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I've been working on a new helicopter platform the last few months. Based on an MSH Protos heli which I chose because it's an extremely light weight platform, weighing in at only ~1200g without battery. It has a full belt drive which I much prefer to gears as it's quieter, lower vibration and more reliable. I've had a few problems with it because the belt drive makes a really awesome Van deGraaf generator... not a good thing on a UAV. But I solved that, and am conducting test flights now.


The flight controller is a modified PX4v1. I replaced the switching regulator with a MIC29300, so that I can run it on 2S direct with the servos. Main motor power is 4S 5000, typically this heli would run on 6S 3300. Using the MSH stretch kit and 465mm Spinblade Asymmetric blades. In otherwise standard form, this heli flew for 17 minutes on an old crusty battery, in -10C temperatures.

I have now added a subframe to hold an extra battery, FPV gear with a camera in the nose, and a vibration damped NADIR camera mount to be used for aerial mapping. The idea is to develop a mapping UAV that is superior to a multirotor, offering a valid alternative to a fixed wing for short to medium range missions. The VTOL capabilities would eliminate all the nastiness of catapults, and controlled-crash landings with onboard cameras in rugged areas.  Even the price is attractive at about $400 for the basic kit with motor and ESC (no servos).

Specifications show the advantage of a heli platform. This machine has an AUW including the batteries and camera of only ~3kg. It is 80m long, and about 15cm wide not including the extended legs, and 30cm high. The blades fold for easy transport, without requiring any lose wires or vibration-prone electrical connectors as a folding multirotor does. It actually looks much bigger on the table than it really is. This seems to be very good compared to multirotors I've seen with the same performance. (payload and duration)

Vibrations are always a problem with helis, but manageable with the right design and construction techniques.

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Arducopter really makes helis worthwhile. You could buy two entire heli systems including a Tx for the price of a single DJI Ace One non-waypoint controller.  Or 7 for the cost of a single Ace One waypoint enabled controller.  I strongly prefer the PX4 controller over the APM and Pixhawk, because it offers 32-bit performance in a small package that is easier to mount in a heli frame.

So does it work? I took it up for it's first photo tests yesterday, and it worked beautifully. Better than 80% photos are usable. It flies for 20 minutes in a hover with old, cold batteries (-5C). I'm hoping for closer to 30 minutes while actually moving (helis are more efficient moving than hovering), in warmer weather with new batteries.  It should have an easy cruising speed of 15 m/s with little or no reduction in flight time.  At 20 minutes, this would offer an 18km range, and 27 if it can do 30 minutes.  If you wanted to do FPV and not mapping, you could configure it with a 3rd battery in place of the SX260 and fly for... 30-45 minutes, and a range of up to 36km.  Top airspeed is still TBD, but probably 20-25 m/s.  

Wind penetration and stability is excellent compared to both multirotors and fixed-wing.  You could do a mapping mission in winds up to 40 km/h with little effect on stability or duration.

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If the success continues, I'm going to consider building a large gasser heli.  This would allow flight times up to 2 hours, or payloads on the order of 10 lbs for 30 minutes.  So you could map large areas, or even perform light duty spraying operations.  I'm thinking about local application of a herbicide for things like Giant Hogweed elimination, that sort of thing. Such a large heli does pose significant danger and should only be used in industrial, agricultural or remote areas.

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Comments

  • Jim, if you wanted actual hovering Power in watts, then yes, you'd need voltage too.  But, all-else being equal (ie: same batteries, same state of charge) then amps will still give us pretty decent info.

    Also, it's not entirely clear to me... typically battery capacity are rated by amps-time, not power-time.  And most flight control systems also measure amps-time to determine battery state, rather than power-time.  I'm really not sure which is more accurate to determine how long you can fly. 

    So, I will just stick with conventional wisdom for now.  And the real proof will simply be in all-else-equal flying time.

  • Won't you need both voltage and current sensors? As the voltage drops the current will go up to maintain hover.

    Maybe it won't matter if it's done on quick successive flights.

  • That will work.

    Regards

    David R. Boulanger

  • This really needs to be approached scientifically.  I plan to put on a current monitor, and change nothing but the blades, see what happens in an Alt Hold hover.

