck.
Sunny Sky motors and some other motor manufacturers have thrust charts for various suggested propellers. Typically rule of thumb is you want to produce at least twice the weight of your multirotor in thrust. Best thing to do is find a copter similar you what you are planning on flying and using that motor/prop combo as a starting point.
Josh take a look at the video at the bottom of the home page
the one in the video that I am flying is the 22"Scout
Tiger Motors 4006-720kv
12" props.
take a look at my website I have built the same thing
www.rcmantaray.com
Josh,
The selection of the motors, battery, and props, is fundamental. If you get it wrong all your efforts are for nothing.
I seriously recommend you use a prop and motor calculator like ecalc.ch, it does have a bit of a learning curve, and, you do need to pay (very small amount) for this service but its worth it for the very important feedback you will get on any proposed combination of devices. Without this your just shooting in the dark.
Its critical for your design to hover at 50% throttle or lower. You can also calculate your flight time, additional payload limit, max speed, and other useful things. If your an aeronautical engineer you probably don't need an on-line calculator but then you would not be asking for the results of a complicated in important question.
I don't work for ecalc, I just had success with this system.
You can use a tipical 450-500 power combo. 2212-2213 motors (900-960 kv), with 9,5x4,7 props with 4 cell battery
I think the 3d printed frame not too strong. I'm using TBS Discovery frame clone from China.
My unit with all electronics, motors and 3D printed arms weighs in at 434g. I use multistar 2204-2300 motors wth gemfan 5x3 props.
PixRacer250
Mike