I've just wrapped up a new design based upon a lot of ideas I stole found on this site.
I've posted full details of the build and more pictures on my website:
You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!
I've just wrapped up a new design based upon a lot of ideas I stole found on this site.
I've posted full details of the build and more pictures on my website:
You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!
Comments
Shut up and take my money!
Tom, I am building a quad with a similar configuration and I am trying to figure out the best placement of the spironet antenna. I was wondering if you have had any trouble with the video signal when you are flying towards yourself, since the battery and body of the quad may be in the way. What kind of safe flying range do you get with your video setup?
Glad you like it Murray. Your designs are what started me on my road to this one. I pretty much stole your hinging design. My compassmot is around 5% to 6% using the APM's onboard magnetometer. I was concerned that the APM's close proximity to the battery and its high current would be a problem but apparently not. Also in the fuselage the power wiring leads are tightly zip tied together to minimize their spacing and thus minimize the generated magnetic field. The motors are T-Motors MN3110-26 470KV units.
There is a lot I like about this design. I imagine you could easily vacuumform a lightweight cover for it to hide all the electronics. I had also started placing everything on top for various reasons.
Can you tell us what compassmot values you get and what motors you use?
(and thanks for the mention of my blog. Good to see people doing their own thing)
Azhar, you may have misinterpreted my description. The only aluminum in the thing are the 4-40 screws. Both the fuselage and arms are of composite construction. The top and bottom skins are 0.80 mm thick G-10 fiberglass sheets (from Amazon.com strangely enough). They are epoxied with a structural epoxy to spacers of Basswood, a light but strong wood. The wood is there to take compression loading while the G-10 takes the tensional loading (Similar in concept to a reinforced concrete beam....but it flies) One of the pictures on my web site shows the construction progression of an arm. This sort of composite construction turns out to be really stiff and using such dissimilar materials tends to reduce vibration transmission. The battery box superstructure is all made out of 2.4 mm plywood as it's light, very easy to fabricate and has good strength qualities.
Holy crap!! This is almost exactly like the quad I am currently trying to build.
Using alu frame is interesting option I haven't considered. I've been away from alu frame for a while and kept thinking about carbon and carbon and G10. Maybe I should start thinking about alu again(?). Do you have any specific reason for using alu compared to carbon or such? How does it handle? How much vibration? etc etc.
Looking at that quad of yours my first thought was: I need to talk with this guy :D // good job!
Gary I had never considered mounting a gimbal "upside down", but that would be interesting to try. The quad currently hovers at 50% throttle with a full camera load so I probably could handle the extra weight.
Those orange isolators do seem to need some sort of minimum mass to be effective. It was my original intent to also include any camera in the loaded mass but it didn't work out. I do have some concerns about decoupling the APM from a good hunk of the frame due to the isolation but so far I haven't seen any ill behavior.
I originally had my APM, which sits on top of the battery box superstructure, hard strapped to it as an experiment. I measured the vibration levels and they were within acceptable limits but not great. I could have left it that way but it just seemed I could do a lot better without much effort. So I went ahead and added a small square of Kyosho Zeal under each corner of the APM and the vibrations dropped to between .15 and .20. I'm quite happy with that.
Actually Tom,
I was wondering about the possibility of a custom stabilized brushless gimbal mounted more or less where you have your camera now.
The Orange isolators are listed as silicone (not gel) on the GetFPV site and are probably too stiff to use for direct mounting of a flight controller only.
I am guessing yours works so well because you are also using the mass of the batteries in the vibration isolated and suspended portion.
They would probably work for camera gimbal isolation as well.
Kabir, my website is just a modest personal one I did for my own amusement and not many viewers. But since I started it I've received an appalling number of hack attempts on it. 90% of them came from 5 countries. I'm not a web site expert, so for me the easiest thing to do was to institute country blocking for those countries. After that my problem pretty much went away. If you use a proxy, VPN or other means to spoof your country of origin you can access my site. I am sorry about the inconvenience.
Damien, I found a real convoluted interdependence between the prop size, arm length and body length if I wanted it to fold and nest as I described. Since the main goal was easy transport in a backpack, I needed the body as short as possible. I think the arms are too long as they are, but I can't make them shorter without making the body longer, and thus heavier. My reference to a lot of CAD work concerned this. I was doing all sorts of permutations and seeing how they folded. There were a lot of constraints I didn't see coming until I digitally tried to fold things. Much more involved (and frustrating!) than I expected.
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