  • I'm using Align ds 610 and 615 servos.  No problems, aluminum case and a street price of about $60 - $70.  They do sing a lot at idle.  I don't know if this is normal for digital servos.  I am planning on flying Wednesday and maybe I will bring my old set of 520mm Align blades to switch and compare.  Not sure what a good test would be.  Maybe fly around for the first 6 or 7 minutes and the hover until the low voltage shut off starts to kick in with a 5 amp pack?  At 9 pounds and a headspeed of around 1550 - 1600 I'm not sure what to expect out of symmetrical 520 blades that I used when I was 1 1/2 pounds lighter and ran a headspeed about 600 rpm faster.

    Regards

    David R. Boulanger 

  • Yeah, they have a nasty sharp leading edge.  It's like there's a parting line in the mold or something.  The entire length of the blade has a ~2mm wide band on the leading edge that is flat, and has a sharp transition into the rounded portion. I didn't think it was a big deal until somebody pointed it out to me.

  • I know this sounds terrible to do but if you clean the blades thoroughly, then hover in a dusty area you will see exactly what the airflow looks like over the blades including any flow separation. Microscopic specks can detach laminar flow. Almost all blades have some laminar flow. Sharp edges on the first 10% of chord are a definite no no.

  • Also, I should point out, I'm starting to doubt the efficiency of the Asymmetric blades.  

    There's no question that reduced headspeed increases flight times.  And, using longer blades should as well.  But I've never done an "all else being equal" test of the asym blades vs. standard blades.  I'm going to do that.

    But what really makes me question them, is this.  So last week as I mentioned, I put a 2700kV motor in my 450 heli, running on 3S, so the headspeed is quite a bit reduced.  At the same time, I put on 350mm Asym blades.  Flight time jumped to about 10 minutes.  I was actually expecting more than that, as previously I was flying 7 minutes on a standard setup with normal head speed and 325mm blades.

    Anyway, I broke the asym blades while flight testing.  So I had to put on 325mm standard blades again.  Just cheap ~$15 CF blades from HK.  Well, didn't I gain another minute of flight time!  There's no question the heli has less lift, but I'm not yet sure if that's due to the reduced blade length, or the profile.  It's completely possible that the Asym blades do return much more lift, all else being equal, but do so at the expense of extra drag.

    The reasons are complicated.  But right off the bat, the Spinblade Asymetrics are suffering because they have a flat spot with sharp edges, right on the leading edge.  Apparently this causes the airflow to go turbulent right away.

  • I've been using the Lontair Hall Sensor servos, marketed as Hobby King Magnetic Induction.  Generally they've been pretty good.  I like that they don't use a pot.  I've got a number of the brushed ones in servos for quite a while, been through many crashes, and they seem to hold up well.  I did have one fail on my tail.  But I believe it was due to exposure to EXTREME vibration.  The post mortem showed that the brushes in the motor had failed.  I believe it was due to the vibration causing the brushes to bounce off the commutator, thus arcing until they melted.  Either that, or the vibration caused the gyro to output crazy signals which could have caused excessive current that melted the brushes.

    I've now bought an MI BL brushless servo for the tail and am trying it out.  I was disappointed with it because the top bearing has excessive slop, allowing a lot of servo arm movement.  The pocket for the bearing is just too big, allowing the bearing to move around.  I ended up gluing the bearing in and it's OK now, but I'm not impressed.  The servo was purchased almost a year ago, maybe they've fixed the problem, but at $80/each, I haven't been inclined to buy another just to find out, with a virtual no-return policy at HK.

    I would really like to have servos with an all-aluminum case.  I strongly believe in eliminating slop in the linkage, and this would be a key factor in that.

  • Hey guys ..

    i started arainging my shopping list for the 550 helicopter

    Robert noted :

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24687__HK_550TT_Flybarle...

    can any of you guys with experience .. help pointing out the best motor / servos / stuff ? ..

    i will go with go pro and bl gimbal of goodluckbuy:

    http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dji-phantom-brushless-gimbal-camera-moun...

    and hope for up to 20~30 minutes if possible ( as you all like to do :) )

    thanks.

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