Hi all.
I could really use some help trying to figure out if Arducopter 2.6 is ever going to work for me.
I have had a total of 4 units 2x genuine 3DR APMs and 2 generic arducopter.
2 buddies also have 1 unit each.
We all have major issues with all units.
to cut a long story short. We can have 3x perfect return to launches, then the the 4th one will result in a toiletbowl effect. Just randomness like that.
I've given up on using ANY failsafe as APM is just too unreliable.
That was a week ago, now things have gotten much worse.
Even stabalize mode does not work. If the quad makes it off the ground it will sometimes dart off in one direction, other times it just falls out of the sky The quad also "pulses"
Some times the quad will just stop responding to the controls and has to be knocked out of the sky to stop it from flying.
Othertimes the unit will just disarm on takeoff.
Have tried multiple recievers, boards etc, NOTHING fixes these issues. Both my buddies have given up on their board and now fly perfectly with another (closed source) autopilot. I would like to get this going correctly but the APM just seems so unstable.
I have attached some logs in case that helps.
Please help!
Replies
Just an update. I am being offered a choice? A refund, or the company is offering to send me replacement. (Another "flight control board"). I'm thinking about taking refund and ordering a different "board"? But which one?
Joe,
Please check your device manager (if your using windows) and look for any "other devices" or devices without drivers. You need the FTDI usb to serial driver which should be an easy download. All of these devices are really serial devices with a USB converter chip. That is why we still talk COM ports (or ttyUSBx in the case of linux)
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Thank you everyone for the replies so far.
I'm building a new copter from ground up. New motors, new frame, ESCS, the lot. I suspect my crappy motors (which are the thin spindle type) have become bent and causing vibrations which, from what I'm reading is really bad.
I am testing every step of the way and will post the flight logs once done to see if there are any inprovements to make.
As I've said, the APM system would be excellent once I can get a consistent reliable setup, its just a little frustrating after 5 or so great flights to then see '00s of dollars fall out of the sky :)
One last question, Since I'm powering the APM from the voltage regulator, Should I cut the red/black wires on the ESCs to prevent their power reaching the APM? is there any basis for doing this?
Shane.
Thanks for the information Shane! But I am leery about loading anything onto my pc from other websites, unless others have used and recommend the site. Do you have any recommendations?
Shane,
"voltage regulator" means you're using a power module (also known as PM)? If you're not then I strongly recommend getting one! They come with all genuine 3DR APMs and Pixhawk and there's a very good reason for that, it's a very important part of the system and they save far far more time and money in support calls than they cost.
If you are using a PM and the JP1 jumper is removed (which it should be by default) then there's no need to cut the red/black wires. I'm pretty sure all of this info is documented on the wiki.
Shane, it is always good practice to just plug the signal wires to the APM. This will simplify wiring connections. Plugging the black wires may create ground loops and plugging the red wires from ESC's may cause noise and unstable supply. If you still want to connect the 3 wires, just make sure your ESC's are linear.
>>>>>> it is always good practice to just plug the signal wires to the APM. This will simplify wiring connections. Plugging the black wires may create ground loops and plugging the red wires from ESC's may cause noise and unstable supply.
I started to write NO NO NO NO NO NO NO but I see Leonard has already done so.
You must have a signal return path and the best way is by connecting the ground wire on the ESC.
It will work some of the time with just the Signal wire connected but it won't work all of the time will all ESCs.
NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Don't anybody do this!!!!!!!!!!
You MUST connect both the signal and the ground wire of each ESC!!! You don't need to connect the red power wire.
Leonard,
I completely agree with you here and that's what I do, but I'm curious why it wouldn't work with just the signal wire? I ask because the system should all have a common ground. With the ground of the ESC battery connection connected to the frame. The ground from the receiver/APM should also be connected to the same ground so in theory, shouldn't it be fine connecting just the signal wire?
I personally don't recommend that because I think it's better practice to connect them but is there something I'm missing?
Hi Healthyfatboy,
It isn't that it won't work without the ground wire, it is that may not work. We have had one person on these forums who was having trouble that turned out to be precisely this.
You need a ground return path for current based signals, by including the ground wire you are insuring you have a nice low impedance ground for the signal current to flow back on. If you don't have this ground you must hope that the ground back through the power lead, into the power module then back up to the apm or pixhawk is low enough impedance to not interfere with your signal.
So 9 out of 10 (made those numbers up) people may have no problem at all, but you don't want to be number 10.
Ground loops: I don't believe we need to worry about ground loops in this application.
Hi OwlPic,
Sorry but electro-magnetics being my profession and the general area of my Phd I have to correct you on your shortwave signal comment. Shortwave is just like any other electromagnetic wave and does not require a ground return path when radiating into, or receiving from, free space (aka around the earth).
Also the shielded cable is depends heavily on the properties of the signal you are attempting to shield and what you are trying to shield it from. People often use the sound bite "don't connect the shield - ground loops bad" but it is very rarely the case unless the wiring has some serious issues.
Thanks for confirming what I thought. Good to know I've been setting my stuff up so I potentially have less issues!
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