On this week's episode of MyGeekShow we flew the Raptor and Nova, at the same time! The Nova flew great and has totally restored our faith in the "traditional" airframe setup. The Raptor flew good as well, however the prop fell off and got lost in the tall grass somewhere. How do you prevent that from happening?
Tell us what you think of the new format!
-Trent & Nick
Produced by Trent & Nick in Arkansas, USA
Main Camera: Panasonic HDC-TM900K
Video Editing: iMovie
--Raptor--
Battery: 20C 2.2Ah Sky http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl2200-3s1p-20c-3333.html
Servos: T-Pro 9G http://www.hobbypartz.com/topromisesg9.html
Motor: Optima 450 2220-1800KV
http://www.hobbypartz.com/75m55-optima450-2220-1800kv-2.html
ESC: Exceed RC Proton 30A http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e04-proton-30a.html
Prop: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZL07
--Nova--
Battery: http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl4400-3s1p-30c-3333.htmlidProduct=6306
Servos: http://www.hobbypartz.com/topromisesg9.html
Motor: http://www.hobbypartz.com/75m42-optima450-2220-950kv.html
ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=13429
Prop: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=5437
Comments
Very cool guys... your responses are very helpful. I'll have to take a closer look at our prop strategy.
Oh, you might buy some time with the hub by putting one (1) layer of scotch tape around the shaft of the motor.
That *might* get you through until the hub is replaced if, indeed, the hub inside diameter has changed and can no longer clamp the shaft.
I guess we would really need to see the spacing between the plates of the hub to know if it is totally closed.
The limiting part is the prop pivot sections. If they are closed well and the hub is completely closed, then the shaft cannot be clamped more. The shaft diameter will have to be increased.
Regarding the slipping prop.. If the sides of the prop hub are completely closed and it still slips off the shaft of the motor I suspect the prop hub has been damaged or worn out.
The motor shaft is clamped by the sections in yellow. Even though the plastic is tough, it is subject to compression deformation and off angle impact deformation. In short, I would upgrade to a metal hub of some sort.
I have a folding prop set on my bench that uses an aluminum hub and set screw that presses on the motor shaft. It usually broke props and never came off a motor. The down side to this type of prop hub is minor damage to the motor shaft by the set screw.
Think of the plastic hub as a mechanical fuse. It is better to replace the hub on a somewhat regular basis than the entire motor. You should have a couple of these in your flight kit but it seems pricey ($4.29) for a couple of pieces of molded plastic and some hardware.
I bet a CNC machined, high strength aluminum hub would be close to $10.
Hello,
To save the legs of your friend I suggest you this DIY:http://www.bungymania.com/tirbungy/index.html
if you give me your email address you can watch unedemo be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb8Q9FlYR8A
good flight