Dipole style antenna for 433MHz

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Hugues and a few other folk have been looking at using dipoles on 433MHz, I presume this to be the telemetry or RCS radio frequencies used by them. 

I have been playing with some concepts here to try come up with a repeatable implementation with reasonable performance. The main aim is to obtain a good match to the feedline and RX/TX equipment, and to ensure that the dipole radiation pattern is preserved as best possible. The idea is to use a vertically orientated sleeve dipole on the ground as this could be housed in a plastic tube with the radio connector at the base of the tube. On the aircraft such an antenna is rather unwieldy since it is around 400 to 500mm tall, so a conventional dipole coaxed into a V form is suggested. This can be cut into the fuselage and vertical stabiliser foam, or simply taped to the foam on the outside for tests. It could also be taped onto the horizontal stabiliser, one element on each, with the coax down the center of the fuselage, although the signal polarisation to the ground vertical is not optimum this way. If this were the prefered installation, then a similar 'V' could be used on ground.

I have not indicated all the final construction details, such as the tube into which the sleeve dipole could fit, or a substrate onto which the V antenna could be fitted for robustness when used for ground antenna - I can help with further ideas and suggestions in this regard if need be - it is just a little difficult as I do not know what materials may be available to each in his part of the world...

Onto the antennae:

The sleeve dipole resembles a section of coax cable with a 1/4wave section of the braid folded back onto itself, over the insulation jacket. This leaves a 1/4wave section of the center conductor at the top, and then below the 1/4 wave braid.

This forms the dipole and the braid section forms both the one half of the radiator, and a balun to suppress unwanted current from flowing down the outside of the coax shield and degrading the radiation pattern of the antenna.

However, the performance and matching of such a 'folded braid' sleeve dipole is not optimum.  A more optimum sleeve is where the inside diameter of the sleeve is 2 to 4 times the outer diameter of the coax cable, and when around 4 times, the sleeve should be around 0.21 wavelengths long. With this in mind, an antenna was constructed and tuned to see if this would be easily reproducible. The first used the 'folded braid' method, and then a further three employed brass tubes as the sleeve, of 7mm, 9.4mm and 11mm internal diameter. In each case the sleeve length started out at 0.26 wavelength.

In each case the antenna was tuned by trimming the length of the top vertical element till resonant. Then an RF current probe with a spectrum analyser was used to measure the currents flowing in the braid of the coax , a 400mm long section below the sleeve on the antenna. Then the sleeve was trimmed in length by 2mm, and the top element re-trimmed for resonance, and the currents measured again. This process was repeated on for each diameter sleeve tube.

The results indicate that for the thinner diameter tubes ( folded braid being the 'thinnest') the SWR would remain above 1.5:1, and the common mode current on the coax outer shield was still high. As the tube diameter increased, the tube would need shortening, the top element lengthening, and the SWR would improve. Simultaneously, the coax currents began to reduce dramatically. The 9.4mm diameter tube showed excellent results, with SWR of 1.15:1 at 434MHz, a tube length of 145mm,( around 0.21 to 0.22 wavelength,)  a top element length of 182mm, and the coax current was less than 7%  of that measured on the folded braid version. The 11mm tube showed no worthwhile improvement, so the 9.4mm tube is chosen as the optimum.

Dimensions are indicated in the drawings below: 

The construction is as follows - the tube has a small brass nipple , or disc, with a hole in it dimensioned to pas the coax braid. This nipple is soldered into the top of the tube. Inside the tube are three plastic spacers, through which the coax passes, keeping the coax centered in the tube. The end of the coax is tripped of the insulation for about 2mm for the center conductor, and then the braid cut back to expose around 2mm on the insulation of the center conductor. The outer braid insulation is cut back about 6mm and the braid then enters the nipple, with the exposed center conductor protruding. The braid is then soldered to the nipple, and the top element soldered to the protruding coax center conductor.

different sized tubes with top nipples                                                  Nipple and coax prepared

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Nipple soldered to coax and braid                                                       Exploded view

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Plastic spacers fitted

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The following images show SWR and Smith chart data for the final antenna. Note that this antenna is not fitted into any housing or tube. I fitted it into a length of 20mm diameter PVC conduit tubing to measure the effect, and it is quite dramatic. Therefore, if anyone wished to package is so, please let me know what the tubing that you wish to use is - I will try to obtain something similar, and retrim the elements to compensate for the tube shortening effect.

