Hi everyone,
I'm creating this thread to share your drone/copter information. I believe, this would help immensely for newbies like me during the initial build. For example, the Chris's blog on cheap Hobby King quad configuration is really a good resource.
I don't want to burden anyone who is willing to share their info. Hence all fields are optional. Atleast the first 5 fields are ideal. Please find the list of fields to copy/paste at the end, so you can start filling :-).
Here goes information about my quad.
frame: Quadcopter (3DRobotics)
controller/autopilot: APM1
esc: 20A (3DRobotics)
motors: 850Kv (3DRobotics)
propellers: 10x47, APC (3DRobotics)
motor to motor distance: -- inches
battery: 4S 3300mAh (Turnigy nano-tech)
total weight: -- lbs
flying time: 15 minutes (average)
radio: Turnigy 9X
video/osd: none
other: Sonar, Xbee, GPS/Mag, Attopilot current sensor
Misc:
Turnigy 9X: Mode1 -> Mode2 change, Li-ion battery hack
photos:
-------------
frame:
controller/autopilot:
esc:
motors:
propellers:
motor to motor distance: -- inches
battery:
total weight: -- lbs
flying time:
radio:
video/osd:
other:
Misc (hacks/mods):
photos:
Replies
This is my latest small 450g Y6 with 8 inch props.
Frame: Custom carbon fiber frame and HK landing gear
Controller: APM1-1280 gps mag sonar custom rgb leds
Firmware: The freshest GIT!
Motor: hexTronik 16g 1700kv
ESC: Turnigy Plush / 6a
propellers: Gemfan Carbon Nylon 8x4.5
Battery: 300 and 2200 mah 10 minutes and 13 minutes
Radio: Turnigy 9x Er9x firmware FRSKY tx/rx 8ch
Flys very smooth and stable with locked in yaw on current GIT.
wow, no planes until now? only copters?
here it goes:
frame: self-made fiberglass/carbon fiber/plywood tricopter frame
controller/autopilot: KK board for now, APM2 still on simulator only
motors: TR2826 1350kv (overheating, going to change for DT750 soon)
esc: Mystery 30A
propellers: GWS DD 8x4 (overheats the motors, but works)
battery: 3S 2.2A
flying time: 8min
radio: Futaba 7C + FrSky Module
video/osd: HK 900mhz 1.5W
other:
Misc (hacks/mods):
photos: old one, replaced and changed location of escs
frame: Kepler FPV
controller/autopilot: APM2 still on simulator
motors: NTM 3530 1100kv
esc: Turnigy Plush 25A
propellers: APC 11x7e
battery: 3S 4.4A (2 x 3S 2.2A)
flying time: 15min
radio: Futaba 7C
video/osd: Remzibi + HK 900mhz 1.5W
other:
Misc (hacks/mods):
photos:
Hi, here is my new light weight quad.
Frame: Turnigy / Talon Carbon Fiber Quadcopter
Controller: APM1 Oilpan
Firmware: 2.5.3 / STABD=0.005
Motor: Turnigy / C2822-1600
ESC: Hobby King / 12A
propellers: GWS / HD-9050X3
Battery: Zippy / 2200mAh,3S1P,25C
Radio: Futaba / R617FS
Others: GPS
Total Weigth: 864g
Hello All,
I'm new to the community and to MultiCopters. Started with a Blade mQX a couple of months ago, and last week I built the following (still waiting for the rain to stop for her maiden flight [damn the record breaking rain-fall]:
frame: Quadcopter (jDrones)
Controller/Autopilot: APM1
Motors: 880Kv (jDrones)
ESCs: 30A (jDrones)
Propellers: 12x45 (jDrones)
Battery: S3 2200mAh (Turnigy)
Flying Time: unknown at this time
Radio: Spetrum DX6i and AR6210 receiver
Video/OSD: none
Other: none
Misc (hacks/mods): none
Photos:
Wow looks really cool. I am new to r/c. I have the dx6i also. My buddy has a 3d printer we want to make a quad. I also have a Blade qx 180 and Apprentice plane that i fly with my radio. If you want could you coach me up? I am an electronic tech in Las Vegas. Thanks alot.
Hi Wally,
For the 3D printed quad, are you making your own design, or did you download from online? I am currently designing (modifying an existing design) of a quadcopter in Sketchup that I will 3D print, and the quad is foldable.
I use PLA (easier to print). I am new to 3D printing; I did not get the chance to print with ABS yet. My printer is a Mendel90 Dibond Kit (the original one from Nopehead)
I am modifying this qudcopter: http://multirotorpilotmag.com/fpvquad/
I 3D printed that design with no modifications, but I don't like how it was designed, it looks pretty, but not very well thought. The design is too thin, and it bends easily, also I don't like about it is that with a 3D printer you can design exactly where things go, and make "enclosures" for it, but with that design I still have to use zip ties to hold the electronics together! So I am modifying the design to fit my requirements, I am actually measuring the size of my receiver, the size of the battery, ESCs, BEC, flight controller, etc., and I am putting them in the 3D design so that everything will fit properly when 3D printed. I am also new to 3D design, but I am learning fast, and I made many improvements to the original design, and I put A LOT of hours into it so far.
Sounds like it. We have a warping problem when printing now. Trying to fix that. I want to build one the size of a Blade 200. I love my QX180 i just want same type i.e. not the big body of the 200. I need motors and props that will handle the size and thrust to carry a 2000mah battery. I have found CC3D flight controller and i heard you want simonk esc's. Have you seen any good threads that discuss this type of info? Thanks
Hi Wally, we really should find some other place to talk about this, because when we post a message, everyone in this thread gets an email notification. But since I am posting this message, I will try to answer to your problem.
Warping happens when I print also, but it is very minimal, and I ignore it. But some parts (like gears) it's a big problem. In those cases, I usually turn on the cooling fan at layer 6 (instead of the default layer 3), and also I lower the speed of the cooling fan to 50%. Also, try to increase the temperature of the heated bed by 5 or 10 degrees. Also, try to make the first layer thinner (squished more), I just put the bed 0.1 mm higher. The first layer will look bad, but at least it wont warp as much. You may not need to do all these things, but something that I know for sure will work (with my printer anyways) is to turn off the cooling fan for the first few layers.
I hear on the forums that ABS warps more than PLA, so try printing in PLA.
Of course you can also try printing with a raft.
As for the flight controller, I am using the Naze32, and for ESC, I am using "RCTimer ESC 30A SimonK Firmware (OPTO)"
-
17
-
18
-
19
-
20
-
21
of 21 Next