Instructions for using ArduPilot 2.x in the field:
ArduPilot 2.1 and above (with Z sensor). This version of the software auto-calibrates the IR sensors. The only thing you need to do at the field is to record the "home" GPS position in EEPROM memory, which will not be erased when you reset or power down the board. To do so, follow these instructions:- Ensure that the autopilot is in manual mode (channel five toggle off) and GPS is connected
- Place a jumper cap on pins D6 and D7 (you can also connect a regular RC power switch to those pins if you want to control the autopilot from outside of the aircraft). Ensure that your aileron and elevator sticks are in the center position, and power on the board.
- The yellow status LED will blink for a few seconds as the autopilot programs the GPS for binary mode. Then the blue lock GPS will blink rapidly, which means the autopilot is waiting for GPS lock. You can now remove the jumper (or return the switch to the normal position)
- When the autopilot has established a GPS lock it will move the rudder. Note that ArduPilot puts the EM406 into binary mode, which disables the red LED on that module, so it will not blink.
- You’re now ready to fly! Press the reset button on the ArduPilot board to restart it (your calibration settings are saved in permanent memory and will not be erased).
- ArduPilot 2.0 supports two autonomous modes: waypoint and return-to-launch (RTL). If you have a three-position toggle switch or a proportional dial on your RC transmitter, the middle position is Waypoint Mode and the up (or full clockwise) position is RTL Mode. These can be changed in the software if desired. The Mode LED on the ArduPilot board will light up with it is in Waypoint Mode.
- To use fly-by-wire mode (just stabilization, like the FMA Co-Pilot), simply disconnect the GPS. ArduPilot also automatically switches into stabilazation mode if it ever loses GPS lock.
- Ensure that the autopilot is in manual mode (channel five toggle off) and GPS is connected
- Place a jumper cap on pins D6 and D7 (you can also connect a regular RC power switch to those pins if you want to control the autopilot from outside of the aircraft). Ensure that your aileron and elevator sticks are in the center position, and power on the board.
- The yellow status LED will blink for a few seconds as the autopilot programs the GPS for binary mode. Then the blue lock GPS will blink rapidly, which means the autopilot is waiting for GPS lock. You can now remove the jumper (or return the switch to the normal position)
- When the autopilot has established a GPS lock it will move the rudder. Note that ArduPilot puts the EM406 into binary mode, which disables the red LED on that module, so it will not blink.
- Holding the aircraft without obscuring the thermopile sensor, point the nose at the ground. Switch the autopilot on with your RC toggle switch. The elevator will move, signaling that the sensor has been calibrated.
- You’re now ready to fly! Switch the aircraft back into manual mode for launch, and press the reset button on the ArduPilot board to restart it (your calibration settings are saved in permanent memory and will not be erased).
- ArduPilot 2.0 supports two autonomous modes: waypoint and return-to-launch (RTL). If you have a three-position toggle switch or a proportional dial on your RC transmitter, the middle position is Waypoint Mode and the up (or full clockwise) position is RTL Mode. These can be changed in the software if desired. The Mode LED on the ArduPilot board will light up with it is in Waypoint Mode.
- To use fly-by-wire mode (just stabilization, like the FMA Co-Pilot), simply disconnect the GPS. ArduPilot also automatically switches into stabilazation mode if it ever loses GPS lock.
Comments
The MODE light also seems to be ok - it goes on/off as expected with 3-pos switch on Tx.
Is it ok to remove jumper _whilst_ the blue light is flashing? Instructions _are_ clear, but I read something in another comment somewhere on here, that made me want to question it.
Were you able to load the 2.0 code fine?
The instructions say you can remove the jumper after step three. Is there something unclear about them?
Still getting what seems to be a servo frenzy when Autopilot is off however (I am using 3-position flap switch)
The IR calibration process is a bit cloudy for me, i'm not sure whether I should be removing the jumper before or after pointing the nose at the ground. It sounds like I should be doing it before, which is what I am doing.
There doesn't seem to be any response when I tilt about XY axis. I tested indoors using the test program and the serial output looked ok to me.
Yes, I can see the backwards cables. Again, the black/brown wires are always on the outside. Double check your wiring and tell me how it goes.
Got elevator control but no rudder yet.
Not the best picture!
Is there a simple way to check control is being passed through? I'd like to plug in, e.g. one servo and check it works, then plug things in one by one until it breaks!
Old proverb say: If it isn't broken, fix it until it is!
Thanks
Yes, that sounds very wrong. In particular it's hard to imagine any scenario where your standard RC control doesn't work. Can you take a photo of your board, with everything connected, and upload it here? I can at least check to see if something's off.
My rudder and elevator servos go into a state of Frenzy for a few seconds and then nothing.
Also, from my Tx - I cannot move any surfaces at all, at any stage of the process. So I'm guessing I've either done some very dodgy soldering or I need to try something else!
You might be happier getting a Z sensor. We won't be supporting XY only anymore, so if you want to follow the project you'll need one sooner or later. (This is true for all other thermopile-based autopilots, such as AttoPilot and Paparazzi, too)
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