3689597275?profile=originalSWR is 1.15:1 with no plastic overtube.

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SWR is 1.04:1 at 425.35MHz - a big change with the plastic over tube.

SWR at 434MHz is now 1.8:1 with the overtube.

The V Dipole is made with a 1.4 wave section of the same coax serving as a balun to suppress the common mode coax currents. It is seen as the parallel section in the photo at the beginning of this blog.

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here the antenna is taped to a tall block of polystyrene, which does not affect the antenna characteristics, while taking measurements. The balun is clearly visible.

 

   3689597327?profile=originalhis shows how the balun is terminated at the top -

the main coax shield connects to the left element.

The main coax center conductor connects to the shield of the balun and to the right hand element. The other shield end of the balun section ( photo above) connects to the main coax braid at that point.

The length of the balun is the same as one half dipole element, close to a 1.4 wave. Measurements were taken with the current probe with and without the balun - with the balun current levels were almost 22dB less, a significant amount.

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This shows the balun shorted to the main coax at the balun bottom end.

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Here are SWR Plots:

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SWR is 1.01:1 at 434MHz

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In this case the bare copper wire dipole elements was replaced with 'servo lead wire' - wire covered in plastic insulation - the resonant frequency has moved down considerably.

SWR is now 1.07:1 at 422MHz.

You cannot just put any plastic over the wires without re-tuning.

Also, 2mm removed from the wire ends shifts the frequency up by 1MHz - it is sensitive to adjustment! 

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This Smiths Chart plot shows the excellent match of this antenna - no reactance and a good 50 ohm match.

The 50 Ohm match is achieved by the V shaped elements - bending them into the V form lowers the feedpoint impedance in this antenna. The element show very good match for inter element angles between 100 and 115 degrees, typical of V antennae.

The elements can be bent upwards or downwards ( away from or towards the coax feeder), as required by the installation.

Tapping the antenna elements to an EP or polystyrene aircraft frame or wings will have no effect on the element length or SWR. However, placing the elements against any fibreglass or plastic ( PVC, etc) surfaces will affect the tuning detrimentally. The shrink iron-on cover materials used on model planes will have no effect either.

I hope this will be of some use to all - if anyones ends up building any of these ideas, let me know if I can help with re-tuning for you choice of materials and mounting methods - I will try!

Joe

The Nampilot.

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Comments

  • MR60

    Joe will correct me if I'm wrong. The design was made for 433MHz. It shall still work a bit to the left and right of this frequency loosing sensitivity. I understood that the more your center wire is thick, the more "broadband" the antenna will be.

    I have also build the sleeved dipole as you see from images above but could not find a nipple at the hardware store. What I did instead was to solder a copper (could be a small coin) disk with a hole drilled in the middle.

  • Thanks Joe! Today I will be building the V dipole, with some luck I will find a brass tube & nipple at the local hardware store in order to build the other antenna. What frequency are the antennae tuned for? I usually use 5 channels spaced 50KHz apart (right now I use 435.40MHz, 435.45MHz, 435.50MHz, 435.55MHz, and 435.60MHz). Should I change the frequency or channel spacing?

    Thank you!

  • Hello Ignacio,

    No need to connect the coax inner wire at either end - leave it disconnected. You could just use a piece of wire as the 1/4 wave long balun element, but it is simpler to use the same coax as used for the feeder - the velocity factor for the two pieces is then the same, and so is the 1/4 wave length. So just solder the braids at the bottom end, and the coax feedline center to the 1/4 wave section braid at the top end.

    Regards

    Joe

  • Hello Joe! I have a question about the balun's inner wire. Is it conected to something? I believe it shouldn't according to your post, but I can't see what I should do with it, and the pictures seem tho show it is soldered to the outer shield?

  • Thank you for the very comprehensive answer, Joe.

    The diamond quad sounds like a good bet. Much more compact than a yagi.

  • Hi Martin,

    I fear the words you have used in your question do not happily co-exist in the same sentence!  

