Any chance to save my 5.8 TX ?

jaelcio almeida lima verde January 2, 2015 at 9:11am

my also burned today, someone already tested this fix, can confirm if it works?

IMG_20150102_095914.jpg

https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3701904818?profile=original

Morli December 14, 2014 at 5:51pm

Beware of the fact that many of Chinese made stuff follow no color coding, for some funny reason they use Red as negative in my cases. Many of their wiring harness has wrong color wire used in polarity, so do not assume red to be positive.

lordgotham December 14, 2014 at 1:32am

Thanks everybody :0)
Sometimes I see someone have repaired this boscam it's so good and I'm happy to ear that

Have a good day....
My boscam works always...

Bllama > lordgotham December 14, 2014 at 1:11pm

I been using my repaired one since last year with no issues, but I use them as relay for my ground stations

Pinak Oza December 13, 2014 at 2:32pm

Hi, I have 2 Boscam 200mw Txs with same (burnt fuse!) problem. I followed the method suggested my LordGotham, but it then led to melting of 12V power cable coming from 3S Lipo. Fortunately the JST plug at battery end melted immediately and that disconnected the battery from Tx. Some melting is also seen at Tx end of the power cable.

Can anyone suggest me what did I do wrong? Here is the picture of my soldering and bypassing work done on one of the Txs. Now I am afraid to do the same on the other one! Please help...

fr_134.jpg

Pinak Oza > Pinak Oza December 13, 2014 at 7:10pm

Hi, later on I realized that the 5P Molex connector that I used had reversed positive and negative output wires! Black Negative should be the last outer one and positive next to it inside, but here on connector last wire was red and one inside was black leading to all short-circuits! Beware of such Molex connectors. This connector also fried my Mobius camera to death :-(.

But fortunately both my Tx got working again. Thanks to LordGotham for showing the technique.

Martin May 26, 2014 at 3:28am

If it's of any help now, this is what I've learned about this subject.

Referring to the image I attached.

L1 is an inductor (AKA 'choke') and is around 10uH and has a resistance of around 0.5ohms.

R1 is a 'link' resistor of close to 0ohms. Swapping the link resistor to the vacant pads marked with an arrow will connect the DC output to the 5V regulator of the TS330 (giving 5V for a CMOS camera).

D1 is a Schottky diode, probably about 1 Amp size.

C1 is a vacant pad for a filter capacitor if required.

I accidentally shorted my 12V output to ground and burned the L1 inductor too like you guys, hence I found this thread.

I replaced it with a same sized SMD inductor scavenged from an old defunct PC network card, a smaller L value but good enough for now (R value was lower than original too).

I added a 10uF 16V SMD capacitor on C1 pads for the hell of it too. R1 was still OK when measured.

Cheers,

Martin

Bllama > Martin May 27, 2014 at 9:09pm

Thanks!!

lordgotham June 20, 2013 at 7:15am

two cable

the red is for 12v for the camera

and the other cable is to repared the burst component

so i try mine is ok

but now there are no protection...... :o( be carrefull

mine work prefectly

i hope you understand me

Sunday Shi > lordgotham May 19, 2014 at 9:12am

I fried my Boscam 5.8g 200mW (from HobbyKing) today when trying to wire it to a crappy OSD that came with no instruction. A capacitor/resistor/inductor smoked, destroyed a pad, and it now sends no video. I hope it can be fixed with @lordgotham 's method.

Could you confirm the following is the right wiring? Thanks!

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Any chance to save my 5.8 TX ?

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