    The bottom line is that for any antenna to work , it should exhibit resonance at the required frequency. This implies that the antenna element lengths be related in wavelength to the frequency. At 433Mhz a wavelength is around 690mm, this is the basis of length computations for any antenna at this frequency. 

    Antenna , per say, do not have 'gain' as such. They are passive, so cannot amplify. The 'gain' exibited by an antenna is due to any directional characteristics obtained from the antenna construction, and for the sake of simplicity, we will call it 'gain'..This means that the antenna radiation pattern is changed from omnidirectional, and 'focused towards a particular direction. A Yagi does this by using a reflector behind, and directors, in front of the radiating element. Like a lens in front of a torch bulb, with a reflector behind it. Hence its size. a 20 element Yagi at 433 Mhz might give about 18dB gain. To reach say 25dB gain, you may have to double the director element qty..not very practical. To achieve more gain, to would then move to a parabolic dish antenna - at the correct dimensions this could achieve 30dB gain quite easily, but the dish would be around 6 to 8 meters diameter..

    A circular polarized antenna could be made , the helical antenna, easy to make. a 12dB gain version would be about 1.5meter long, 234mm diameter, with a (large) reflector, 450mm diameter, at the rear.

    The Yagi can be reduced in size, albeit only the element lengths, by inductively loading the element ( inserting a series inductor in each element 1/4wave section) The measurement of resonance is critical to ensure the correct inductor values. The inter element spacing does not really change much, so Yagi length will remain much the same, not much gained there! However, the inductors in each element are lossy, and the shortened element length exibit some capture area loss, so the antenna overall gain is reduced. No free lunches..

    So , I am afraid, there is no simple answer to your question. Antenna gain comes with mechanical structure, and size follows.

    However, it also depends on what you consider 'high gain'  If 6 to 8dB is acceptable, maybe a Diamond Quad over a ground plane? This would be a reflector size of about 800mm x 600mm, and the diamond would be approx 650mm long, x 400mm wide, aboyt 150mm above the ground plane. Still big..

    Sorry, no simple solution..

    Regards Joe

  • Hi Joe,

    Do you have any suggestions for a compact high gain 433 MHz directional antenna?

    The yagi I'm currently using is just too big.

  • MR60

    Thx a lot Joe for your advices, I appreciate it ! I will post on this blog a picture of how I think I would locate the dipole above the plastic grey cover (indeed electronics is underneath), so you can tell me what you think.

  • Hello Hugues,

    I presume all the electronic and batteries are inside the grey cover. In that case the antenna really needs to be above or below it, else those items will shield the antenna from the ground station in that direction. To be above, the sleeve dipole would be fine, or any reasonable 1/2 wave dipole, above the grey cover.

    You could also suspend a 1/2wave dipole downwards, between two of the landing gear legs, with some shielding in certain directions from the landing gear and the gimbal. Ideally, above is better, except for when the craft is located directly above you and high up..

    Since the arms are also aluminium, you do not have much choice but to be above the whole structure. If the arms were fibreglass/PVC, etc, you could place the V dipole horizontally between two arms, with each V half running along an arm...

    Regards

    Joe

  • Hi there Hugues,

    I apologize for the long delay - its a problem with these blogs - they fall of the list and then unless you keep going back to them, things get lost. Sorry about that. The changes you have made will not have an effect worth worrying about. The resonant frequency will have shifted slightly downwards, but since the amount you changed the dimension by is so small, the effect can be ignored. You will need some instruments to measure with if you want to 'perfect' it, but as it stands you should get good performance.

    To strengthen the 2mm wire support - take a short length of plastic tube, about 20mm long, with at least a 1mm wall thickness ( PVC is ok) that fits snugly over your 12mm copper lower tube - let the plastic tube slide 10mm over the 12mm copper tube, with some epoxy glue in between. let the glue set a little, so the plastic tube is fixed in place. Then fill the open end with epoxy glue - this will hold the wire in place, and keep the soldered joint from flexing. The epoxy is slightly lossy at this frequency, but the amount in contact with the copper tube and wire is very small - the losses will not exceed maybe 0.1dB....

    Regards

    Joe

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